Backyard Rope Tow for Skiing or Snowboarding

I’ve been skiing for years, and the terrain park has always been where I push myself the most. Last winter I built a PVC pipe rail in my yard to get some extra practice in. It was fun, but after a while hiking back up the slope became the hardest part of the session. I wanted a way to get more laps, more reps, and actually improve my rail skills instead of burning all my energy climbing the hill.

I knew the solution to this problem was a rope tow, I'd seen this work before at real ski resorts and knew it was just what I needed. That simple idea turned into a much bigger project. I watched every DIY rope tow video I could find, compared designs, took notes, and tried to understand why some systems worked while others didn’t. Pretty quickly I realized nothing online matched exactly what I needed, so I started designing my own version from scratch. What I thought would take a weekend ended up taking months of work. I redesigned things over and over, ran speed and torque calculations, tested drum sizes, learned about gear reducers, applied lessons from my physics class, and compared parts from every corner of the internet. It became a full on engineering challenge!

If you want to build your own backyard rope tow to bring you back up your hill, this guide will walk you through everything I learned so you can skip the months of redesigns and get straight to a version that works. Whether you’re skiing, snowboarding, sledding-or just want a great winter project that turns a small hill into something special-this rope tow will help you get faster laps and more progression.

(And as always, this project involves electricity, moving machinery, and winter sports. I’ll point out safety considerations throughout, and you should follow all local electrical and building guidelines.)

Check out the video below to see the rope tow in action!

1) MOTOR & GEARBOX

Vevor 1.5 HP Single-Phase Motor (115/230V, 1725 RPM, 56C Frame)

Price: $158 + free shipping

Power source for the rope tow, great torque and speed. Frame matches gearbox (56C). Output matches gearbox input (5/8").

Lexar Industrial MRV040, 10:1 Worm Gear Box, 56C, 5/8” Output Bore

Price: $160 + $15 shipping

Reduces motor output speed to the correct shaft rotation speed and increases torque. Frame matches motor (56C). Input matches motor output (5/8" bore). Output and keyway match shaft (5/8" bore, 3/16" keyway).

2) ELECTRICAL

100 ft 10/3 Outdoor Extension Cord

Price: $50–$60 + free shipping

Heavy duty enough to combat voltage drop and outdoor conditions. Get enough of this cord to stretch from your nearest outlet to the top of your ski hill.

Leviton Decora 20A Switch

Price: $11 + free shipping

On/off switch for the motor, can handle high current. Decora style is easy to flip, even with ski gloves on.

Leviton Decora Light Switch Cover

Price: $2 + free shipping

Covers the switch and protects it from winter weather. Included screws line up with the switch.

1 Gang Electrical Box

Price: $1 + free shipping

Houses the switch and allows it to be mounted into the plywood side.

Large Red Wire Nuts

Price: $5 + free shipping

Connects multiple wires together and protects them from outside conditions. Linked is a 30 pack but only 2 are needed.

3/4" Twin Screw Wire Clamps

Price: $9 + free shipping

Wire clamps grip the extension cord and prevent it from moving. Linked is a 5 pack but only 2 of these are needed.

3) Shaft Assembly Components

5/8” x 24” Precision Keyed Shaft

Price: $22 + $7 shipping

"Axle" of the assembly, connects the gearbox output to the drum. Buy 2' of this, it'll be cut into two sections. Diameter matches gearbox output, shaft collars, sprocket hub, bearings, and tires (5/8"). Keyway size matches shaft key size (3/16").

3/16” Steel Shaft Key Stock

Price: $3 + free shipping

Fits into the square cutout and transfers torque to and from the shaft. Size matches keyway on the shaft, gearbox, and sprocket hub (3/16").

PGN 5/8” Pillow Block Bearings - Qty: 4

Price: $38 ($7 each x 4 + $10 shipping)

These hold the keyed shaft in place while it spins. Four are needed in total, two per station. Bore size matches keyed shaft (5/8").

5/8” Single Split Shaft Collars - Qty: 5

Price: $12.50 ($2.50 each x 5 + free shipping)

Once tightened, these lock onto the shaft and do not move up or down. They are used to lock components vertically in place on the shaft. Bore size matches the keyed shaft (5/8").

10 in. Pneumatic Tire (2-Pack) - Qty: 2

Price: $50 ($25 each x 2 + free shipping)

Two tires are stacked to form a "drum", the rope is gripped in the valley formed in the middle of these tires. A "drum" is needed for each station, so four tires in total. Tire bore size matches keyed shaft size (5/8"). Tire bolt holes match the sprocket hub's bolt holes.

