Bag Made of a Wooden Clog With Crocheted Mill
by jmdushi in Craft > Knitting & Crochet
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Bag Made of a Wooden Clog With Crocheted Mill
For this Instructable I used the American abbreviations crochet stitches.
A while ago I bought a number of rejected wooden clogs. I didn't know what to do with them straight away, but the possibilities of clogs are endless. For example, in addition to wear them, in the north of the Netherlands they are also used to collect lock money. When a ship passes a lock, the lock keeper lowers a clog on a fishing rod and the skipper puts the amount due to be allowed through the lock into the clog. This way of collecting money is included in the list of intangible heritage. Birdhouses, sailing ships, flower pots or money boxes are also made from it.
We used to wear clogs, not on the street but in our garden while playing. These clogs were made by the wooden shoes maker who lived opposite my grandfather. He made the clogs exactly to size for you, completely by hand without using any power tools. For me, it seemed only logical not to use power tools, but if you prefer to use power tools then that’s fine off course.
I love bags and sometimes it is nice to have a special bag that you do not see everywhere and one that is preferably made of unusual material. For example, I previously made a bag from a paper bag, which is still in use and with that pile of clogs in mind, I thought about whether it would be possible to make a bag out of it.
The base of the bag has therefore become a clog. To stay in the Dutch style, I crocheted a windmill in blue as a decoration, as a nod to Delft Blue. The mill can also be used as an application, only then leave the iron wire out of the blades. The green with red beads on the side of the mill are free style tulips.
A while ago I bought a number of rejected wooden clogs. I didn't know what to do with them straight away, but the possibilities of clogs are endless. For example, in addition to wear them, in the north of the Netherlands they are also used to collect lock money. When a ship passes a lock, the lock keeper lowers a clog on a fishing rod and the skipper puts the amount due to be allowed through the lock into the clog. This way of collecting money is included in the list of intangible heritage. Birdhouses, sailing ships, flower pots or money boxes are also made from it.
We used to wear clogs, not on the street but in our garden while playing. These clogs were made by the wooden shoes maker who lived opposite my grandfather. He made the clogs exactly to size for you, completely by hand without using any power tools. For me, it seemed only logical not to use power tools, but if you prefer to use power tools then that’s fine off course.
I love bags and sometimes it is nice to have a special bag that you do not see everywhere and one that is preferably made of unusual material. For example, I previously made a bag from a paper bag, which is still in use and with that pile of clogs in mind, I thought about whether it would be possible to make a bag out of it.
The base of the bag has therefore become a clog. To stay in the Dutch style, I crocheted a windmill in blue as a decoration, as a nod to Delft Blue. The mill can also be used as an application, only then leave the iron wire out of the blades. The green with red beads on the side of the mill are free style tulips.
Supplies
Material
wooden clog
Felt (blue)
Leather (brown)
Hinge with screws
Rope
Wooden button about ø 2.3 cm
Iron wire 20 gauge
8 small beads for the blades (suitable for double iron wire)
White cotton
Dark blue cotton
Mid blue cotton
Green cotton
Brown thin cotton
Red beads
5 small copper nails (1.5 cm)
4 small beads that fit on the nails (Max 0.5 cm)
Red thread
Tools:
Crochet hook 2.50 (US C / 2, UK 12)
Darning needle (eye suitable for the cotton)
Needle
Glue
Scissors
Ruler or tape measure
Pencil
Handsaw
Various sizes of hand drills
Gouge or chisel
Screwdriver
Hammer
Small awl
Revolving punch pliers
Graph paper 5 mm
Adhesive tape
wooden clog
Felt (blue)
Leather (brown)
Hinge with screws
Rope
Wooden button about ø 2.3 cm
Iron wire 20 gauge
8 small beads for the blades (suitable for double iron wire)
White cotton
Dark blue cotton
Mid blue cotton
Green cotton
Brown thin cotton
Red beads
5 small copper nails (1.5 cm)
4 small beads that fit on the nails (Max 0.5 cm)
Red thread
Tools:
Crochet hook 2.50 (US C / 2, UK 12)
Darning needle (eye suitable for the cotton)
Needle
Glue
Scissors
Ruler or tape measure
Pencil
Handsaw
Various sizes of hand drills
Gouge or chisel
Screwdriver
Hammer
Small awl
Revolving punch pliers
Graph paper 5 mm
Adhesive tape
From Clog to Bag
First of all, I checked whether I would keep the clog in one piece or would saw it through at a certain point. Leaving it whole makes it difficult to get things in and out, so I sawed the clog.
I looked at what seemed the best point to saw through and marked the clog there. I saw the clog with a handsaw. After I saw I made holes with a hand drill in both parts of the clog to let the rope (handle) run through.
