Build a MikroBench From Two Stair Treads

What is a MikroBench

Video: What is a MikroBench

A MikroBench is a portable but very powerful woodworking Workstation. The fully functional version contains a large number of cavities created via CNC specifically for performing Multi-Board Glue-Ups and Knock-Down Joinery Applications. A simplified version, called the BaseStation, does not contain cavities therefore does not require a CNC, but is still a very effective portable workstation for woodworking, other hobbies or a stand-up computer.

UPDATE: JUNE 13, 2022

This Instructable was published in March of 2022. In an effort to continually improve the MikroBench and make it easier to build for more woodworkers I am working on new prototypes. One of those was completed on June 12, 2022 eliminating the 3rd Tray and several other modifications. Although there will be additional revisions coming soon the video below provides a tour of the 3D drawings and then an in-shop view of the assembled and loaded MikroBench:

Video: MikroBench Revised Prototype As of June 13, 2022

Why I Needed a MikroBench

We spend 3-4 months each year RV camping. Wherever we go I Google "Reclaimed Wood Near Me", pick up unique pieces and then build stuff which usually involves multi-board glue-ups. I take with me woodworking power tools including an 18V Miter Saw, 18V Table Saw, routers, drivers, impacts and even a 110v drillpress. The problem had always been the lack of any consistent way to mount those tools, to perform glue-ups and to hold pieces while working the wood.

Video: Why I Want MikroBenches for My Home Workshop

It was also time to build a new workbench for my home workshop. Initially I planned to build a solid hardwood monster of a bench but wondered if one or more small, portable benches could solve for both. After a year of prototyping all I can tell ya is that "I wish I would have had MikroBenches when working wood for a living!" What I saved in the time and materials it would have taken to build a monster workbench more than offset the price paid to purchase the CNC Router to build MikroBenches.

Multi-Board Project Capabilities

The types of multi-board glue-ups a MikroBench is capable of include:

• Vertical Component Glue-Ups
• Small legs for end tables and sofa servers
• Posts for rustic interior and exterior railings
• Heavy-duty legs for workbenches, farm-style dining tables and rustic beds
• Tall posts for bunk beds and dorm-room lofts using 2 MikroBenches
• Posts for timber-frame structures using 3 or more MikroBenches
• Triple-laminated posts for Post-Frame structures using 3 or more MikroBenches
• Horizontal and Diagonal Component Glue-Ups
• Short stretchers and rails for dining and small tables
• Large table stretchers and bed rails using 2 MikroBenches
• Stair rails and railings using 3 or more MikroBenches
• Triple-laminated rafters and joists using 3 or more MikroBenches
• Flat Surface Glue-Ups:
• Small end table and sofa server tops
• Cabinet door fronts using 24" or 36" R&R Clamps
• Coffee table tops using 36" or 48" R&R Clamps and 2 or more MikroBenches

Joinery Capabilities

The "cavities" routed in a MikroBench place the tools for accurately marking, routing, drilling and installing both permanent and knock-down joinery mortises and hardware. The CNC routed layout for this build of a MikroBench includes cavities for the following joinery types:

• Permanent Joinery Methods
• Screw Joinery specifically GRK RSS and Multi-Use Fasteners
• Adhesive Joinery including Conventional and Gorilla Glue
• Spline Joinery
• Knock-Down and Semi-Knock-Down Joinery
• Loose-Pin Hinge Joinery
• Threaded Insert Joinery
• Threaded Tapped Wood Joinery
• Threaded Synthetic Tenon Joinery
• Threaded Metal Tenon Joinery

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Welcome to my first Instructable! Hope you find this helpful!

Wood Used to Build this MikroBench

The MikroBench is intended to be a workhorse. It needed to be constructed of materials that can take a beating; to support drillpresses, bandsaws, clamps; and to be tossed in the bed of a pickup truck. The intended functions and abuse were a primary consideration for Material but I still wanted it to look good. Another consideration was how much Time do I want to spend on each build.

Stair Treads! Really?

Video: Stair Treads for Material

Yep! Stair Treads, a very well kept secret!. The reasons I choose Stair Treads as the Material for this Instructable Version of the MikroBench include:

1. The math works perfect. If you check out the attached "CutLists" you will see that just one crosscut and one rip from Tread #1 gets us the top of TRAY1 and then two rips get us our FRONT and BACK.
2. A few more cuts and rips on Tread #2 and we have our SPREADERS, RISERS, VICE, TRAY2 AND TRAY3.
3. The treads are an absolute perfect 1' thickness so there is no jointering or planing saving huge amounts of time and emptying of dust bags!
4. This 1" thickness provides a margin of error when applying spline joinery and screws into the end-grain or edge of the boards.
5. The treads are manufactured from 4-board glue-ups. Because of this they are very flat and extremely stable.
6. All of the oak treads and some of the pine have a matching species laminate about 1/16" thick on both top and bottom so the glue joints of the 4 boards are hidden and the surfaces show well after varnishing.
7. The treads are very affordable with the 11 1/2" x 48" pine selling at about $10/each ($2.50/bd ft) and the oak about $25/each ($6.25/bd ft).
8. Stair treads are typically in-stock or available for immediate shipping online at the big-box and local lumber yards

For this Instructable build of the MikroBench I purchased two oak stair treads in February of 2022 from inventory at a Home Depot store near Green Bay, WI for $25/each. As we travel I see the same oak stair treads at Home Depot stores ranging as high as $36. In Birmingham, AL in March of 2022 the treads were $32. For those not ready to bite the oak bullet there are also the pine versions for about $10/each.

Tools For This Project

Tools I Used For Building the BaseStation (without cavities)

• 12" DeWalt Sliding Compound Miter Saw
• 10" SawStop Tablesaw with guard and riving knives in place
• 10" Rikon Bandsaw w/1/4 blade but a jigsaw will do
• A Jet Shaper was used but a hand-held router will do
• Several R&R Clamps for Glue-Ups
• Other typical woodworking tools such as 18v drivers, rulers, etc.
• A prototype MikroBench but a typical vice will do

Tools I Used to Add the Glue-Up and Joinery Cavities

• SketchUp Pro
• Vcarve software for creating CNC Toolpaths
• NextWave Piranha XL CNC Router and Piranha FX Router
• Custom-Built bed and hold-downs for the CNC Router Tables
• Two 18v palm routers one loaded with a mini-roundover and one with a 1/4" roundover

Joinery Hardware For This Project

• GRK Fasteners
• DIY Wood Splines
• Gorilla Glue
• Glue brushes with Gorilla-tolerant bristles
• LaserCut Threaded Metal Tenons
• 5/16" Socket Head and Hex Head Machine Bolts

Tools and Functions Integrations

Video: Tools On Table Ready to Load On MikroBench

Video: Tools That Were On Table Loaded on MikroBench

The first step was to calculate the layout on the surface of each TRAY for all of the Tools and Functions I typically use when performing multi-board glue-ups and knock-down joinery operations. As the the list got larger it became obvious the only way to get the level of accuracy needed to squeeze all of those cavities on very limited surfaces was to do it on a CNC.