JRL Sprocket Hub

Price: $16 + free shipping

Bolts to one of the "drums" and transfers torque from the shaft. Bore size matches keyed shaft (5/8"). Bolt holes match the tires' bolt holes. Keyway size matches shaft key size (3/16").

4) Rope

3/4” Polypropylene Rope 100 ft roll - Qty: 2

Price: $46 ($23 each x 2 + free shipping)

This 3/4" rope is waterproof, cheap, and thick enough to easily grip with ski gloves. To determine how many 100' rolls you need, simply measure your slope and buy enough to cover twice that length.

5) Ground Anchors

8-Piece Ground Anchor Kit, 15in

Price: $32 + free shipping

These augers screw into the earth and provide a ratchet point for the stations of the rope tow. This is a pack of 8 but only 6 are needed.

Ratchet Straps & Tensioners - Qty: 6

Price: $25 + free shipping

Six ratchet straps are used to secure the rope tow stations to the ground anchors so they do not move under rope tension. Linked here is a six pack of standard ratchet straps & tensioners, just buy one of these. If you already have enough ratchet equipment just use that.

6) Frame / Structure

2x4, 8' long - Qty: 4

Used as horizontal "beams" to provide structure to the stations. Pressure treated is recommended, even though this wood isn't directly exposed, it may still come in contact with winter conditions.

3/4" plywood 4' x 8' sheet - Qty: 3

Outer coverings for the stations are cut out of this supply. Pressure treated is recommended as this will be outside in winter weather.

24" Square Acrylic Sheet 1/8" Thick

Price: $26 + free shipping

Provides a clear window into the top station. Thick enough to be sturdy but thin enough to easily cut.

6" Plastic Pipe, 24" Length

Price: $10 + free shipping

This pipe is used to redirect the rope and bear it's weight.

12" x 9" Thin Metal Sheet

Price: $12 + free shipping

Supports the rope and prevents friction from wearing down the plastic pipe. It doesn't matter what type of metal this is as long as it is thin enough to bend and strong enough to withstand ongoing friction from a rope.

7) Hardware

1/2" Bolt, 3" length - Qty: 8

These bolts secure the pillow block bearings onto 2x4s. Two are needed for each pillow block bearing.

1/2" Lock Nut - Qty: 8

Nuts for the bolts above, used to secure the pillow block bearings. This type of nut (lock nut) stays still even with vibration from the motor.

5/16" Bolt, 6" Length - Qty: 4

These bolts connect two tires together to create a "drum". 2 bolts are needed per drum, so 4 total.

5/16" Bolt, 2" Length - Qty: 4

These bolts fit in the motor's base and secure it to the frame.

5/16" Lock Nut - Qty: 8

Nuts for the bolts above, used to connect the tires and attach the motor.

3" Deck Screws - Qty: >50

Heavy duty screws used for the frame. A fifty pack of these is enough for this project.

2" Screws - Qty: >20

Slightly smaller screws used when 3" would be too long. A twenty pack of these is sufficient.

0.5" Screws With Wide Flange - Qty: 10

These tiny screws are used to attach more delicate pieces of the build.

8) Optional Parts

Spray Paint - Qty: 3 cans

Up to you but I think spray paint makes the project look much more professional. I used matte white and it took three 2X cans to cover everything.

3D Printed Motor Vent

The motor does have a air intake fan at the back which gets covered up by a plywood cover. I designed this vent to allow airflow through the panel and attached it below. If you don't have access to a 3D printer don't worry about this part.

9) Tools

Circular saw / table saw

Hacksaw with wood & metal blade

Jigsaw

Utility knife

Pipe cutter / wire cutter

Drill with assorted bits

Slotted screwdriver (flat tip)

Measuring tape

Speed square

Pencil / marker

Clamps

Needle nose pliers

Hex key set

Wrench set

File

Before jumping into the physical build, it’s important to understand what you’re actually building and why it works. This project is made up of many parts that only make sense when viewed as a complete system, and assembling them without context can feel confusing or arbitrary. By explaining how the rope tow functions first, you’ll know why certain components are chosen, why they’re arranged the way they are, and what role each part plays once everything is spinning together. A clear conceptual understanding makes the entire build process more intuitive, safer, and ultimately more successful.

