Book of the Dead Book Cover

by Red5ive in Craft > Books & Journals

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Book of the Dead Book Cover

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I have to keep a Log Book for work. It's dull and I thought, why not geek-ify it!

I thought of maybe making it an old Spell book, but then I remembered 'The Book of the Dead' from the movie "The Mummy". There are many jokes that could be made of that being my log book for work.... But I just wanted something that was fun! I couldn't make it exactly like the prop as I'd never be able to carry it around with me, however I do feel this is a fun alternative.

This project was made using a few different methods. Tools and materials needed are:

  • Access to a 3D printer
  • Dremel Rotary Tool
  • Angle grinder with a cutting disk
  • Hammer
  • Ruler
  • Some small clamps
  • A small piece of leather
  • 4 small rare earth magnets
  • A small 1/16 inch thick piece of metal
  • Contact Cement (Barge works great) Make sure you read the instructions on how to use this properly
  • Flat black spray paint
  • Metalic Gold Testors paint

The Cover

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As you can see, my log book is pretty bland.

I started by measuring the cover dimensions. I did not add the coil binding into the measurement because if the cover was over that part it would not open and close properly. My cover dimensions were a little under 6 inches by 9 1/2 inches. I wanted my cover to go past the log book pages to protect them so i made it the full 6x9 1/2. If you were binding a regular book, I would extend the covers to the edge of the book.

I was hoping to find something mostly done already so I went to Thingiverse.com. I lucked out and there were a few projects by other people already done. They were for the full prop but I would be able to modify them for my needs.

I've added the files here that I used. My book has an angry beaver on the back, the images available of the prop do not have enough detail to work with so I personalized it for me. If you don't like that I also added the file of the back cover with a blank center so you can add whatever you choose. The files are sized for my book but can be easily adjusted to what you need with a program like Ultimaker Cura. I found that the book pages were a little too thick for my liking so I Used Cura to lower the file into the print bed to cut off the bottom of the pages and make them thinner.

Once printed I spray painted both covers a matt black. I then took a makeup sponge and put a little gold paint on it. I used the sponge on the large circle piece (which is meant to be the 'lock' of the book) first as it is supposed to be mostly gold. I say mostly as by leaving some of it black in the deep areas it looks like dirt that has built up over time. With the large piece done and most of the paint off the sponge I then went lightly over the rest of the cover, dry brushing where I felt it would look good. The Book is supposed to be made of Gold, and then painted black. I used the dry brushing technique to make it look like the black paint had been worn off in places over time. I used a small brush to get into the star area of the lock and into the beetle in the star. again I left some parts black to make it look dirty. I also used the small brush to paint the outside edge of the lock.

I had already painted the cover when I decided to make this Instructable, so I used the back cover to demonstrate the gold painting process.

The Binding

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For the binding I went to my local leather shop and bought a small scrap of leather in the colour I liked. It cost me under $30.

[Picture 1] I cut the leather to the height of the cover pages, which for me was 9 1/2 inched high. For the width I laid the book open and went an extra 3 or 4 inches on each side. This is a judgment call on how much extra you need. You need to be able to slide the pages in once done, but you also have to leave enough room for the book to float inside the cover. A spiral bound book needs to move left and right as well as up and down as you open and close it. So make sure you leave a little extra ll around when you calculate your sizes.

[Picture 2] I 'dry fit' the flaps that will hold the book cover and back when done. I marked where I wanted the flaps to stop with a pen, they are the red arrows in the photo.

[Picture 3] I wanted to use the rough side of the leather on the outside. So I would be gluing the two smooth sides together. The Contact cement does not work the best on the smooth side. It works, but can be pealed apart if you try. So before I applied the cement I took my hobby knife and sliced up and roughed up where the glue would go. This way it would have something to bight into and hold really well. I then applied the glue to both the top and bottom of the one side. I've had other projects where I glue too far ahead and then end up leaning on it or touching it and making a right mess....

[Picture 4] With contact cement you only get one chance to glue things together. So I used a small piece of parchment paper to cover the bottom part while I lined up the top. Once the top was pressed together I pulled out the paper and set the bottom. I then did the same for the other side of the binding.

[Picture 5 and 6] The piece that was folded over had a bit of a bulge to it. To fix this I used an Iron with a cloth to flatten it. Do not Iron the leather directly or you will have a nice burnt spot that looks like the bottom of an iron.