I started by using SketchUp to place each Tool and Function on 2D surfaces. This method of using 2D will come in handy later when I use Vcarve to create the Toolpaths for the CNC. After a year's worth of drawing then prototyping then back to drawing and repeating that process most every Tool and Function now has its place. The images above and the PDF versions attached below include an "INDEX" for each TRAY. This Index of Tools and Functions Video is a narrated walk-through of the process.

The following Tools and Functions are integrated into the Woodworking Glue-Up and Knock-Down Joinery Version of the MikroBench:

Tool and Function Integrations on TRAY1

• 2 Integrated VICES for hand-held routing/drilling and sanding
• 6 Rows of MikroDogs - Holes to drop in 1/4" pegs for wide-board clamping using VICES
• 2 Mountable vices (purchased) for hardware mounting, thread tapping...
• 2 Drillpresses (holes confirmed to accept the base on 8" WEN, STEELE & Rikon drillpresses)
• 2 Bandsaws (holes have been confirmed to accept 10" Rikon and Craftsman bandsaws)
• 1or 2 Kreg Jigs (due to variations in Kreg jigs holes are designed to fit a universal plate)
• 1 Milwaukee 7 1/4" 18v Sliding Compound Miter Saw (or similar footprint miter saws)
• 8 or more R&R clamps from 12" up to 48" opening
• 2 Square Dog holes that will accept any round or square 3/4" BenchDog accessory
• 1 DeWalt 9' Tape Measure (or any other tape measure)
• 5 Holes for Allen Wrenches, 5/16"-18 Thread Taps, Hinge Bits and other specialty bits
• 5 Pencils and a Felt Tip Marker
• 1 Swanson 7" Speed Square (or most other brand similar type square tools)
• 1 Incra 3" Rule
• 2 Bessey Heavy Duty (or smaller) Clutch-Type Clamps (for vertical hold downs)
• Storage of 10+ Bessey or other brand C-Clamps along perimeter
• Hanging storage for Bessey (flat type) clamps via a DIY or retail slotted bracket
• 2 pair of 2" U-Bolts for R&R (possibly other style) clamps
• A 1/4" FLOOR for storing boxes of screws, bolts, tools and/or ballast
• Built-in storage for VICE, TRAY2 OR TRAY3
• Although not all of the above will fit at same time many combinations will
• Mortises for Knock-Down Joinery to TRAY2 above

Tool and Function Integrations on TRAY2

• 6 12v/18v hand-held routers and/or powered drill/impact drivers
• 12 Pencils, pens and/or 1/4" hex bits
• 1 Digital Calipers
• 1 Incra 3" Rule
• 1 Speed Square
• 12 GRK Fasteners (1/4" or less diameter)
• 8 Threaded Metal Tenons
• 10 Socket Bolts (or other head) 5/16" bolts
• 1 Gorilla Glue (inverted for quick flow)
• 1 Conventional Wood Glue (inverted for quick flow)
• 1 Glue Brush
• 1 Hyde HD Scraper (my favorite for "Taming the Gorilla")
• 1 3/16" Long-Handle Allen Wrench (for most 5/16" Socket Bolts)
• 1 1/4" Long-Handle Allen Wrench (for the "Cap Head" type Vice Bolts)
• Storage of 10+ Bessey or other brand C-Clamps along perimeter
• 2 Joinery mortises and bolt holes to TRAY1 below and to TRAY3 above

Tool and Function Integrations on TRAY3 - The Fun Tray!

• 1 Coffee cup before 5:00 PM
• 1 12 oz can or bottled adult beverage (after 5:00 PM)
• 1 Stemmed wine glass unless using power tools
• 1 8" Tablet vertical or horizontal (with a charger cable hole)
• 1 Cell Phone vertical or horizontal (with a charger cable hole)
• 1 TV/Stereo Remote Control
• 4 USB Thumb Drives
• Holes for Knock-Down Joinery connection to TRAY2 below

Mounting Considerations

The 2nd step was to figure out where the MikroBench would be used and how it would get mounted.

The MikroBench is intended to be "portable". It does not have its own base, legs or stand. It needs to be "mounted" to something that is up to the task of supporting not only the MikroBench but also the Tools and Functions it will support and the "live load" when using those tools.

The MikroBench includes Mounting Integration Cavities for and has been tested to fit on the following:

• Festool MultiStations using two or more Festool bench clamps
• Kreg Mobile Project Stations using two or more 3/4" BenchDog clamps
• Most Harbor Freight Mobile Mechanic's Carts using existing bolt holes in the carts
• Most 6' Drywall Baker Style Scaffolding using the existing 27 1/2" O.C. holes on the uprights
• Most Hitch Extenders when installed in the 2" receiver of any vehicle
• A picnic table in a National Park Campground using bolts through the spaced top boards
• Any flat surface with a cantilevered edge to accept a Bessey Clutch-Type Clamp
• Ballast - Heavy weight (bolts, nuts, scrap steel...) placed inside TRAY1 for stability

Video: MikroBench Mounted on 2" Truck Bed Extender

Transportation Considerations

This step also needed to consider that not all of my woodworking is in my home workshop. Sometimes it's only a few miles away to help a friend or family; sometimes to a nearby Folk School to teach a woodworking course; ; but most often on our extended RV trips as we travel the U.S. and Canada where an 18V mitersaw, 18V tablesaw, a score of 18v drivers/routers, hand tools, hardware and several MikroBenches all need to fit in the unprotected truck bed next to the 5th Wheel hitch. In this Storage and Transportation Video I show how the MikroBench fits into a Plano Bin for travel and for storage under the RV when camping. All of the transportation and storage concerns are accomplished as follows:

Knock-Down Joinery on the MikroBench

• TRAY1 and TRAY2 are connected via knock-down joinery
• Once knocked down all components fit inside the BaseStation "Box"

Plano Weatherproof Storage Bins

A short Video Showing the MikroBench in a Plano Bin

• The 11" x 6 1/2" x 24" MikroBench fits perfectly in a Plano bin
• The arched openings of the bench are hand-grips for easy in/out
• The tops on the Plano bins stay put at 70 mph
• The bins are weatherproof. Not a drop after heavy downpours
• The bins are perfect size to fit between the hitch and bed wall
• The bins are easily transferred from truck to under the RV

Outdoor Use and Weatherproofing Considerations

Once a MikroBench is mounted on a picnic table, a 2" hitch receiver, a tailgate or other outdoor surface and then loaded with tools it's nice to be able to leave it set up overnight or when wet weather visits. While the Mounting Integrations keep the fully assembled and loaded MikroBench secure from wind the bench and content need to be protected from rain, dew, snow, frost and even the "honest" passer-by. This is all accomplished as follows:

• A $15 Expert 48" Grill Cover was purchased from a local Walmart
• The Grill Cover was slipped over the fully-loaded MikroBench
• The Velcro strips held well even when really windy
• The grill cover keeps the MikroBench and content dry as a bone
• To a passer-by it looks like a covered grill not expensive tools

Rough-Calculate a Cut Plan

Next, since I had decided the materials would be limited to two 11 1/2" x 48" Stair Treads, I had to roughly calculate a cut plan for those two treads with the least amount of waste. Another criteria was I wanted the MikroBench to fit inside a weatherproof Plano bin so it can go camping with us. The interior dimensions of that Plano bin allowed for a box up to 24" long and 11" wide. Working these and other variables back and forth and, after leaving enough material to make the RISERS, BACK, FRONT, SPREADERS and VICE, I ballparked the TRAY sizes as follows:

1. TRAY1: 11" x 24"
2. TRAY2: 8" x 22"
3. TRAY3: 5" x 13"

Drawing Then Prototyping Then....