I provided both clog parts with felt on the inside and then carefully cut away the felt for the drilled holes. Because the felt is difficult to fit because of all this e curves, I glued the felt in parts. After the felt I covered the saw cuts of both parts with leather. With the help of a mold I glued a strip of leather on the outside of the clog and on the edge.
There is now a small crack between the leather, I solved this by crocheting a chain of thin brown cotton and gluing it between the two leather parts.
Finally, I marked the hinge and chiseled out the place where the hinge will be placed slightly so that the hinge is recessed. The hinge is secured with 4 copper screws. I have coated the clog with one layer Danish Oil.
I looked at what seemed the best point to saw through and marked the clog there. I saw the clog with a handsaw. After I saw I made holes with a hand drill in both parts of the clog to let the rope (handle) run through.
I provided both clog parts with felt on the inside and then carefully cut away the felt for the drilled holes. Because the felt is difficult to fit because of all this e curves, I glued the felt in parts. After the felt I covered the saw cuts of both parts with leather. With the help of a mold I glued a strip of leather on the outside of the clog and on the edge.
There is now a small crack between the leather, I solved this by crocheting a chain of thin brown cotton and gluing it between the two leather parts.
Finally, I marked the hinge and chiseled out the place where the hinge will be placed slightly so that the hinge is recessed. The hinge is secured with 4 copper screws. I have coated the clog with one layer Danish Oil.
The Strap
I measured a piece of rope to the length that I wanted for the strap, I calculated 40 cm extra for the passage of the clog, tying a knot on both sides and for making tassels.
I cut two strips of leather of 27 cm long and 4 cm wide, these were placed on top of each other and glued together. With adhesive tape I put the graph paper around the outside so that I coul cut holes at an equal distance, I used the smallest hole of the revolving punch pliers. After making the holes I crocheted the two parts together.
With the largest opening of the pliers I made a hole on both sides (short side) at 1.5 cm from the edge and at 3.5 cm. These holes are just big enough for the rope to run through. The leather ensures that the rope does not cut into the shoulder. Finally I put the rope through the wooden shoe on both sides. The easiest way to do this is to wrap the end of the rope tightly with adhesive tape and let it run into a point. Once the rope has passed through, measure the correct length and tie a knot in the rope on both sides. Remove adhesive tape and fluff both ends into a tassel and cut to size.
I cut two strips of leather of 27 cm long and 4 cm wide, these were placed on top of each other and glued together. With adhesive tape I put the graph paper around the outside so that I coul cut holes at an equal distance, I used the smallest hole of the revolving punch pliers. After making the holes I crocheted the two parts together.
With the largest opening of the pliers I made a hole on both sides (short side) at 1.5 cm from the edge and at 3.5 cm. These holes are just big enough for the rope to run through. The leather ensures that the rope does not cut into the shoulder. Finally I put the rope through the wooden shoe on both sides. The easiest way to do this is to wrap the end of the rope tightly with adhesive tape and let it run into a point. Once the rope has passed through, measure the correct length and tie a knot in the rope on both sides. Remove adhesive tape and fluff both ends into a tassel and cut to size.
The Blades of the Windmill
For the blades I used a wooden button with 4 holes. With a small hand drill I made a 5th hole in the middle of these 4 holes so I can add the blades with a copper nail. I also used 4 pieces of iron wire of 30 cm, 8 beads and glue to make the frame.
In line with the buttonholes, I draw four lines in the edge of the button. The edge of the button is slightly higher than the button itself, I saw it slightly so that the iron wire sinks into the edge. I fold all iron wires in half so that there are four pieces of 15 cm and tread the wire piece by piece through a buttonhole, countersink it in the groove and turn it two turns so that it is tight against the button.
Put a drop of glue on the twisted part of the iron wire and slide a bead on it. Let it dry.
Twist all 4 iron wires together, determine how big you want the crocheted part of the wings to be and just above that part apply another drop of glue and slide a bead on it. I chose a crochet section of 4.5 cm. Once the glue is dry, cut off the excess wire just behind the second bead. The frame is ready.
The sails of the blades are crocheted in single crochet (SC). Casting on can be done in two ways or a single crochet around the iron wire or chain stitch where the wire is pulled one time on one side of the iron wire and the next stitch on the other side of the iron wire. Crochet SC two or three rows (depending on the size of the blades). Decrease the first and last stitch every row so that the sail gets rounded corners.
(because the pictures of the sails were not clear, I crocheted them again on a cable needle)
In line with the buttonholes, I draw four lines in the edge of the button. The edge of the button is slightly higher than the button itself, I saw it slightly so that the iron wire sinks into the edge. I fold all iron wires in half so that there are four pieces of 15 cm and tread the wire piece by piece through a buttonhole, countersink it in the groove and turn it two turns so that it is tight against the button.
