Brake Drum Forge

by Straklin in Workshop > Metalworking

52427 Views, 729 Favorites, 0 Comments

Brake Drum Forge

temp_1361769531.jpg
My brother (Bigdaddycole) and I have been talking about building a forge for some time. We finally found some time over the last few weekends and put this together. We used a lot of stuff we had in house, so it was a cheap build. Please comment if you have suggestions or improvements. We have also entered this in the "On a Budget" contest, so if you like it please vote. We hope you like this build!

DISCLAIMER: When using an angle grinder, make sure you use eye protection and gloves. Also make sure you are working in an area free from combustible material. It throws off a lot of sparks and hot metal. Know how to use your tools safely! Be safe, and have fun!

Parts List and Tools

temp_304424673.jpg
temp_-1277776160.jpg
temp_-997434992.jpg
temp_-1206141160.jpg
temp_897254074.jpg
temp_789874769.jpg
temp_-152218914.jpg
Tools:

Power Drill
Angle Grinder
Socket Set w/ Ratchet
Metal Sheers
Pliers
Gloves
Safety Glasses

Parts List:

Queen Size Bed Frame Parts
Brake Drum
Hair Dryer
Assorted 1 1/2 in. Black Pipe
1ea 1 1/2 in. Black Pipe T Joint
1ea 1 1/2 in. Black Pipe End Cap
1ea 1 1/2 in. Black Pipe Floor Flange
4ea Stainless Steal Bolts w/ Nuts
1ea stainless Steal Kitchen Sink Drain Catch

We got the Brake Drum from a junk yard ($14) only to find out later we could have gotten it for free from the local tire repair shop. I had a bed frame in the garage saved for just this sort of project. I also had a metal frame stand left over from my table saw which I had mounted to a more stable structure.

We got the hair dryer and the kitchen sink screen from Family Dollar. The hair dryer was $10, and donated by a friend, John, so he could come over and use the forge when he wanted. As it turns out, this Conair 1875 hair dryer fits perfectly on the 1 1/2 in. black pipe. The sink screen was $1.

The black pipe was all purchased at the Menard's, and cost about $20.

Total out of pocket cost: $45.00 US (We could have saved $14 by going to the tire repair shop for the break drum. Hind sight is 20/20!)



Build the Frame

temp_1690906566.jpg
temp_1143662279.jpg
temp_1413906382.jpg
temp_1149213095.jpg
temp_448486747.jpg
temp_-290997711.jpg
temp_-460859367.jpg
temp_598179806.jpg
temp_-1403436956.jpg
temp_-1986244336.jpg
To build the frame we started with the old saw stand I had. This just bolted together. We then cut two pieces of the bed frame with an angle grinder long enough to fit across the top of the saw stand. We measured and drilled holes to bolt these in place on top of the stand. We made them far enough apart to hold the brake drum flat across the top and be stable.

The Forge

temp_1442501201.jpg
temp_1779882831.jpg
temp_882117192.jpg
temp_-1385436161.jpg
temp_-488741445.jpg
temp_1158614749.jpg
temp_-760945390.jpg
temp_-1681732999.jpg
temp_-299680350.jpg
temp_-62549233.jpg
To build the forge, we started by placing the floor flange in the center of the brake drum and marking the holes we needed to drill. None of the holes lined up with the holes in the drum, so we had to drill all new ones. We used a little drop of oil on each mark, but really had no problem drilling the holes.

Next we cut the sink screen to fit over the hole. I removed the plastic piece from the center and used the metal sheers to make four cuts. We flattened it out and screwed it into place with the floor flange. We just widened the holes that were already on the strainer. We used four stainless steel bolts to hold it all in place. The order of the pieces is as follows: brake drum on the bottom, floor flange (threads pointing down) resting in the hole of the brake drum,and the sink screen on top of the flange.

The Bellows

temp_-1663866906.jpg
temp_1602066875.jpg
temp_-1550062937.jpg
temp_-1457903393.jpg
temp_-1036080339.jpg
temp_-1058988983.jpg
temp_1568826997.jpg
The next step is to build the bellows. The black pipe is used in houses for running natural gas I believe. It's great for all kinds of projects. Here we have three lengths of pipe. Two are long, one is short. Depending on how tall your stand is, you may need different lengths of pipe. We used one long connected to the bottom of the forge by the floor flange. Then we connected the T joint. The short pipe is used as an ash collector, and should be directly below the first long pipe. The end cap is screwed on the other end of the short pipe, and can be unscrewed to remove any ash build up. The other long pipe goes into the T joint, extending out long enough to connect the hair dryer. The hair dryer supplies oxygen to the forge, increasing the heat.

Place the Forge on the Stand, and Light Er Up!

temp_-1788461131.jpg
temp_1722885070.jpg
temp_-1606651429.jpg
temp_1771910401.jpg
temp_1900325007.jpg
temp_-222581151.jpg
temp_425456334.jpg
The forge and bellows sits on top of the stand, BUT IS NOT CONNECTED! It rests securely on the two braces we put on top of the stand. The weight of the brake drum and black pipe hold it in place. This makes it easy to move around and store. We tested it with some charcoal, and scrap pieces of wood. We started with the hair dryer on low. Once it was burning good, we put it on high, and it got real hot, real fast! Hopefully we will be using it soon to make other instructables!

Please comment below, and let us know what you think, and if you liked it, please vote for us. We are new to this, and are willing to learn. Thanks to Bigdadycole and John for their help.