Drawing this project was one of the most challenging I had ever attempted in SketchUp because it was not only the board dimensions from the two stair treads but also where and how to place all of the desired Tool and Function cavities on those surfaces. Reality in a woodworking workshop frequently conflicts with digital theory. In this Creating The CutLists from Two Stair Treads Video I demonstrate the following methods used to create the CutLists for this MikroBench project:

• I started by drawing each board and then placing those boards in their digital position to "build" a 3D version of the BaseStation.
• Although I could have drawn the cavities for Tools and Functions directly into each of those boards I instead drew separate 2D versions for each board (the versions shown in yellow).
• It was on these yellow 2D "boards" where all of the cavities for Tools, Functions and Mountings were drawn. This added step leaves the original boards clear of cavities to represent their state if used to build the BaseStation Only version and those 2D versions will be needed later when importing portions of the SketchUp file into Vcarve, the software application used by the CNC router.
• Next I drew two boards each @ 1" x 11 1/2" x 48" to represent the two Stair Treads
• Then, using the yellow 2D version, I overlayed TRAY1 in the lower left corner of Stair Tread #1 then did the same with the yellow 2D version of the BACK and FRONT. This ate up all of Tread #1 leaving only the 1/2" nosing (shown in red) at the top edge of the stair tread.
• This process was repeated for TRAY2, TRAY3 and the rest of the boards placing each, this time, over Stair Tread #2 until all of the 1" thick boards were accounted for.
• The remaining section of Tread #2, about 5 1/2" x 24" x 1" thick, was later resawn on a bandsaw, glued edge-to-edge and cleaned to create the 1/4" thick FLOOR

The result of the above is the CutList for Stair Tread #1 and CutList for Stair Tread #2 shown above as a .jpg image and at the bottom of this Step as a PDF, the latter of which will provide the better option for zoomed viewing and printing.

Writing the Sequences

Once the length of a board is cut it's cut! Since there is no such thing as a "Board Stretcher" I needed to list which rip or cut to make first, second, third etc. so I didn't end up with any boards that are too short in length. While the CutList is the WHAT the Sequence is the WHEN! Since SketchUp does not have built-in text editing I make do with a few hits of the space bar to visually organize the Sequences usually on the same screen as the CutList. Those Sequences can also be found on the attached .jpg and .pdf files

Printing The Drawings, CutLists and Sequences

Printing directly from SketchUp is a bit challenging so instead I used a 3rd party screen-capture application, SnagIt by TechSmith, zoomed or panned to the specific view I wanted then clicked on "Capture". This not only provides the best printing option but also the downloadable .jpg and .pdf files.

Why No attached SketchUp File?

The next few steps in this Instructable focus on using the CutLists and Sequences to cut and rip Stair Tread #1 and Stair Tread #2. Those CutLists are attached as PDFs which can be viewed and printed by any woodworker without SketchUp software and without a SketchUp skill-set.

Cuts and Rips of Tread #1 Video

All of the "thinking" had been earlier when creating the CutList and Sequences where every board was dimensioned and the chronological order of cuts and rips had been calculated. Even though I wrote those CutLists and Sequences I still had the printed and digital drawings on an old sheet music stand in the shop where I read then adhered to every item on the CutList in the exact order sequenced. If I don't I regret it!

Using The CutList and Sequences

Rather than attempting to type out every step I took in the workshop I ask that you print and/or open the attached CutList for Stair Tread #1 PDF file and then view the Cuts and Rips From Stair Tread #1 Video attached to this Step where it took about about 15 minutes to render Stair Tread #1 into TRAY1, the BACK and the FRONT. The only waste was the 1" x 1/2" x 48" nosing. After cross-cutting and ripping there was the following stack of cut components from the one 11 1/2" x 48" Stair Tread #1:

• TRAY1 @1" x 11" x 24" (less saw kerf)
• The FRONT and the BACK each @1" x 5 1/2" x 24" (less saw kerf)

Cuts and Rips of Stair Tread #2

The process was the same as above for Stair Tread #1

Using The CutList and Sequences

Again, rather than attempting to type out every step, I ask that you open the attached CutList for Stair Tread #2 PDF and then view the CutList for Stair Tread #2 Videowhere I followed the CutList and Sequence to make all of the cuts and rips for Stair Tread #2. After about 45 minutes of shop time the following components for a MikroBench were shaped:

• TRAY2 @1" x 8" x 22"
• Two RISERS @1" x 3" x 11" with both ends mitered at 30 degrees
• Two VICE Boards @1" x 3" x 5 1/2" each
• TRAY3 @1" x 5 1/2" x 13"
• Two SPREADERS @1" x 3" x 9" including the arcs in each
• The 1" x 5" x 23" cutoff to be resawn to make the FLOOR

Waste Vs Plywood?

When calculating the maximum usage of the two treads I could see there would have been a waste board about 5" x 23" @ 1" thick. Just for grins I decided to use that instead of 1/4" plywood for the FLOOR. WOW was that a BEAR! In retrospect I would NOT recommend this. It took way too much time to do the resawing, gluing and then the multiple passes through the planer. When I build my next MikroBench I will simply use a sheet of plywood for the FLOOR.

Resaw Scrap to Make FLOOR Boards

In this Resawing Scrap Board For FLOOR Boards Video I show how, initially, I was going to rip the 5" scrap board to make less material for resawing but realized, due to the round bull-nose, there may not be enough material for the two halves to equal the width needed for the FLOOR so I went right to the resawing. I used an 18" Jet Bandsaw with a 1" TPI blade to resaw the 1" x 5 1/2" x 23" board to two boards @ about 3/8" thickness.

FLOOR Glue-Up

The resawn boards were about 3/8" thick. This Glue-Up of Scraps to Create FLOOR Video demonstrates the following process:

1. Knowing some of that thickness would be removed after glue-up these boards were kept as-is.
2. Several R&R Clamps were mounted on a prototype MikroBench
3. Because I wanted a quick dry and appearance was not an issue I used conventional wood glue rather than Gorilla
4. The boards were placed in the clamps and tightened in place using the 3/4" wrench
5. Initially there was no bowing but then the thin boards succumbed to the pressure of the clamps so srcap boards and clamps were added to each end for downward pressure..