Put a drop of glue on the twisted part of the iron wire and slide a bead on it. Let it dry.
Twist all 4 iron wires together, determine how big you want the crocheted part of the wings to be and just above that part apply another drop of glue and slide a bead on it. I chose a crochet section of 4.5 cm. Once the glue is dry, cut off the excess wire just behind the second bead. The frame is ready.
The sails of the blades are crocheted in single crochet (SC). Casting on can be done in two ways or a single crochet around the iron wire or chain stitch where the wire is pulled one time on one side of the iron wire and the next stitch on the other side of the iron wire. Crochet SC two or three rows (depending on the size of the blades). Decrease the first and last stitch every row so that the sail gets rounded corners.
(because the pictures of the sails were not clear, I crocheted them again on a cable needle)
The Windmill
The mill is a bit more difficult to crochet. With normal SC, different colors do not fit nicely on top of each other and this is especially annoying with small applications. To get tight doors and windows I used the mochila technique, also called ‘yarn under’. These are single crochets where you only use the back loop and crochet the yarn under. As a result, the stitches fall nicely above each other and you get a ripple at the front. The yarn run together.
Mochila is actually a round crochet technique and on a straight piece you have to stop every row at the end (do not turn the work) and make a new row by starting over. You have a lot of yarn to tie off, or as I did (less beautiful) you took the yarn with you when crocheting around the windmill. To limit the number of threads to tie off, I have use SC for the rows that do not contain white.
Make a chain of 20 chain stitches (CH) and fasten off. The first 8 rows are in mochila technique, start with blue and let the white thread run along with the blue one. Put your crochet hook in the back loop of the chain stitch, do not put the thread over your crochet hook now, but keep the thread under your crochet hook. Your crochet hook will work around the thread from above, pull the thread through the stitch and work around the thread from above again. Do the following stitches in the same way.
Make a row of 7 blue, 5 white and 8 blue. The first row is finished cut the strands but leave enough length to fasten off. To prevent the first and last stitches from stretching, you can make a small knot with the white and blue yarn. Start the second row in the same way as the first row. Again 7 blue, 5 white and 8 blue. You do this 4 times in total. The fifth row, still mochila, start with 2 blue stitches, then 3 white stitches then 2 blue stitches followed by 5 white stitches then again 2 blue, 3 white and finally 3 blue stitches, repeat this row 3 more times. You have now 8 rows of mochila in total.
The following rounds are only blue so you work them in regular single crochets, you can turn the work again for the next round. Crochet 20 single crochets turn the piece and repeat. Crochet a total of 4 rows of 20 single crochets. You now have a total of 12 rows. On the next row decrease one stitch at the beginning and one at the end, so you will work 18 stitches in total. Turn and decrease another stitch at the beginning and one at the end, you have now worked 16 stitches. Turn and decrease a stitch at the beginning and end, you now have 14 stitches left. Start the last row of single crochets, decrease another stitch at the beginning and at the end there are 12 stitches left and a total of 16 rows.
From round 17 onwards we will work again according to the mochila technique. Start with 4 stitches blue, then 4 stitches white and finish with 4 stitches blue. Cut the threads again as in the beginning, do not turn and start a new row. This row again has one stitch less at the beginning and end. Work 3 stitches blue, 4 stitches white and 3 stitches blue and cut the threads again. Repeat this row one more time, 3 rows of mochila have now been made, the rest of the mill is worked in single crochet again.
Work six rounds of single crochet over 10 stitches. A total of 25 rows have now been made. On the next row decrease another stitch at the beginning and end, you now have a total of 8 stitches. With the last two rows you also decrease one stitch at the beginning and at the end of the last row there are 4 stitches left. Do not cut the thread, but crochet around the windmill with single crochets. Fasten off the yarn of the mochila rows or take the threads along when crocheting. Fasten off the yarn. The mill is now ready.
Mochila is actually a round crochet technique and on a straight piece you have to stop every row at the end (do not turn the work) and make a new row by starting over. You have a lot of yarn to tie off, or as I did (less beautiful) you took the yarn with you when crocheting around the windmill. To limit the number of threads to tie off, I have use SC for the rows that do not contain white.
Make a chain of 20 chain stitches (CH) and fasten off. The first 8 rows are in mochila technique, start with blue and let the white thread run along with the blue one. Put your crochet hook in the back loop of the chain stitch, do not put the thread over your crochet hook now, but keep the thread under your crochet hook. Your crochet hook will work around the thread from above, pull the thread through the stitch and work around the thread from above again. Do the following stitches in the same way.
