Build an XL Charcuterie Board (perfect for Large Get Togethers!)

I've built an extra large charcuterie board to be used for large gatherings/family functions. My wife and I recently built a new kitchen (moved the kitchen to the back of the house); so I built this XL charcuterie board to complement the new kitchen.

1. Live Edge Board 48” L x 12” Wide x 1” Thick (Redwood)
2. Cutting Board Oil – Walrus Oil
3. Board Wax - Walrus Oil
4. Swoosh Handle Template
5. Corner Radius Router Template
6. Double sided tape
7. Dust Mask
8. Shop Vac / Vaccum
9. Planer
10. Dual-Bevel Sliding Mitre Saw
11. Jig Saw
12. Router
13. Small router Table
14. 1 1/2" Flush Trim Router Bit
15. ¼” round over router bit
16. Drill Press 
17. Palm Sander
18. Sandpaper (100, 120,150,180, and 220 grit)
19. Painter's Triangles
20. Power Drill and buffing pad

I started with a 12" x 48" x 1" Thick live edge board and cut it down to 32" ( 24" for the length of the board surface and 8" for the handle) using the miter saw. I then planed the board from 1" thickness to 7/8" thickness on my planer. This is optional, as the board was already flattened by the supplier.

Note: Please use the appropriate safety PPE; a Dust Mask (N95) and Safety Glasses ( I use a face shield) when dealing with exotic hardwoods; you shouldn't inhale the dust from cutting/planing/routing/sanding exotic hardwoods. I hook up a portable dust extractor to whatever machine I'm working on , and have the shop vacuum handy as well. I also have a 1200 CFM Air Cleaner which I run while working in the garage/shop and put it on a timer for an extra hour when I'm done to circulate and clean the air of any dust.

1. First I traced the handle onto the board with the acrylic template.
2. I then cut the hole on the drill press using a 30mm Forstner Bit as this was the same size of the hole in the template.
3. I then cut just a couple of millimetres outside of the traced handle line with the jigsaw.
4. I taped the handle template onto the board with double sided tape.
5. I set up the router in the router table with the 1 1/2" spiral flush trim router bit, the bearing aligns with the template affixed to the top of the wood. I took the guide off the back of the router table to allow me to maneuver the large board.
6. Important tip: I am routing using a router table so I trimmed the excess wood to the template moving the board cut Clockwise. ( If I was routing with a trim router by hand the cut would go counter-clockwise).

1. I rounded the corners using a Corner Radius Router Template, which I attached to the board with double -sided tape.
2. Once again I used the router table with the 1 1/2" spiral flush trim router bit, moving the board Clockwise.
3. I then switched out the router bit to a ¼” round over router bit around the outside of the board to smooth the edges, flipped the board over and did the other side.
4. I also routed the inside of the hole on the handle to smooth out the edges as well: Important TIP: when routing an inside edge you go the opposite direction... i.e. I am using a router table so I route the inner edge Counter-Clockwise ( Note that I routed the outer edge using a Router Table going Clockwise above). This will prevent any tear-out.
5. Because I am using a live edge piece and the sides were not 100" square, i preferred the look that way, I used a palm sander to smooth any edges not fully smoothed out by the router.

There were a few pin holes on the back of the board; I decided to fill them with StarBond Med CA Glue; I used the Clear for the lighter section of the board and the dark Brown for the darker section of the board. This literally take about 20 seconds. Fill the pin hole with CA Glue, spay on the accelerator, wait a few seconds and sand with 100 grit sandpaper.

Next I sanded the board with the various grits of sandpaper 100, 120,150,180, and finally 220 grit. I sprayed water on the board to completely wet the board. This will raise the grain of the board. I came back an hour later and the board was completely dry, and lightly sanded again with 220 to remove the raised grain of the board.

This is the fun part. I like to add a customized coin to my projects. I drilled a hole with a 25 millimetre forstner bit and glued the coin in with StarBond CA glue.

1. I lathered the board top and bottom with Walrus Oil cutting board oil, and placed on painter's triangles to dry
2. I let the board sit overnight and wiped off any excess residue of oil
3. I then applied Walrus Oil Board Wax and buffed the board using a power drill and buffing pad. ( This step could be done by hand using the board wax and blue shop disposable towels.)

1. Now it's time to relax and invite guests over. Load up your custom charcuterie board with lots of cheeses, meats, etc, ...and enjoy!