Final FLOOR Cuts and Planing

Following the CutList the following completed the FLOOR:

1. This Remove From Clamps then Saw and Plane FLOOR Video shows how the boards were shaped after the glue had cured. This was a close call with hardly enough to meet those dimensions.
2. Planed the 3/8" x 10" x 23" board until it was 1/4" thick.
3. This Miter Cut FLOOR Corners Video shows how the miters were cut a 1" x 1" @ 45 degrees at each of the four corners.
4. This was done because the dado in the BACK and FRONT for this FLOOR is designed not go all the way to the end-grain since that last 1" is taken up by the SPREADERS.
5. A safety point made in the video is that this 1" x 1" triangle is very small and light. It will fly in all directions including up into the blade guard and/or at your face. Holding the miter saw blade all the way down until it comes to a complete stop will help minimize this issue.

Why Spline Joinery?

Although glue and screws will eventually be applied for permanent joinery "Spline Joinery" was added because it increases pull-away and horizontal strength to glued joints and it helps when aligning components during dry-fit testing and permanent assembly. I used 1/4" x 3/4" DIY splines because they are free, more forgiving than dowels or Dominos and the dados for same can be created with as little as a hand-held router.

Sizing the Splines and Dados for Spline Joinery

The dados for the 1/4" x 3/8" Splines needed to be 1/4" wide by 3/8" deep. To avoid a need to reset tools and bits that same dado size and distance from the edge were used for the FLOOR-to-FRONT/BACK and SPREADER dados.

When attempting to squeeze splines or the FLOOR between two boards that are intended to come tight together there needs to be a "margin-of-error" AND "glue space" by either increasing the depth and width of the dado or by decreasing the thickness and width of the Splines and FLOOR. My preference was to leave the dado at an already deep 3/8" depth and a true "1/4" width then create the margin-of-error space by slightly undersizing the splines and the FLOOR.

Creating the Dados on a Jet Shaper:

In the attached Making Dados on a Jet Shaper Video the following bullet points demonstrate how the 1/4" wide by 3/8" deep dados starting at 3/8" up from each edge were created:

• I own a Jet Shaper therefore that was the tool used to create the dados for this MikroBench. I like the shaper because:
• The size of the motor and diameter of the spindle mean the cutter stays true-to-width and depth even through inconsistencies in the wood like knots and grain.
• Dust collection is exceptionally good
• The 2 5/8"+- cutter can be stopped close to the end-grain when desired
• Other options for creating spline dados could be:
• A router table using a (true) 1/4" bit
• A tablesaw loaded with a (true) 1/4" Flat Bottom Dado Blade
• If I were building this bench while camping I would use a 1/4" upspiral straight bit and an edge guide installed in an 18V palm router. It would get the job done in a reasonable amount of time and with adequate accuracy
• The Cutter I used on the shaper was a "true" Amana 1/4" so it cuts a perfect 1/4" wide dado. The depth-of-cut is determined by the distance from the Shaper fence to the work-piece surface.
• Initial setup of the cutter on the Jet Shaper was as follows:
• A 3/8" spacer was placed under the Cutter to ballpark the dado to start 3/8" up from the table surface
• The same 3/8" spacer was used against the fence to ballpark the depth of cut at 3/8"
• To test those ballparks a 1" thick scrap board was run through the shaper and then a caliper was used to confirm the exact 3/8" height off of bottom edge and the exact 3/8" depth. If it had been off I would have tweaked and retested but it was not.
• In the video I demonstrate the marking of only those sections that will receive the dado because I didn't want the dado to go all the way to the end of the boards.
• It was here that I noticed a big "oops" in that the dados on the top edge of the BACK and FRONT were going to go into an empty space created for the Bessey clamps. (More about the issue and solutions below).
• The dados were also created in the two SPREADERS. Here too another "oops" was noticed: I should have waited to create the arches in the SPREADERS until AFTER THE DADO WAS CREATED ON THE SHAPER. The shaper cutter came too close to my fingers. The Sequence will be modified for future use.

Creating all of the dados on a Jet Shaper took about 10 minutes.

Making the Splines for Spline Joinery

Any wood laying around that can be planed to 1/4" will do. I had some 1/4" MDF but when I tried test fitting it into the dado it was way too tight. MDF is like a sponge, it absorbs moisture and expands so this must have been the case. I needed to rip and thin the MDF sheet to slightly undersized dimensions.

In the attached Making the Splines for Spline Joinery Video I demonstrate the following:

• Rather than run the whole sheet through the planer I instead ripped to undersized 3/4" strips first.
• I have two woodworking friends missing fingers both from attempting to rip small strips on a tablesaw. I like having all 10 fingers so I simply used a bandsaw. Its not only safe but the bandsaw blade also creates a rough-textured kerf which provides additional glue space just like you see on manufactured dowels and Festool Dominos.
• After ripping I ran the strips through the DeWalt planer with the on-board Depth Stop set to a very tight 1/4".
• When cutting the short strips to length I again demonstrate the safe way to cut small pieces on a large-blade chop saw by letting the blade come to a complete rest before lifting it. This prevents the spinning teeth from sending those cutoffs to who-knows where.

A Big "Oops" Discovered Here!

The initial digital design for this MikroBench shows three "T" shaped cavities near the top edge of the FRONT and BACK. These were there to accept Bessey Clutch Clamps (or similar) for clamping work material down to the top of TRAY1. Once I began shaping the dados I could see these cavities came way to close to the top edge, in fact the Shaper Cutter came into those openings. Not only was this an unsafe procedure but it also meant the Spline would extend into that opening so I needed to cut the spline into small sections to fit between the openings. During glue-up the Gorilla Glue majorly oozed into the openings and was very difficult to scrape out later. For these reasons future MikroBenches will be redesigned, probably to eliminate or lower the "T" shaped cavities. TBD

The Two Knock-Down Connections

A key feature of the MikroBench is that it is "portable". To obtain portability the RISERS connecting the TRAYS need to be some sort of knock-down joinery. There are two knock-down connections on a MikroBench:

1. The short RISER connecting TRAY3 to TRAY2
2. The two diagonally cut RISERS connecting TRAY2 to TRAY1

Threaded Bolt Joinery Connecting TRAY3 to TRAY2

The knock-down joinery connecting TRAY3 to TRAY2 is a 5/16" by 4" Flat-Head Socket Bolt that travels from the top surface of TRAY3; down through the short RISER; then through TRAY2 to a threaded nut or threaded washer. A few twists of that bolt with an Allen Wrench and the two TRAYS can be assembled or disassembled in seconds.

