Boot Socks for Any Foot 2.0

I had a chance to make my boot socks a couple of times more and change and perfect the instructions so here come the new and better boot socks for any foot!

The aim of this instructable is to show you how to make a pattern for your feet and sew the boot socks. I'll give you the amount of material I used for my own socks and I'd say that's an average amount of everything. Moreover, you can upcycle any old sweater in this project.

- outside fabric (can be warm or not - sweater, fleece blanket, double-layer knit - that's what I used) - at least 1 x 1 m

- lining fabric (warm - fleece, minky, faux fur, plush - that's what I used) - at least 1 x 1 m

- pompom fabric (I recommend to use the lining fabric) - approx. 25 x 25 cm

- pompom filling (gaze, fabric trimmings, pillow filling...)

- 16 grommets + washers (more if you want to use more)

- laces - approx. 1,5 m

- matching threads

- sewing machine, event. also serger

- scissors - if you choose fur for any part of your boot socks, make sure your scissors are very very sharp

- pins - I recommend using long pins as you'll be pinning several thick layers

- needle for hand-sewing

- paper, pencil, event. also transparent tape

- tailor's meter, event. also ruler

- tools you use to install the grommets - I use manual punch for the holes and then to install the grommets I use a hammer and the base tool and flaring tool

To create the pattern you'll need a paper, a pen, a tailor's meter and eventually also a ruler and some adhesive tape. I will show you how to construct a pattern for one sock. I made a pattern for the left foot and then mirrored it to trace the right sole on the fabric. You can make a universal sole as well but as with shoes - the boot socks will also fit you better if the left and right are customised for left and right.

Take a look at the first 2 pictures above before you start. You'll get an idea about the pieces of the pattern. The first picture shows the boot sock from the side, the second picture shows it from the front. The dots are the grommets but more about them later.

What you'll need for one sock:

- 2 front pieces

- 1 back piece

- 1 top piece

- 1 sole piece (not in the pictures)

Sole

Start with the sole. Step on the paper and trace your foot, adding 2 cm on each side. So in total the sole piece should be 4 cm longer and wider than your foot. Cut 2 pieces of the sole but don't forget that they have to be opposite (left ad right). (picture 3)

Top

Continue with the top piece. Step on the paper again and trace the piece as shown in the photos. As you can see in the first picture, the top of the larger curve should be approximately over your index toe while the top of the smaller curve (green dot) should be about where the instep turns into the ankle (or little below). Make this piece 2 cm longer in the front than your foot. The piece I cut out is not a result of one tracing. I had to adjust, redraw and cut several times. (pictures 4 and 5)

When you trace it for the first time, place it on the sole piece - leave the sole flat and place the top piece on it to see if and how much to adjust it and also mark on the sole where the edges of the top piece are. You can also tape the two pieces together (later you cut them again to use the to trace on the fabric). Picture 6 shows what it looks like when you mark the edges.

Front and back

Let's continue with the front piece and back piece (picture 7).

To trace the front piece measure the length from the top of the small curve (green dot) to where you want the sock to reach - I wanted the sock to end just below my knee. If you want to create the rolled edge, add some 4 cm. And as for the width, that should be the distance between the top of the small curve and the edge of the top piece (blue arrows in picture 4).

As you can see in one of the pictures, the bottom edge of the front piece is a curve. Also, you need two front pieces for one sock but it's actually enough to cut just one. When you trace it on the fabric later, you just trace them mirroring each other. And now for the back piece. Measuring the height it simple, use the height of the front piece (its longer side) and add the length of the edges of the top piece (purple line in picture 8).

And the width of the back piece should be the distance between the edge of the top piece (orange arrow in picture 8 or the edge that you marked earlier on our sole piece - picture 9) and the center of the heel on the sole piece. This way you'll make half of the back piece which is enough because you'll then cut the fabric on fold and thus make the width of the piece double. Now you have all the pattern pieces you need. I recommend you to tape them together and see if everything fits nicely.