Preping the Cover for the Clasps

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I wanted my book to have clasps to hold it closed when no in use. The easiest way to do that was with magnets. I bought 4, 3/8 inch rare earth magnets (LeeValley has a good selection that are inexpensive. I think I paid $1 for each). Rare Earth magnets have a really strong hold through plastic with no issues.

I planned out where I wanted my magnets and then used my Dremel rotary tool to grind out, on the back side of the cover, just enough material for the magnets to sit into. I wanted them flush on the back so when I glued the cover to the leather there would be no bumps sticking out.

Making the Clasps

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[Picture 1 and 2] Using my leather scraps I cut two strips about eight inches long and an inch wide.

[Picture 3 and 4] Using the Angle Grinder and the 1/16 inch steel plate I planned out a cut that was about 3/8 of an inch wider than the straps. I also marked a line the width of the straps on the plate.

[Picture 5] I wanted to cut two tabs that were about 3/4 of an inch long. But before I cut them off completely, I used the grinder to score the lines in Picture 4. I cut about halfway through the plate. The reason of this is so it would be easier to bend the plates later. You can see the score lines that were cut in Picture 6.

[Picture 6] I used some vice grips and pressing against the floor of my garage I bent the sides of the tabs 90 degrees.

[Picture 7] The outside of the tabs I roughed up with the grinder so they would look beat up once painted. I then painted the outside of both tabs with the flat black spray paint.

[Picture 8] The other two magnets I had I placed on the cover to make sue I had the polarity right. I would have cried if I had gone through all that to have them not stick together. I marked each one with a black dot (the red arrows). This way when I placed them on the leather strips I knew to have the black dot face down, [Picture 9].

[Picture 10] I glued the middle of the straps (so there would be about 4 inches ish on each side) to the Metal tab I made earlier using the contact cement. I placed the magnet (Black dot down) on the metal tab and placed glue over the whole leather strip and let sit until tacky. I then folded the strap onto itself to seal the magnet inside.

[Picture 11] Using a hammer and a cloth, I bent the tabs of the end of the leather straps. If you hit the metal directly you run the risk of scraping your paint off. You might have to touch up your paint either way. I did scratch up mine, but I think it adds to the beat up look i was after.

Glueing the Cover On.

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While writing this Instructable I realized I forgot to take photos of this step. Oops.. I've used the picture I took of glueing the back here as the process is the same.

Place the leather binding pocket side down and dry fit the cover to line up with the leather edges. Mark the leather where the cover extends to so you don't run glue farther than you have to.

Using the Contact cement, glue both sides and wait for them to become tacky. Press them together when ready.

Glueing the Clasps to the Back Binding

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Before you glue the back cover to the leather binding you need to attach the clasps. This can be a little tricky. You want the clasps to be taught when in use. Too loose and they won't work properly.

[Picture 1] I put my log book into the leather binding so I would have the correct spacing I needed. I put the clasps under the bottom leather binding so that the metal clasps were hanging out. Using a metal ruler to hold the bottom leather cover down I pulled each clasp out just enough to attach it to the front cover. I used 4 small clamps to hold the ruler in place [Picture 2]

[Picture 3] holding the straps in place underneath I flipped the book over and marked out the strap placement on the back.

[Picture 4] Using the contact cement I glued the straps to the back of the leather binding. The back cover will be glued over this when done.

Glue the Back Cover On

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Just like the front cover, use the back cover to mark where it will go so you don't over glue.

Press the back cover on once the glue is tacky. The clasps should hang out when done as seen in the photo.

The Book Mark.

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I added a permanent book mark with a scrap of leather that was about a half inch wide and 11 inches long.

Using the contact cement I glued the end of the strip right next to the top left side of the back pocket.

Finished

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I really enjoyed making this book cover. It only took me a couple of days so it was a really quick project. Waiting for paint to dry was the longest part. I spent about $40 to make this cover. I already had a scrap piece of metal and the paints, so the actual cost would be a little more if you had to buy everything.

I have used the book once at work already and one thing I would recommend is you may have to let the book sit for a few days for the fumes of the contact cement to go away. I had the book in my work bag and when I opened it that's all I could smell. I'll be letting that air for a bit too..

I'm just waiting for someone to yell at me at work now, ".... DON'T READ FROM THE BOOK!!!"