• The RISER material shown in the video and images for this build is oak from Stair Tread #2
• My preference would normally have been 1" x 3" Rectangular Metal Tube (steel or aluminum)
• In the mad rush to leave for the RV trip, I didn't have time to cut a piece of metal tube to bring with
• I repurposed one of the two oak VICES to cut the 1" x 2" x 3" RISER
• Mounted this still unfinished MikroBench on a picnic table in a Gulf Shores campground
• Mounted an 8" Wen Drillpress on that MikroBench
• Used a 3/8" Kreg-style bit to drill mostly through the oak RISER but the travel distance of the small drillpress was not enough to go full-through so finished the hole using a hand-held 18v driver.
• Metal tube is already hollow so no hole would need to have been drilled.
• The knock-down connection will be a 5/16" x 4" Flat-Head Socket Bolt
• The original design for TRAY3 shows a 5/8" x 1 3/4" rectangular washer recessed into the surface. Since then I have simplified this connection by calling for only a 3/8" hole here. That hole will get countersunk with an 82 degree angled bit to receive the 5/16" Flat-Head bolt without a washer. The CNC run made the mortise here so I will use a standard socket head or hex head bolt instead.

Threaded Tenon Joinery Connecting TRAY2 to TRAY1

The RISERS connecting TRAY1 to TRAY2 are a bit more complicated, in fact a lot more complicated. The two RISERS are longer and cut at 30 degrees to push TRAY2 towards the back out of the way of several intended Tools and Functions. There are a number of choices for knock-down joinery here detailed in supplement Step 12: Alternate Knock-Down Joinery Methods but my build will use Threaded Tenon Joinery.

There were two phases to incorporating Threaded Tenon knock-down joinery:

1. Creating The Mortises in the TRAYS
2. Mounting the Tenons on the RISERs

Creating the Mortises

The mortises for Threaded Metal Tenons need to be 3/8" deep to allow for the 1/4" thick tenon and the head of the two GRK screws that hold the tenon permanently to the end-grain of the RISERs. Mortises this shallow can be routed or drilled. For demonstration purposes I used both.

Creating Mortises via CNC Router

The Threaded Metal Tenons I used on this build were the goofy 3-overlapping circle shape. Those tenons will fit in a mortise of that same 3-overlapping circle shape but they will also fit in a rectangular shaped mortise that is at least 5/8" wide x 1 3/4" long. Since several boards were going to be run through the CNC anyhow I could have programmed the CNC to create the mortises in either shape but chose the goofy shape for the top of TRAY1.

Creating Mortises Using Template #2

Video: Using Template #2 to Create Mortises Video

Video: Template #2 - A 3D Tour - How to Dimple for Mortises

Although the most accurate method for creating mortises is a CNC it is not the most efficient if those are the only cavities on that surface. It is normally easier to use a template to rout or drill the mortises. Because I planned on building multiple MikroBenches and this will be the Class Project for an upcoming workshop where I want students to learn how to use templates it was worth the time to create a template that will not only help with creating these mortises but will also include the dimples to countersink for the GRKs that will permanently join the BACK and FRONT to the SPREADERS and TRAY1 to the BACK and FRONT.

Templates for making mortises can be designed for a drill press or for a router. The version for this build was for the drill press and is referred to as "Template #2. Instructions for using the template to create the mortises for the underside of TRAY2 is documented in the attached Using Template #2 Video including the following:

1. Placed 1/4" bolts and 1/4" plywood in the appropriate Template #2 slots to align and hold it to TRAY2
2. Snugged Template #2 into position over TRAY2
3. Used a 1/4" O.D. (7/64ths) Hinge Bit mounted in an 18v driver to dimple each of the 3 holes
4. Removed the template
5. An 11/16" Forstner bit was installed in the chuck of an 8" Wen drillpress. (This could be done with the bit in a hand-held driver as well)
6. A 1" thick scrap wood was placed on the drillpress table and table height locked where the tip of the Forstner was just above the surface of the wood
7. A few test borings were performed using the Depth-Stop on the drillpress until the hole was 3/8" deep+-
8. Placed TRAY2 on the drillpress table
9. The very sharp tip on that Forstner was place in one of the 3 dimples and then bore that hole to the limit of the Stop.
10. Repeated this for the other two holes.
11. Note how the dimple placed in the surface by the hinge bit earlier prevents the Forstner from jumping

All three overlapping holes created the mortise exactly matching the shape of the 3-Hole Threaded Tenon the exception being that the mortise is intentionally oversized by 1/16" which provides just enough space for minor alignment at the knock-down connection.

All mortises for knock-down joinery are now complete including those created by the CNC and those made with a drillpress.

Modifications to Design After These Videos

1. The design called for the top surface of TRAY2 to receive one mortise, near the back edge, for the diagonal RISER to TRAY3 so the video shows that mortise being created by CNC however the design for future builds will only call for a 3/8" full-through hole at this location
2. The design called for a mortise on the surface of TRAY3, near the back edge, for a recessed rectangular washer under the bolt head that connects TRAY3 to the the short RISER so the video shows that created by CNC. Future versions will only call for a 3/8" full-through hole.

Roundover or Chamfer RISER Edges Now

Later, in Step10: Finishing and Assembly I will use roundover bits to round the cavities and edges of the other Components but for these two diagonal RISERS we need to do that now before we install the metal tenons. Steel and router bits don't get along very well and the $30 bit always loses! I used a standard 1/4" radius roundover bit to do this.

Mounting The Threaded Tenons

For most traditional mortise and tenon woodworking the tenon is "shaped" from and on the end-grain of a board. The tenon for Threaded Tenon Joinery is also located on the end-grain however it is not "shaped" out of the board it is instead "mounted". The tenons can be mounted with or without a template. Because I use the same size and shape of Threaded Tenon I made a Template #1 on a CNC. The mounting of the Threaded Tenons took place on a picnic table at a campsite in Gulf Shores, AL using the integrated wood vice on the still unfinished MikroBench..

