Bevel Ease 45

Bevel Ease 45 Dowel Blank Maker

As a retired industrial arts (shop) teacher, I've had time to discover new techniques and process for creating wood projects. One that’s intrigued me is the building of a wood box with a hidden hinge.

The appeal of this hinge is that it almost disappears when finished

An internet search will produce many instructions for constructing the hinge. The process consists of routing grooves in the top and bottom edges of the back of the box with a round nose bit the same diameter as a dowel.

Rather than go into the complete details, I suggest searching for videos showing the process.

(See Photo 3)

Custom Dowel

A critical element in the hidden hinge is the size of the dowel. A custom dowel made to a specific diameter is important in this hinge project for several reasons:

1.Wood is sensitive to temperature and humidity and has a tendency to change size. Dowels purchased from a supplier may not be a full advertised size due to shrinkage or expansion after manufacture and delivery to a merchant;

2.Wood choice may be limited.

A woodworker can custom make dowels to suit the project by cutting a square piece of wood and running it through a dowel sizer – a die that cuts a piece of wood through various sizes until it is rounded to the desired diameter as shown in the following page.

The dowel sizer is a steel plate with various holes of sharp dies. The rod can be pounded through a succession of hole sizes or it can be mounted in a hand drill and pressed through the dies as shown in the photo 3.

The metal plate is mounted on the surface of a box designed to be held in a bench vise or clamped to a bench on the left and right out boards. Securing the plate in the vertical position makes pushing the rod through the die while the drill spins it. Body mass helps push the rod easier.

The rod that’s shown above has had the corners trimmed on the router table to 45o.

After attempting to safely move the rod across the table router bit with hand held orange paddles (see next page), it became obvious that a safer method was necessary. The result is the Bevel Ease 45.

James Vander Schaff, in his excellent video, “Making the Hidden Wood Dowel Hinge Box,” (https://youtu.be/o7NYRrgXNrg), showed a better way of preparing the rod for rounding: instead of trying to force a square rod through the dowel sizer, it became much easier when the corners were trimmed to 45o.

The photos with the orange paddles show the square rod on the router table with a bit to cut the 45o angle. While it is possible to use hand pad holders to pass the wood through the cutter, a safer method is preferred. (See photo 2).

A narrow piece of wood passed through the cutter needs to meet the following safety requirements:

1. It must be held tight to the fence;

2. It must be held firmly down on the table;

3. It must move laterally (from right to left) as the bit trims the corner; and,

4.Most importantly, the operator’s hands and fingers must be protected from the bit.

An additional benefit is that many rods can be trimmed without changing measurements after the initial setup.

Development of the Bevel Ease 45

Bevel Ease 45is designed to trim the corners of a square length of wood prior to rounding it into a dowel. These photos (See photos 5) show the hold-down pad of the Bevel Ease 45 raised to accept the square rod.

Bevel Ease 45 Parts

The Bevel Ease 45 is a compact push stick. It’s made from a log given by a neighbor. The ends of the log were painted to seal the end grain and retard rapid and uneven drying.

After a year, the log was cut into 1 1/2” thick slabs and checked with a moisture meter. The moisture content was too high (the wood was wet) to use. Any project made would shrink and warp as it dried and be useless.

The slabs were placed in a humidity-controlled storage unit for six to eight months where the moisture content dropped sufficiently to be used.

It is suspected that the wood is a type of maple due to its hardness, tight grain, and pattern and color.

(See photo 6)

A Push block base

B Mounting blocks

C Hinge pin holes

D Clamp-down paddle base

E Clamp-down paddle handle

F Hinge rods with rod grips

Wood Moisture Content

Wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity. The goal is to dry it to the equilibrium moisture content (EMC) of the environment where it will be used.

Here’s a general guide:

Indoor furniture, cabinets, flooring (climate-controlled homes): 🔹 6–8% moisture content is standard in most of the U.S. (can be as low as 5% in desert climates or as high as 10% in humid coastal areas).

Bevel Ease 45 Tools and Materials

Tools

Philips Head Screw Driver

Brad Awl

Pencil

Square

Drill (Bench Press or Hand)

3/8” d. Brad Point Drill Bit

#8 Countersink Screw Pilot Drill Bit

Parallel Clamp or Drill Press Vice

Router Table (or Hand Router)

Router Bits – Round over Bit, Chamfer Bit or V Groove Bit

Ruler

Thickness Planer

Table Saw or Hand Jig Saw (Saber Saw)

Materials

Maple or any Hard Wood

(A) Push Block Base ¾” x 3 1/8” x 16 1/2”

(B) Mounting Blocks (2) 2 ¼” x 2 ¼”

(D) Clamp Down Paddle

Base ½” x 3” x 12”

Hold Down Bar 3/8” x ¾” x 12”

Back ½” x 1 ¼” x 12

(E) Clamp Down Handle ¾” x 2 ¼” x 6”

(F) Hinge Rods With Grips (2)

Dowel (2) 3/8” x 5”

Grip (2) 1” x 1” x 2”

(4) #8 x 1 ¼” Wood Screws (Phillips Head)

Carpenters Glue

Masking Tape

Double Stick Tape

Glue Brush

1. Cut the base to size.2. Lay out the dimensions on the surface of the base. (Photo 7)

3. Bevel the top edges with a 1/4” to 3/8”round over router bit. Do the 2 end grain edges first. (Photos 8 and 9)

A push block as shown in the photo to the right will hold the narrow part of the base square against the fence and reduce the amount of chipping across the end grain.

