Belt Sander Mount

My belt sander has a “T” handle at the front. I wanted to use that to make a simple 3-point support for the sander to be mounted upside down. The photo shows my mount in place. It can be removed quickly by loosening one screw held by a wing nut.

This project could be made in wood, but with modifications.

1/8 x 1/2 inch steel bar

1/8 x 3/4 inch steel bar

3/4 x 3/4 inch square tubing (13 inches long)

#10 machine screw and wing nut

I need two loops to fit on the rounded ends of the “T” handle. I had a piece of junk steel that was once part of home exercise equipment. Part of it is a round piece 3/4 inch in diameter. I used a Vise-Grip pliers to hold 1/2 inch wide steel bar so I could bend it around half the diameter of the round piece on the exercise equipment. There was some fitting with a hammer and a slip joint pliers. I needed to make two of these loops so I would have one for each side. See the second photo.

When the loops fit around the ends of the “T” handle in a satisfactory way, trim the ends as shown in the first photo. See also the second photo. Cut a straight piece of 1/2 inch steel bar to fit across the ends of the “C” loops one at a time. I used spring clamps as shown and welded the straight pieces to the “C” loops. I custom fit each loop to the end of the “T” handle where it will be used when all is complete.

The loops need to be welded to 1/8 x 3/4 inch buffer or spacer pieces of steel to allow enough clearance above the 3/4 x 3/4 inch square tubing. The case of the sander is a type of plastic. I do not want to damage it with heat from welding. I have had to relearn several times to fit things according to the way a situation is rather than the way I expect it should be. Because of that, I need to have the sander in place as it will be in use. Make a quick tack weld that does fuse both pieces well, but get the sander’s “T” handle out of each loop as soon as possible. This all worked better than I feared it might. Be aware one of the loops cannot be welded to the square tubing, but must be removable at will. After the sander has been removed, complete welds to be certain the loops are secured to the spacer pieces.

Weld bead may have flowed into the area to be occupied by the end of the “T” handle. Smooth it with a file to guarantee the “T” handle still fits. The loop shown in the photo is the other loop, not the one shown in step 3.

The loop on one side and its spacer will be welded to the square tubing. The loop on the other side will be welded to its spacer, but removable. The first photo shows the removable loop on the “T” handle. A piece of 1/8 x 3/4 inch steel bar has been welded to the spacer piece at a right angle. See the second photo. I drilled a hole in it for a #10 machine screw. In the first photo I am preparing to drill through the square tubing for the #10 screw. Check to be certain the loop assembly is on the “T” handle as firmly as possible, and is also firmly against the square tubing.

To use, slip the non-removable side of the fixture onto the “T” handle. Slip the removable loop onto the “T” handle and the square tube. Insert the #10 screw and tighten the retaining nut. Set the sander down on a table top. Lock the sander’s switch “on” and sand what is needed.