Video: Using Template #1 to Mount Threaded Tenons

Video: Template #1 - A 3D Tour for Using Template #1 to Mount Threaded Tenons

Using Template #1 to Dimple The End-Grain

1. The MikroBench was mounted on a picnic table using two small Bessey clamps
2. One of the two Integrated wooden VICES was installed on the MikroBench
3. A 2" x 2" x 1/4" MDF was placed in each of the two inner slots of the Template
4. A 1/4" Socket Bolt was placed in the outer hole of the Template to use as a Stop
5. One of the diagonally cut RISERs was snugged in the VICE
6. Template #1 was placed over the end-grain of the RISER with the 1/4" bolt touching the pointed end of the the 30 degree cut
7. Visually confirmed the underside of the template was flush to the surface of the RISER
8. Used a 1/4" O.D. Hinge Bit (7/64" Snappy) to dimple in each of the three holes
9. Removed the Template

Installing the Threaded Tenons on the End-Grain

1. Used a Kreg-style 3/8" drill bit held in an 18V driver to predrill the two outer dimples but only to the depth of the 1/8" tip of the Kreg bit (approx. 1/2" deep). These two outer holes will help guide the GRKs used to permanently mount the Threaded Tenon.
2. Used the same Kreg bit to drill the center dimple but this time allowing the 3/8" portion of that bit to predrill to a depth of about 1". This hole will provide the needed space for the excess end of the 5/16" bolt used for the knock-down connection later.
3. Placed a laser-cut 3-hole Threaded Tenon over those three holes
4. Using an 18V impact driver placed and sent a GRK #9 x 1 1/2" Multi-Use Fastener in one of the tenon holes BUT NOT ALL THE WAY HOME stopping just as the beveled head of the GRK entered the tenon hole. This helps retain alignment of the tenon but still allows the tenon to move when the second GRK is installed
5. The second GRK #9 x 1 1/2" was SENT ALL THE WAY HOME in the other tenon outer hole being careful to maintain alignment.
6. The first GRK was THEN SENT HOME.
7. The diagonally cut RISER was removed from the VICE, flipped 180 then the process repeated on the other end-grain.

Installing the four Threaded Tenons took less than 10 minutes total. .

BaseStation or MikroBench?

The difference between the BaseStation and a fully functional MikroBench is the "cavities" to support the Functions and Tools for performing multi-board glue-ups and knock-down joinery. Due to the shear number and precision needed those cavities need to be created via a CNC router. Folks not wanting or needing cavities can skip this Step and go to Step #10 Finishing and Assembly.

Why the Functions and Tool Cavities?

Taking this Project from the BaseStation phase to a fully functional MikroBench will not be for everyone, in fact it will be for only those woodworkers that actually perform multi-board glue-ups AND knock-down joinery AND have access to a CNC router AND want a fully functional MikroBench.This combination is a very rare breed! If this is you then Welcome to the Club! For my woodworking I want the R&R clamps; wrenches for those clamps; inverted glue dispensers; a Hyde HD scraper to "tame the Gorilla"; tape measures; pencils; and every other tool needed to perform multi-board glue-ups within arm's reach. This is the essence of a MikroBench!

Why Knock-Down Joinery Functionality?

My daughter gave me a hat that reads "I Can Build That". Regardless of whether I could or not, technically and skill-set wise, time-wise I can NOT. We all have limited time on this earth and who knows how much of the remainder can be spent woodworking. As this becomes more apparent I am becoming very selective relative to, not only the Projects I build, but also how I build. Just like the self-imposed limitations to use "rough-sawn and reclaimed hardwoods" I also want to focus on Projects that incorporate my own patented Threaded Tenon Joinery. For this I want the Hinge Bits; Center-Punches; Thread-Taps; Threaded Tenons; and even an 8" Drillpress right there in front of me even when working wood on a picnic table or off a 2" hitch receiver in some State Park campground. Again enter the MikroBench!

Creating The Function, Tool and Mounting Cavities

Taking this project to a full Multi-Board and Knock-Down Joinery MikroBench involves the creating of "cavities" in the boards that were cut from the two stair treads. While these cavities could be done manually nothing can beat the precision and speed of a CNC router but getting there is another story, in fact there is way too much detail to explain in the context of this Instructable. While I cant promise, I am hoping to write another Instructable dedicated to the process of designing for then importing into Vcarve for a CNC router which would demonstrate the steps to take a BaseStation to a full MikroBench. If published some of the main topics involve:

• Creating the Cavities Digitally in SketchUp
• Creating the CNC Tool Paths in Vcarve
• Routing the Cavities on the CNC Router
• Cleaning the Cavities After CNC Routing

Still Want More Detail?

For the real die-hard SketchUp/Vcarve Geeks that own a compatible CNC AND that know how to edit both SketchUp and Vcarve that want more detail the .skp, .crv and .tap files for my most recent version of a MikroBench are available for download at a nominal cost on my Store. That file includes modifications so DOES NOT MATCH THIS BUILD OF A MikroBench.

Assembly Sequence - BaseStation "Box"

Attached as an image above and a PDF below is the SEQUENCE for "Assembly of the BaseStation Box". The image shows the locations for all of the components and fasteners and includes the chronological sequence. For clarity that sequence is repeated at the bottom of this Step but I recommend reading the following before starting the final assembly:

Finishing Over 1,200 Miles!

The process of Glue-Ups, installing screws and varnishing took place over a period of weeks and over some 1,200 miles. The initial steps were taken just before leaving on an RV trip to Gulf Shores, AL. The rest had to be done at various campsites in Alabama. The following are video clips:

• Video: Glue-Up of the BaseStation Box
• Video: Removing the Glue_Up From The Clamps

Final Working of the Wood

This was the last chance to use finishing bits on most of the cavities and edges.

Creating Countersinks for Flat Head Assembly Bolts

The this Using an 82 Degree Countersink Bit Video demonstrates how to make the 82 degree bevel for that same shape on the head of a 5/16" Flat-Head Socket bolt.

Design Change: The video and images show a mortise on the top of TRAY2 and on the top of TRAY3 both near the back. Since then I have revised the design to use for knock-down joinery a single 4" Flat-Head Bolt from the top of TRAY3 down through the RISER and then through TRAY2. A 1" Flat-Head Bolt will also be used in the holes from the top surface of TRAY2 down to the Threaded Tenon on the RISERS from TRAY1. I wanted those bolt heads to be recessed both from an appearance standpoint and to avoid interfering with Tools and Functions at those locations. Since the wood for this build is hardwood I felt a Flat-Head Socket would look great; would provide plenty of holding power even after repeated use and can be inserted/removed with a small Allen Wrench.

The head of a 5/16" Flat-Head bolts is 5/8" diameter and has an 82 degree bevel. To match that shape a "beveled countersink" is driven into the 3/8" hole. Because I sometimes use 1/4" steel flat-bar as a washer I buy this type of of 82 degree countersink. bits that are rated for both metal and wood. Images for both the bolt and the bit are attached above.

Rout the Final Roundovers

At several points in earlier Steps the Sequences included a line: "Do not roundover at this point...". That was because we would maybe need to make tweaks after Dry-Fit. Now that we have done Dry-Fit and there are no more tweaks it is time to rout the roundovers.

1. Even though the underside of TRAY1 will not be that visible I still roundover that surface. It eliminates the sharp edges and tear-out created by the router bit and the rounded edges in the cavities are easier to touch up later after we apply heavy varnish to the top surface.
2. It is important to remember DO NOT ROUNDOVER EDGES, ONLY CAVITIES since some of the edges of some of the Components will butt other Components. Trying to keep track of which edges will get roundovers and which will not does not work for me so I simply don't roundover any at this point. That will come AFTER final assembly and glue cure.
3. Since many of the cavities are only a 1/4" across the bearing on a standard 1/4" radius roundover bit does not fit in the cavity so for those I used a "mini router bit". For most other cavities I used a standard 1/4" radius roundover bit.
4. The same bits were used to roundover the cavities on the top surface of TRAY1 and both sides of TRAY2 and TRAY3.
5. If you recall we had already routed the edges of the wood RISERS before we installed the Threaded Metal Tenons to avoid any chance of the roundover bit hitting the steel tenon.