Outside fabric

Cut for one sock:

- 1 sole piece according to the pattern

- 1 top piece according to the pattern + add 1 cm to the edges (purple lines) and in the curve

- 2 front pieces mirroring each other according to the pattern + add 1 cm on both sides (width) and at the bottom end (curve)

- 1 back piece cut on fold according to patter + add 1 cm on both long sides

Lining

For one sock cut the same pieces like from the outside fabric.

The seam allowance is 1 cm (so sew 1 cm from the edges) and you can either serge and then run through it with a straight stitch or use a normal zigzag and then the straight stitch.

Before I got down to sewing I decorated the fabric with the Amish stumpwork. The instructable is here. (picture 1)

Place both front pieces right side together, pin and stitch them about 5 cm on the bottom edge (where the curve is). (pictures 2 and 3)

Picture 4 shows what it will look like when you open it. Leave the front piece right side up and place the top piece on it wrong side up.

Pin and stitch. (pictures 5 and 6)

Place the back piece on it wrong side up and stitch on both long sides. (picture 7)

Now the last piece left to stitch is the sole piece. (picture 8 and 9)

Pin and re-pin the sole as many times as you need, make sure it aligns nicely. (pictures 10 and 11)

Stitch and turn right side out. (pictures 12 and 13)

The seam allowance is 1,5 cm (so sew 1,5 cm from the edges) and you can either serge and then run through it with a straight stitch or use a normal zigzag and then the straight stitch. Use long pins to pin the fabric.

Follow the same steps like you did with the outside fabric.

Use a zigzag stitch and secure it with a straight stitch, seam allowance is 1 cm.

Place both fabrics right sides together, pin and stitch only the upper edge of the sock. (picture 1)

Picture 2 shows the result.

Place the lining inside the outside fabric. If you did everything correctly, you have now both fabric the wrong sides together. (picture 3)

Align both fabrics in the foot top and heel and pin the together so they don't move. (picture 4)

Now you'll be stitching together the long sides of the front piece. You can choose one of the following three ways to do it:

1. The outside fabric is longer, so you can just fold it over the lining (and fold the edges in a little) and stitch through. I recommend to do this only if you don't want to roll the edges of your socks later. (photo 5)

2. Fold the edges of both fabrics inside and stitch with the hidden stitch. The tutorial is here. (photo 6)

3. Fold the edges of both fabrics inside and stitch with the straight stitch. (photo 6)

I used the third option. (picture 7)

So now you've stitched together everything that needed stitching. You can also stitch through the upper edge of the sock to make it look more neat but there's a point in doing it only if you don't want to roll the edge. (picture 8)

Take out the pins from the foot top and heel and stitch through both fabrics in the seam and in hand. It's enough to stitch through a few centimeters. This stitching will prevent the lining from moving as you wear the socks. (picture 9)

If you want the edge of the sock rolled, just roll it as much as you want (in my case about 6 cm) and fold the edge in a bit. (picture 10)

Stitch through the edge with a miniature stitch so that the thread disappears. I stitched only few times every 6 cm, cut the thread and continued 6 cm further (I also stitched the edges). So my socks are not stitched along the whole rolled down edge. (picture 11)

Mark where you want the grommets to be. (picture 1)

Punch holes and install the grommets. (picture 2)

Your sock is basically done, you just need to insert the lace and create the pompoms if you want. (picture 3)

Insert the lace in the grommets. (picture 1)

I put the pompoms on the ends of both laces, that gives 4 pompoms in total. If you want to do the same: cut one circle for each pompom, the diameter is 10 cm. (picture 2)

Stitch 0,5 cm from the edge using a running stitch. (picture 3)

Pull on the thread and when the pompom starts to close, fill it. I used trimmings of the same fabric. (picture 4)

Close the pompom some more and stitch a few times across the edges to secure the closing. (pictures 5 and 6)

Before you close the pompom completely, insert the end of the lace. Then continue stitching across and through the edges but this time always pass the needle also through the lace. When the pompom is closed completely, know and cut the thread. (pictures 7 and 8)

Be warm and stay warm!