Any chipping or tear out that may occur will be negligible and can be smoothed off when the edge grain is cut.

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The router safety push block shown above was found and duplicated at John Sexton’s Biscuit Tree Woodworks video site called, “7 Simple Jigs That Beat Expensive Woodworking Tools!” at https://youtu.be/PXRkeh4wb24.

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4. Drill the 3/8” hole in the location shown on the previous page.

5. Cut the edge on the band saw or jig saw to the size shown on the previous page.

NOTE: Cut the short section first to avoid crimping the blade when the longer cut is made.

(See photo 10)

1. Cut 2 blocks ¾” thick x 2 ½” wide x 2 ¼” high x 2 1/4” high.

2. Locate 3/8” hole as shown in drawing. Using the Kreg Marking Tool ruler (no sponsorship or connection) makes laying out repeated and consistent measurements easy and dependable.

(See photos 11 and 12)

The two mounting blocks should be clamped and drilled together. Be sure to drill with a piece of scrap wood on the bottom to reduce tearing of the bottom piece.

3. Trace circles on top corners. Select a coin with the diameter of your choice and trace around it on the two top corners. The diameter isn’t critical.

4. Trim the corners and sand them round to the line. (See photos 13 - 16)

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NOTE: While the photos show a mixed sequence, the order doesn’t matter. Drilling the two blocks together, however, will insure correct placement of the holes in both pieces.

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(See photos 17 and 18)

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NOTE:A parallel clamp will hold the two pieces together.

As a safety precaution, place the clamp handle and the corner of the bottom scrap piece at the left side of the drill press column.

This will prevent the work from spinning and injuring the operator if the bit becomes jammed (highly unlikely).

This safety precaution should be standard in all drilling operations.

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1. Place masking tape in the area of the mounting block and draw lines on it. Use a square to make sure that the lines are 90 degrees.

2. Lay out the lines on the base at both ends.

3. Use the brad awl to punch the four holes.

4. Select two thin brads and find the size using a drill gauge similar to the one at the right.

5. Find a drill bit the same size and lock it into the drill press.

6. Drill the two holes in each block. (See photos 19 and 20)

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NOTE: Look at the placement of the wood in (Photo 21). If the bit catches and swings the wood, it will hit the wall and stop and the operator will be safe.

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7. Check the holes with a brad to make sure that the brad is tight. (See photo 22)

8. Cut two brads to approximately 13/16” from the brad point and insert them from the bottom so that the tips stick up. (See photo 23)

9. Cut a piece of double stick tape and press a straight edge wood piece against the outer line.

10. Place a piece of steel (an old wrench was sufficient) under the base and the brad heads. Line up the mounting block against the wood piece. It should be even with the cut front edge. (See photos 24)

11. Press firmly to make indents in the bottom of the mounting block where the brads stick above the base. Do this for both blocks.

12. Use the brad awl to press a starting hole where the brad indentations as located. (See photo 25)

13. The holes will be drilled to accommodate the #8 x 1 1/4” flat head wood screws. The Photo 27 shows the architecture of the screw with its varying diameters. A special bit is needed to prevent the wood from splitting.

14. Use either a countersink screw pilot bit or a taper drill bit with countersink and drill the four holes on the bottom of the base. Be sure to drill far enough into the base so that the screw head will sit below the surface. (See photos 26)

15. Clamp the mounting blocks in the drill press vice and drill the hole about 1/2” deep. (See photo 28)

16. When all the holes are drilled it’s time to screw the mounting blocks to the base. Seasoned wood workers have found that rubbing dry bar soap on the threads will improve the cutting action and prevent the heads from breaking due to friction and a tight fit. (See photo 29)

17. Remove the masking tape and screw the mounting blocks to the base.

18. Carefully place strips of painter’s tape along the bottom edges of the mounting blocks. (See photo 30)

19. Unscrew the mounting blocks.

20. Dab glue on the bottom of the mounting blocks. Be careful to avoid glue dripping over the edge. (See photo 31)

21. Screw both pieces in place on the base and allow to dry overnight.

22. Carefully scrape any dried glue and remove the tape.

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HINT: Mix a drop of glue and water and paste the end grain - wait until it’s dry before gluing to base. Thew water mixture will seal the end grain.

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The Clamp Down Paddle is designed to hold the square rod against the fence and down on the table. It will pivot to allow easy change of the rod position by flipping up and down.

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NOTE: It is made of four pieces of wood: 1.paddle base, 2. back, 3. hold-down bar, and 4. the handle. Cut the three pieces 1" longer and cut to length when glue has dried.

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1. Cut the paddle 1/2” x 3” x 12”. The space between the mounting blocks on the base is 11 5/16”. The paddle will be 1/16” narrower (11 1/4”) than the space between the mounting blocks to make movement easier.