Permanent Assembly

The dry-fitting of TRAY1 to the BACK and FRONT along with the FLOOR and SPREADERS confirmed everything was good to go so the next step was to make those connections permanent with both glue and screws. The attached Gorilla Glue-Up of BaseStation Box Video shows how the BaseStation Box was glued together using R&R Clamps in a prototype MikroBench.

Taming the Gorilla (glue)

My glue preference is almost always Gorilla Glue. due to the aesthetics of filling joints and material voids with a stainable material and how Gorilla's expansion increases the attachment area so Gorilla was used for this build BUT the Gorilla got the best of me on this one. I used Gorilla Glue but, again because I was in a mad rush to pack for the RV trip I only had time to remove the glue-up from the clamps to bring with on the trip. Because of that I did not have access to some of the tools I would normally have available to "Tame the Gorilla". Making matters worse was the design error mentioned when making the spline dados with the Shaper. Those dados collided with a the "T" shaped Bessey clamp slots near the top of the BACK and FRONT which allowed huge amounts of glue to ooze into the slots. I have since modified the design and will fix this oozing when I return to the shop.

Applying GRK Fasteners

This MikroBench is intended not just to be "used" but to also be "abused". Consider the tools it is designed to support (drillpresses, bandsaws, mitersaw, pocket-holes ...) Using those tools adds the "live load" factor. There will be pressure in several directions like when the drillpress handle is turned or when pushing a board through the bandsaw. Another stress comes when mounting the MikroBench cantilevered off the side of the Tool Carts or Scaffolding. For these and other reasons I included Screw Joinery in the MikroBench design. The video shows the countersinks for these screws were created by the CNC but Template #2 also contain the locations for each of these to dimple the screw locations where a Forstner bit can be used to create the countersinks

Varnish Before or After Glue-Up???

It will be very difficult later to reach inside an assembled BaseStation "box" to varnish so I would typically varnish the inside surfaces before final assembly being careful NOT TO GET VARNISH WHERE GLUE WILL GO since glue will not adhere well to a varnished surface. This coat or two also helps with drips that are inevitable when later varnishing the surfaces with cavities. Again I was in a rush to leave for the RV trip so did not have time to varnish first so had to do this later which, as expected, resulted in a pretty sloppy looking inside of the box but it's at least protected from the elements.

Other Varnishing Tips

• Since I do not stain I use oil base varnish since that brings out the grain, colors and other natural features so much better than water base varnish.
• Folks often avoid oil base because they think they need to use smelly thinners to clean brushes between coats. FORGET THAT FOREVER! You will see in the video I use a disposable bristle brush (not foam) then, when done, stick the brush in a Solo cup filled part-way with water. YEP! WATER! Oil and water do not mix so the brush stays totally moist for days and even weeks. When ready to do another coat simply shake the brush against a scrap wood, wipe it with a paper towel and good to go.
• I used to prefer Satin or Semi-Gloss but have discovered the glossier the better when it comes to removing spilled glue later during glue-ups. Pops right off with one of a Hyde HD Scraper.
• All of the Cavities for bits, pencils etc. were oversized by about 1/32" figuring there would be some varnish inside. In fact I prefer to let varnish ooze into those crevices so they too have protection against moisture, graying, and the tools slide in and out easier for lack of swelling. You will note in the FINISH SEQUENCE for each TRAY it recommends intentionally letting the varnish drip into each cavity, waiting a few minutes and then lightly brushing the bottom to spread out those drips.
• Once completely dry I hit it with a 200 grit +- careful not to over-sand the edges which can easily be done. After that a 2nd coat of varnish and then go from there. If I really want the bench to be a piece of art it might get 3 coats.

ASSEMBLY SEQUENCE

IMPORTANT: ALL OF THE FOLLOWING MUST BE DONE QUICKLY WHILE GLUE IS STILL WET

1 - Set two clamps on flat surface. Preset depth to about 12 1/2". Place the FLOOR in the clamps

2 - Brush Gorilla glue inside SPREADER and FRONT/BACK dados and on end-grain of SPREADERS

3 - Slide SPREADERS towards FLOOR from right and left so FLOOR slides into each SPREADER dado

4 - Slide FRONT and BACK into FLOOR dado and towards SPREADER's end grain aligning as you do

5 - Gradually snug clamps aligning all edges until snug. REMEMBER glue is wet so it will cause sliding

6 - Once all edges are perfectly aligned insert and send home an #8 x 2 1/2" GRK into each of the 4 countersinks

7 - Brush Gorilla Glue into the two 3" long SPLINE dados on top edge of BACK & FRONT then insert SPLINES into that dado

8 - Brush Gorilla Glue on entire 1" top edge of FRONT/BACK including SPLINES

9 - Noting orientation of TRAY1 bring TRAY1 down on top of FRONT & BACK. (SPLINES will help align)

10 - In FRONT lower left corner countersink use an 1/8" drill bit to predrill at least 1 1/2" depth

11 - Place a GRK #8 x 2 1/2" in that predrill and gently drive mostly but not totally home

10 - Repeat Steps #10 & #11 on FRONT lower right corner; then on BACK corners countersinks (Should be 4 total)

12 - Once all GRKs are mostly home use an impact driver to send all home while monitoring alignment

13 - Optionally fill all GRK countersinks with 3/8" diameter wooden plugs (Use combo of glue types)

14 - Inspect entire assembly. Realign if necessary.

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO WIPE GORILLA OFF AT THIS TIME. WE WILL WAIT UNTIL DRY THEN HYDE SCRAPER IT

Examples of Using a MikroBench

The whole idea behind "making a MikroBench" is to actually "use a MikroBench"! The following, in no particular order, are just a few examples of how a MikroBench is placed into actual use. Over time I hope to post more Instructables showing the MikroBench in action both in my home shop and on the road while camping in our RV.

Glue-Ups Using R&R Clamps

A prime example for using a MikroBench as a Glue-Up Workstation is the same video shown in the Final Assembly Step above where a prototype loaded with R&R Clamps was used to glue-up the main box for this MikroBench.

Mounting a Milwaukee 7 1/4" Sliding Miter Saw

In this Mounting a Milwaukee Miter Saw Video the MikroBench was mounted on a picnic table in a Gulf Shores campground then an 18V Milwaukee 7 1/4" Sliding Compound Miter saw was mounted and used to make a few cuts.

Protecting the MikroBench Outdoors

In this Grill Cover To Protect MikroBench Video a simple $14 Grill Cover purchased at Walmart is used to cover the MikroBench and the tools to protect it from the elements.

Knock-Down or Not?

