Bike Helmet Ear Warmers

I bike year-round in Oslo, Norway, which means I endure long, cold winters—and freezing ears! Wearing a hat under my helmet makes it slip around, so I designed these ear warmers instead.

In this Instructable, I'll show you how to pattern and sew your own custom ear warmers to fit your specific bike helmet.

This project is perfect for beginners, with detailed step-by-step instructions and photos to guide you along.

Tools:

1. Sewing machine or sewing needle (if sewing by hand)
2. Lighter or matches (to prevent webbing from fraying)
3. Pencil (for drafting the pattern)
4. Pencil or chalk (for marking the fabric)
5. Paper scissors
6. Fabric scissors
7. Ruler (15 cm or longer)
8. Masking tape or regular tape
9. Sewing clips or pins

Materials:

1. 8 snap buttons or 8 pieces of velcro (1.5 × 1.5 cm each)
2. 2 pieces of fabric (approximately 15 × 20 cm each) for the outside of the ear warmers
3. 2 pieces of fabric (approximately 15 × 20 cm each) for the inside of the ear warmers
4. 40 cm of webbing (20–25 mm wide), cut into 8 pieces (5 cm each)
5. 1 sheet of A4 or letter-size paper
6. Sewing thread (in your chosen colors)

Choosing the fabric:

This is a great project for using up fabric scraps! For the inside of the ear warmers, I highly recommend a fabric with a pile, such as fake fur or sherpa fleece, to help block the wind. You can also use sheepskin or other furs if preferred.

For this Instructable, I am using thick faux leather for the outside and synthetic sherpa fleece for the inside.

Alternative to Webbing:

If you don’t have webbing, you can make your own by sewing long fabric strips right sides together, turning them inside out, pressing them with an iron, and topstitching along the edges.

Since every bike helmet is slightly different, I'll guide you through making a custom pattern instead of providing a pre-made one. You'll only need to do this step once, as we’ll mirror the pattern for the opposite side.

1. Position the Paper:
2. Place a piece of paper inside your helmet, positioning it against the straps as shown in the picture.
3. Trace the Shape:
4. Use a pencil to outline where you want the ear warmers to sit.
5. Mark where the helmet straps will pass through. The lower straps should rest at the bottom of the helmet straps to prevent the ear warmers from sliding down.
6. Refine the Shape:
7. Remove the paper and complete any unfinished lines.
8. Use a ruler to straighten any edges as needed.

1. Add Seam Allowance:
2. Lower edges: Add a 10 mm seam allowance (or adjust to your preference). To keep it even, make small dots 10 mm from the edge at intervals and connect them with a line.
3. Top edge: Add an extra 20 mm allowance (30 mm in total with 10 mm seam allowance) to ensure the ear warmers stay tucked inside the helmet during use.
4. Adjust if Needed:
5. If your seam allowance extends beyond the paper’s edge, tape on an extra piece of paper to fill the gap before cutting.
6. Finalize the Pattern:
7. Cut out the pattern.
8. Mark and notch the areas where the straps will attach.

1. Trace the Pattern:
2. Place the pattern on your fabric and trace it.
3. Cut two pieces from the outside fabric and two from the inside fabric (for a total of four pieces).
4. Mirror the Pieces:
5. Flip the pattern over when cutting the second set to ensure you get mirrored pieces.
6. Mark the Strap Placement:
7. On the outside fabric, mark the start and end points of the straps using the notches from your paper pattern.

Tip: If you're using fake or real fur, cut from the back side with a utility knife instead of scissors. This way, you'll only cut the fabric backing, preventing the fur from getting chopped.

1. Cut and Seal the Webbing:
2. Cut the webbing into eight 5 cm pieces.
3. Use a lighter to seal the edges and prevent fraying.
4. Attach Fasteners:
5. Sew one end of each webbing piece to a snap fastener or velcro piece (1.5 × 1.5 cm).
6. It doesn’t matter whether you attach the male or female side, as long as you stay consistent.

1. Mark and Position the Webbing on the outside fabric:
2. Using the markings on the fabric’s back, cut a tiny (1 mm) notch with scissors.
3. Turn the fabric right side up and arrange the webbing pieces.
4. Adjust their placement if needed, ensuring your helmet straps will still fit through.
5. Secure the Webbing:
6. Attach the webbing pieces to the fabric using pins or tape.
7. Tip: If working with leather or faux leather, avoid pins (they leave permanent holes). Instead, use masking tape to hold the webbing in place.
8. Sew the Webbing:
9. Stitch the webbing pieces within the seam allowance so the stitches will be hidden when everything is assembled.
10. Trim any excess webbing extending beyond the fabric edge and reseal with a lighter.
11. Repeat for the Other Side.

1. Align the Fasteners:
2. Use the snap fasteners on the webbing as a guide to determine where to place the remaining fasteners on the fabric.
3. Mark the Placement:
4. Press the snap fastener firmly against the fabric—this should leave a slight imprint, making it easy to find the exact center point.
5. Attach the Remaining Fasteners:
6. Secure the snaps according to the manufacturer’s instructions, ensuring they align properly with those on the webbing.

1. Align the Fabric Pieces:
2. Place the inside and outside fabric pieces together, right sides facing each other.
3. Secure them with sewing clips or pins.
4. Double-check that you are not mixing up the left and right sides—they may look similar!
5. Mark an Opening:
6. On the top edge, mark a 5–6 cm wide opening. This will be left unstitched for turning the fabric right side out.
7. Sew the Edges:
8. Stitch around the entire edge except for the opening.
9. Clip the Curves & Trim Corners:
10. Carefully cut small notches into any curved edges—this will help the fabric lay smoothly when turned inside out.
11. Trim any sharp corners, but be sure to leave a few millimeters of fabric near the stitches to prevent fraying or weakening the seam.

1. Turn Inside Out & Check Fit:
2. Gently turn the ear warmers right side out.
3. Attach them to your helmet to ensure they fit properly.
4. Make any necessary adjustments before closing the opening.
5. Close the Opening:
6. Use a ladder stitch for an invisible finish, or simply sew it shut with a regular stitch on the sewing machine.
7. Since this stitch won’t be visible once the ear warmers are on the helmet, I chose the easier sewing machine option.

Enjoy & Ride Safely! Your new ear warmers are ready to use—stay warm and ride safely! 🚴‍♂️❄️