Build a Closet Organizer

My contractor special closet was woefully inadequate and needed a big upgrade. My closet was a simple single bar and shelf. Once I decided to upgrade, I thought about how I used the closet, how I wanted to use it, and additional possibilities.

I modeled the closet in Sketchup. This let me figure it out before I start cutting. I always try to maximize quality and cost. I settled on a double rod, lower shelf, and vertical shelf. I initially wanted to place the vertical shelf in the center of the closet, but the center of the closet and door aren't the same and the shelf would take up prime real estate. So I tucked it to one side. It could only go on one side otherwise it would be completely blocked due to door placement. From there it was a matter of trying to maximize space and sizing.

I have 38" vertical clear from rod to rod which is just about the minimum needed. For dresses or long coats, this is not enough space.The top most shelf only has 12" vertical clear, which is fine, but any shorter would make it unusable.

The lower shelf has 8" clear and is 12" deep, the vertical shelf is 9" wide and 12" deep.

Everything is 3/4" project grade plywood.

I bought 1.5" pipe forgetting that pipe is internal diameter, not outside. I should have bought 1.25" pipe as an overall 1.5" is the typical rod size. Since this is 1.5" pipe the overall diameter is 1.75". Clothes hangers fit on it fine, but it is just a bit large.

Purchase List:

(2) 4'x8' project grade plywood sheets (prices have risen since I purchased)

(1) 10' 1.25" galvanized pipe

(2) 1.25" galvanized pipe brackets

(8) 1/2" Wood Screws

(1) Gallon KILZ paint or similar

(2) Quarts Semi-gloss trim paint

Acrylic caulk

Subtotal: $280 (I saved $140 by already having paint, caulk, screws and 1 sheet of plywood)

Tool List:

table saw with crosscut sled

circular saw

router with 3/8" rabbet (optional) and 1/4" straight

hole saw 1.5"

prybar and plate, hammer for demolition

screw driver

caulk gun

razor blade

Cut List (Your dimensions will vary):

(2) 6'6"x13"vertical sides

(9) 9"x12.25" vertical shelves

(2) 6'1"x13" horizontal top/bottom

(4) 8"x12.25" horizontal dividers

(1) 6'-1"x3" bottom filler

(3) 3"x9" bottom support

(2) filler panels angled to match out of plane wall

(4) 2"x10.5" drawer sides (route slots for drawer sliders)

(2) 2"x7.125" drawer backs

(2) 2"x8.75" drawer fronts

(2) 7.125"x9" drawer bottoms

(4) .5"x10.5" drawer slides (.25" MDF)

(4) .5"x10.l5" drawer slides (.125" plywood)

The first step was removing the clothes in the closet, then all of the trim. The shelf just sits on trim nailed to the wall. With that removed the rod is easy to remove as it sits in the trim on one side and slots into the other side. From there I removed the shelf trim and baseboard. I used a metal plate to distribute the force of the pry bar against the wall and help prevent denting the drywall. Pry the trim little by little along the length. Once it's out far enough from the wall pry at the nails, working along the length to remove trim.

The lower shelf is divided into four sections that are 8" tall. I based the height on the shoes I want to store in it.

This shelf is roughly 6' wide, 12" deep, and 8" clear inside. For the top and bottom I used a rabbet to route ends and spliced two 3' long pieces for the top to avoid buying a second sheet of plywood. This is viable only because I planned to paint it. At one point I thought about doing solid wood, but the price would be too much.

I had to construct this shelf in the closet as I wanted my tolerances as tight as possible to avoid filler panels and maximize space. If I built it outside of the closet, I'd have to reduce the width to account for rotating it into place.

I screwed in the lower shelf with one screw on each end into a stud.

I built the vertical shelf separate. It's roughly 6' tall with four 6" clear shelves, and four 12" clear shelves. At first, I wished I had made this 14" or 15" deep instead of 12" as my rod brackets were wider than expected. I had to pull the clothes rod in 1", which ultimately I liked better.

It didn't fit tight in the corner, even after rounding over the rear corner of the shelf. The walls aren't square. I shimmed the vertical shelf so that it was parallel with the bottom shelf and then screwed it into the wall. Since I was unable to hit studs, I used plastic anchors. I drilled holes through the shelf and into the wall, then removed the shelf and drilled larger holes for the plastic anchors. I attached it with four screws in each corner.

I reused the top shelf that spanned the width of the closet, moving the trim that supported it up the wall so that the shelf sat on top of the trip and vertical shelf.

I wanted a dedicated drawer for wallet, keys, etc. I made two 1.25" deep drawers with flush faces. I routed a 1/4" slot down each side.The runners are 1/4" MDF. I made a 1/4" MDF and 1/8" ply bracket for support. I wasn't confident the 1/4" MDF would be strong enough to glue to the wall without some support. I waxed the runners on the wall and the slots in the drawers. This makes them slide much better. I used .04 polystyrene plastic on top of one set of runners to reduce the gap of the drawer.

My closet is 6'2" wide, and I didn't want to have to buy (2) 10' poles just to cut them down. I bought one 10' pole and cut it in half. My shelf is 12" wide, but I wish I had made it 14" just to maximize space. The rod bracket is able to absorb 1.25" of space, but I did hole saw (2) 3/4" pieces of plywood and put them inside the bracket so the rod wouldn't move horizontally. On the opposite wall the trim has a 3/4" piece of plywood to fill space. That fills the 2" gap I have between rod length and closet width, but instead of filler, I could have made my vertical shelf wider and still had the same amount of rod length.

I used the baseboard from the bottom of the closet to create new trim pieces for the far end of both rods. A hole saw through the trim creates a resting spot.

I used galvanized brackets on the vertical shelf side. I created pilot holes and used screws that were 1/2" deep.

I had to repaint the wall where trim was moved. I had KILZ white on hand, but it still took three coats to cover and blend. I used spackling compound for nail holes and for the end grain of the plywood and my splice joints. I accidentally dropped one of the closet rods and put a dent in the plywood. I might could have used a damp towel and an iron to bring out the dent, but I just spackled and sanded it.

The closet organizer was painted to match the trim in the room. I always use a semi-gloss on trim. For this application it makes it easier to clean as opposed to a satin or flat.

I cut some filler strips for the vertical shelf. As the gaps were 3/8" at the top/bottom and tapered to 1/8. A 1/8" gap can be caulked, wider than that would need a filler piece or backer rod. My walls just weren't in plane and I'm guessing it's because it was a closet and done quickly. The filler strips slope evenly and fills the gap so I just need caulk. For the bottom shelf I did use foam backer road on one side as the gap was a bit too big for just caulk.

For the drawers, I cut a piece of leather to size to add friction and prevent items from sliding around.

Conclusion:

This turned out exactly like I wanted. I wish I had made the vertical shelf an inch or two wider so I didn't have to use a filler block for the double rods. At first I thought it should have been an inch deeper so the rods were centered from to back, but I actually like them an inch to the rear better.

My favorite part is the drawers for wallet, keys, etc. It's still my favorite part.

This closet fits so much more. While the top shelf is more difficult to reach, it's also a more efficient use of space.