A key feature of the MikroBench is that it is "portable". To obtain portability the RISERS connecting the TRAYS need to be some sort of knock-down joinery. As you will see in Step 13: The Rest of the Story I have a personal interest in seeing Threaded Tenon Joinery become commonplace in woodworking however I also researched and/or tested all of the alternative Knock-Down Joinery methods I could find but none comes close to meeting all of the criteria I wanted for my heavy-duty use Projects including this MikroBench. The choice to use knock-down joinery or NOT will be up to the builder and, if so, the type of knock-down joinery. The following list of Alternate Knock-Down Methods may help with that decision.

Knock-Down Joinery Criteria

When considering knock-down joinery options one will need to decide which is best based on:

1. Strength needed for the connection
2. Frequency of assembly, disassembly and then reassembly
3. Ownership of specialty tools for preparing or installing specialty joinery hardware
4. Cost of consumables and or tools to install
5. Physical access to the installation point or connections
6. Skill-set relative to preparing for or installing knock-down hardware

Retail-Available Knock-Down Alternatives

The following are the retail-available options I researched and considered for knock-down connections on this MikroBench:

• GRK RSS 2 1/2" Screws - There are only a few locations on the MikroBench where knock-down joinery is recommended. Those connections could quite easily be made without knock-down joinery by using a high-tech screw like the GRK RSS. These can often be purchased individually for about $0.30/each or for $0.21/each if in a box of 50. This particular model would be ideal since it has a self-tapping tip and a large head that will hold the TRAYS together even under the anticipated weight and use. The 2 1/2" length would work for all locations. The downside to using screws is that TRAY2 and TRAY3 would be permanent eliminating the Plano bin option for transportation and storage.TRAY2 will also interfere with the base plate on the 10" bandsaw and the 7 1/4" miter saw so those two tools could not be mounted. If using screws I recommend drilling holes in the FLOOR directly beneath the heads of the screws from the underside of TRAY1 into the diagonal RISERS. This will allow for the T-25 in a bit extender to come up from underneath to fasten the GRKs.
• Festool Domino (DF 700) Metal Knock-Down Connectors - (This is the metal hardware version not the wood Domino type). The name says it all "Festool", a manufacture of some of the best woodworking tools known to man. This system, relatively new, uses the Festool DF 700 Domino Tool to create the mortises and then they sell, through retailers like Woodcraft, Rockler, etc the hardware to match. Although I own (and love) a number of Festool tools I have not found it in the budget to purchase a DF 700 so I have no experience to form an opinion on their system or if these metal fasteners would be an alternative to Threaded Tenon Joinery for a MikroBench.
• Hanger Bolts - Hanger bolts have been around for a long time. The 5/16" x 2" can be purchased for about $1.28/each. I tried to use them for knock-down applications and they "kind-of "worked but, because there is no shoulder to prevent the wood components from twisting, two are always needed which are difficult to align; they frequently ended up crooked; they split the wood despite predrilling; and are only available in certain lengths so were often too long or too short. I also didn't like the fact that the bolt end was sticking out when disassembled feeling it was unsafe and would damage other components when transporting parts. That said hanger bolts could be a viable alternative to Threaded Tenon Joinery for this MikroBench. If so I recommend using a 3/4" or larger Forstener on the surface of each TRAY where the bolt head will come through. This will allow for a washer and a 5/16" nut to stay below the surface. Then two holes should be predrilled in each of the RISER end-grains to a depth that will allow the hanger bolt the correct depth so the threaded end of the bolt will come into the countersink made by the Forstener but still below the surface of the TRAY.
• Threaded Inserts - Threaded inserts have also been around forever and provide a true metal-to-metal knock-down connection. The 5/16" brass version can be purchased at stores like Woodcraft for less than $1.00 each. Because there is no shoulder to prevent twisting two inserts will be needed at each connection. To use threaded inserts as an alternative to Threaded Tenons for this MikroBench use the drill bit size recommended by the insert supplier to predrill two holes in the end-grain of the RISERS but continue those holes to allow for excess bolt length during installation. The same 5/16" Flat Head type socket bolts used for Threaded Tenon Joinery can be used for the final connection however the bolt lengths will need to be at least 1 1/2" so there is ample thread-to-thread connection inside the insert.
• Barrel Nuts AKA Dowel Nuts AKA Knock-Down Fasteners are frequently used for knock-down connections and could be an alternative to Threaded Tenon Joinery. When purchased in packs of 20 the 5/16" x 3/4" size cost about $1.00/each. Because there is no shoulder to prevent twist two will be needed at each connection. Because the "barrel" is 90 degrees to the end-grain these could be difficult to align especially on the diagonal RISER ends. That said there are woodworkers that use these frequently and will probably have the solutions.
• Tap Threading the Wood - Wood can be "tap threaded" using a standard tap used in metalworking or there is now an online retailer that manufactures a "Wood Thread Tap". Wood is very easy to tap and, other than the initial purchase of the tap, there is no mounting hardware. When testing conventional metal taps I downsized the pilot hole by 1/32" than recommended for steel. Infinity Tools, the supplier of taps specifically for wood lists their recommended drill bit size depending on species. If tapping the wood to make a knock-down joint keep in mind that the initial connection of metal bolt threads into wood is a very strong one but wood is wood, the threads inside the wood will deteriorate every time the parts are disassembled and reassembled. If the MikroBench will not need to be knocked down frequently wood tapping could be a great alternative to Threaded Tenon Joinery. As with most other methods discussed above there is still no shoulder to prevent twisting so two tapped holes are needed at each connection.

Paul Harvey: "The Rest of the Story"

Threaded Tenon Joinery, until a few years ago, didn't exist. So here, as Paul Harvey would have said is "The Rest of the Story":

Threaded Tenon Joinery

When building stair systems for log home clients I began experimenting with a method of joinery allowing me to build; dry-fit and apply finishes for railing systems all while still in my home workshop before those components were taken to the jobsite for installation. Later I started building other commissioned and personal projects using the same system.

This method for "knock-down" joinery not only worked it worked extremely well. My customers suggested: "You should patent that!". So, as a "Bucket List" item, did just that. A year later the U.S. Patent office issued two patents:

1. Utility Patent
2. Design Patent

Having patents and selling them for millions are two different things so, until some big woodworking conglomerate comes along and realizes this system is ready for prime time, I use enough for personal projects and for class projects in the workshops I teach to warrant having a small-order laser manufacturer fabricate and tap small quantities. I also make my own when needing a custom size, shape or material.

Again, I am retired, so had and still don't have any intentions of returning to the business world to personally have manufactured or promote the patented Threaded Metal Tenons for retail sales. That said, because I have small quantities fabricated, I place the laser-cut tenons for sale on my Shopify Store along with some hard-to-buy-in-small-quantity related hardware and custom mounting templates. If you are a Content Creator, furniture manufacturer or woodworking retailer interested in licensing please PM me here at Instructables.