2. Cut the back 1/2” x 1 1/4” x 12”.

3. Cut the hold-down bar 1/2” x 3/8” x 12”.

4. Glue the three pieces and trim to 11 1/4” when glue sets.

5. Lay out the dimensions as shown at right at both ends.

6. Lay out the dimensions as shown on the back.

7. Use the brad awl to punch a hole in the center of the 3/8” hole. (See photos 32 and 33)

8. Lock a 3/8” brad point bit into the drill press chuck.

9. Clamp the paddle so that sits flat on the table. Use either a vice as shown or a parallel clamp.

10. Use a square to make sure that the drill is at 90o with the paddle.

11. Tape a piece of masking tape on the surface as shown and place a 2” mark with a pencil.

12. Set the depth of the drill to stop at the 2” line.

13. Line the tip of the brad point drill bit with the center of the circle and drill.

14. Repeat the process for the other end.

15. Use a 3/8” round over bit to shape the back.

16. The handle is 3/4” x 2 1/4” x 6”.

17. Mark and shaped the top corners as was done on the mounting blocks.

18. Round off the 2 1/4” ends first and then the top (sand the top round angle). (See photo 36)

19. While finger grips are not essential, making an indention seemed useful as shown below. Note: Photo 37 shows the sides rounded. The drawing at right shows 1\8” router bit and 1/8 indent in profile.

20. The next step is to attach the handle to the paddle base.

Attach Handle to Base

Attaching the handle to the paddle base requires locating the screw holes accurately. (See photos 38 and 39)

1. Locate the center.

2. Measure half the distance of the handle and place marks.

3. Measure in from both sides 1” and use the brad awl to punch a hole.

4. Drill a thin hole through the base.

5. Clamp the handle against the back.

Turn over and drill the two screw holes with the countersink drill bit as was done in step 14 in 3.Securing Mounting Block. Make sure to rub the screws against the bar of soap to prevent stripping the head of the flat head Phillips screw.

The hinge rod is made up of a 3/8” rod and a rod grip handle. The handle can be a 1” dowel or a 1” square piece of wood. The finished piece will be approximately 4” long. (See photos 40 and 41)

1. Cut the dowel or square block to 2”.

2. Cut the 3/8” dowel to 5”. Round one end over (this will be the front end of the rod grip). Mark 25/8” from the rounded end.

3. Stand the rod grips on end and locate the centers .Press a hole into the rod grip end with the brad awl. Drill a 3/8” hole with a brad point bit as shown in the mounting block sequence.

4. Slide the 3/8” dowel into the rod grip to the mark from the rounded end.

5. Test the fit. If the 3/8” rod is too tight in either the mounting block or the paddle, sand it down as using a hand drill as shown.

6. Slide the grip off and spread a small amount of glue in the holes. Slide the 3/8” dowel from the back end of the 3/8” dowel to the 2 5/8” mark and allow to dry.

If a 1” dowel was used, sand flat areas as shown.

1. Slide the paddle between the mounting blocks.

2. Align the holes and insert the hinge rod.

3. The Bevel Ease 45 is complete.

1. The square rod is pushed into the front edge against the fixed stop.

2. The unit is placed on the router table with the 45o bit locked in.

3. Press the paddle down firmly on the table and tight to the fence.

4. Turn the router on.

5. Move the unit from right to left at a slow speed to allow the bit to cut smoothly.

6. Pull the unit back when the rod has been cut.

7. Repeat the process until the rod is completely shaped.

The Bevel Ease 45 can be used as a safe push stick on the router.

This 3/4” x 3/4” rod had to be shaped for corners of a box. It was clamped in the Bevel Ease 45 and used as a push stick across the router keeping the work firmly pressed down and against the fence.

Photos 45 to 47 show preliminary clamping of the test pieces.

The square length was easily cut on the Bevel Ease 45. Four pieces were cut from two rods the length of the box sides for the four corners.

It is anticipated that a project plan will be prepared for future publication. Part of that will be the hidden wood hinge for which the Bevel Ease 45 was designed using dowel sections.

There are a variety of shapes that this device can make on the router table.

Continual use will damage the stop locator as shown in the Photo 48.

The fact that the base is wood allows for easy repair. The worn piece can be trimmed on a saw and another stop can be glued on.

There was need for a tight fit for a steel spacer in a piece of wood.Three bits were drilled into in a piece of scrap wood.

The results revealed that the spade bit was a loose/sloppy fit. The Forstner Bit was snug. The twist drill gave the most accurate result - the spacer had to be pressed into the hole and was anchored for best use.

Before drilling into a piece of wood, consider the fit. The Bevel Ease 45 is designed to move easily and a loose hole (slightly larger) fit very well.

This Bevel Ease 45 has been used for a variety of router operations machining small pieces of wood that would be considered dangerous when using other means.

When designing jigs or fixtures it's important to be guided by safety. As I told my woodworking students when using the table saw, "It only takes around 30 seconds for the saw blade to stop and as much as 6 hours to reattach a finger. Wait until the blade stops spinning before moving wood." Respect the machines and use them with caution. Use available push sticks and safe procedures when cutting materials.