Make a row of 7 blue, 5 white and 8 blue. The first row is finished cut the strands but leave enough length to fasten off. To prevent the first and last stitches from stretching, you can make a small knot with the white and blue yarn. Start the second row in the same way as the first row. Again 7 blue, 5 white and 8 blue. You do this 4 times in total. The fifth row, still mochila, start with 2 blue stitches, then 3 white stitches then 2 blue stitches followed by 5 white stitches then again 2 blue, 3 white and finally 3 blue stitches, repeat this row 3 more times. You have now 8 rows of mochila in total.
The following rounds are only blue so you work them in regular single crochets, you can turn the work again for the next round. Crochet 20 single crochets turn the piece and repeat. Crochet a total of 4 rows of 20 single crochets. You now have a total of 12 rows. On the next row decrease one stitch at the beginning and one at the end, so you will work 18 stitches in total. Turn and decrease another stitch at the beginning and one at the end, you have now worked 16 stitches. Turn and decrease a stitch at the beginning and end, you now have 14 stitches left. Start the last row of single crochets, decrease another stitch at the beginning and at the end there are 12 stitches left and a total of 16 rows.
From round 17 onwards we will work again according to the mochila technique. Start with 4 stitches blue, then 4 stitches white and finish with 4 stitches blue. Cut the threads again as in the beginning, do not turn and start a new row. This row again has one stitch less at the beginning and end. Work 3 stitches blue, 4 stitches white and 3 stitches blue and cut the threads again. Repeat this row one more time, 3 rows of mochila have now been made, the rest of the mill is worked in single crochet again.
Work six rounds of single crochet over 10 stitches. A total of 25 rows have now been made. On the next row decrease another stitch at the beginning and end, you now have a total of 8 stitches. With the last two rows you also decrease one stitch at the beginning and at the end of the last row there are 4 stitches left. Do not cut the thread, but crochet around the windmill with single crochets. Fasten off the yarn of the mochila rows or take the threads along when crocheting. Fasten off the yarn. The mill is now ready.
The Turn
A mill has a turn, from here the mill is operated.
Crochet a chain of 41 chain stitches and make sure there is a starting thread of about 10 cm, which you can use later to secure the turn. Crochet 33 single crochets and let the remaining chain hang, this will become a support beam later. For the next row crochet two chain stitches, then a double crochet, two chain stitches, skip two stitches and crochet another double crochet. Repeat this until the end and finish with two double crochets. Chain down through the crochet work and make a chain of 7 CH for the other support beam and fasten off. Cut the yarn at about 10 cm, which is also to secure the beam later. Now you only have to crochet two support bars for the middle of the mill. Mark two places on either side of the door with a needle or pin. Crochet four chain stitches and stitch through the right marked spot of the turn. Insert the crochet hook through the bottom of the loop and crochet chain stitch in this way up to the left marking point, finish with 4 chain stitches, this is the second support bar. See the turn in its place with the beginning and end yarn. The mill is now complete. You can leave it as is or crochet some plants.
Crochet a chain of 41 chain stitches and make sure there is a starting thread of about 10 cm, which you can use later to secure the turn. Crochet 33 single crochets and let the remaining chain hang, this will become a support beam later. For the next row crochet two chain stitches, then a double crochet, two chain stitches, skip two stitches and crochet another double crochet. Repeat this until the end and finish with two double crochets. Chain down through the crochet work and make a chain of 7 CH for the other support beam and fasten off. Cut the yarn at about 10 cm, which is also to secure the beam later. Now you only have to crochet two support bars for the middle of the mill. Mark two places on either side of the door with a needle or pin. Crochet four chain stitches and stitch through the right marked spot of the turn. Insert the crochet hook through the bottom of the loop and crochet chain stitch in this way up to the left marking point, finish with 4 chain stitches, this is the second support bar. See the turn in its place with the beginning and end yarn. The mill is now complete. You can leave it as is or crochet some plants.
The Tulips
With green make a chain of 5 chain stitches and turn, make a row of single crochets, turn again. Make several chains in different lengths and fix it on the base of single crochets. As soon as you find that there is enough "leaf", the tulip bunch is ready. Sew the green leafs on the mill and fasten the yarn. Attach red beads to the green strands with red thread. The tulips are ready
Attach the Mill to the Clog
See how the windmill with blades looks best on the clog. As soon as the correct position has been found, mark the mill on the clog just below the crochet work. Lubricate the clog and mill with glue, let it dry according to the instructions and press the mill (without blades) onto the clog.
Take 4 copper nails and slide the beads on the nail. These will be the window knobs and the door knob. Decide where you want these buttons and tap with a hammer.
Determine the position of the blades and glue the blades to the mill. Drive the last copper nail in the middle of the button. The clog bag is ready.
Take 4 copper nails and slide the beads on the nail. These will be the window knobs and the door knob. Decide where you want these buttons and tap with a hammer.
Determine the position of the blades and glue the blades to the mill. Drive the last copper nail in the middle of the button. The clog bag is ready.