The rope tow is made up of two stations connected by a continuous loop of rope: an active station at the top of the hill and a passive station at the bottom. The rope runs from one station to the other and back again, forming a closed loop that is always spinning when the system is powered on. Both stations are built inside sturdy wooden enclosures and are anchored to the ground using screw-in augers and ratchet straps, which prevent movement under load and allow the rope tension to be adjusted. This setup keeps the system stable while still allowing fine tuning for smooth and reliable operation.

The active (top) station is where all of the power and motion originate. An electric motor provides continuous rotational motion, which is fed into a worm gearbox to reduce speed and dramatically increase torque. The gearbox turns a keyed shaft, which ensures the rotation is transferred without slipping. Mounted on this shaft are two stacked pneumatic tires that act as a friction drum. When bolted together, the tires form a shallow “valley” between them, and the rope naturally sits in this groove. As the tires spin, they grip the rope evenly from both sides to pull you up the hill.

The passive (bottom) station does not provide any power and simply guides the rope back toward the top of the hill. It uses a free-spinning drum that redirects the rope while maintaining alignment and consistent tension. Together, the two stations create a continuous loop that converts rotational motion at the top station into smooth, uphill movement for riders.

Now that you understand how the rope tow works as a system, the rest of this guide focuses on building it step by step. The process starts with constructing the top station and then moves on to the bottom station, which is built in a very similar way. Once both stations are complete, the remaining steps tie everything together and prepare the system for use. The table of contents below outlines the full build process and shows how each step fits into the overall project.

Top Station Steps

2) Frame 1

3) Pillow Block Bearings

4) Motor & Gearbox

5) Drums (for both stations)

6) Shaft Assembly

7) Frame 2

8) Pipe Support

9) Electrical

10) Metal Support Coverings

11) Frame 3

Bottom Station Steps

12) Frame 1

13) Pillow Block Bearings

14) Shaft Assembly

15) Pipe Support

16) Frame 2

17) Frame 3

Final Steps

18) Final Touches

19) Rope: Cutting & Splicing

20) Ground Anchors

21) Using The Rope Tow

At this point, you already understand how the rope tow functions and the role each station plays. In this step, we’ll begin physically building the top station by constructing its main structural frame. This frame serves as the backbone for all of the top station’s components, so accuracy and squareness here are important. Refer to the attached cutaway diagram as you build-while it isn’t perfectly to scale, all measurements are accurate. The drawing may look intimidating at first, but we’ll work through it one simple step at a time.

1) Cut Plywood Trapezoids

These panels form the primary structure of the top station, and nearly every other component will attach to them, so take your time and aim for accuracy.

Panel dimensions:

• Bottom width: 32”

• Top width: 22”

• Height: 40”

The wider bottom increases stability, while the narrower top reduces unnecessary material and keeps the structure compact. The height was chosen by working backward from ergonomics: a rope height of about 35 inches is comfortable to hold for the average skier, and an additional ~5 inches is needed above the rope to accommodate the tires and bearings, resulting in a total height of 40 inches. I used 3/4” plywood for maximum strength and rigidity. While 1/2” plywood could work, 3/4” provides the best stiffness and durability.

To lay out the shape, draw the top and bottom base lines (22” and 32”) parallel to each other and 40 inches apart, then connect their ends with straight lines. A tape measure and speed square work well for this. I cut the panels using a circular saw; if you have access to a table saw, it will produce even cleaner, straighter cuts. Don’t worry if the pieces aren’t perfect to the millimeter—what matters most is that both panels are identical so everything lines up correctly in later steps.

2) Cut Support Shelves

These pieces will be mounted parallel to the trapezoid plywood side panels, not perpendicular like the 14” structural beams. Their role is to support the pair of beams that will form the motor platform, creating a much stronger structure than mounting the motor on beams alone. The 7” length is intentional-it allows two 2x4 beams to sit side by side on top of the shelves, accounting for the actual 1.5” x 3.5” dimensions of modern lumber. Measure carefully and make clean, accurate cuts so both shelves are identical and sit flush when installed.

3) Attach Support Shelves

Position each 2x4 shelf 18.5 inches down from the top of the trapezoid and 3.25 inches in from one edge of the top base (dotted reference line in drawing). Transferring this dotted line directly onto the plywood is highly recommended, as it makes consistent alignment much easier and helps keep the frame square. Hold each shelf firmly in place using clamps or with the help of a second person, then drill pilot holes, four per side. Countersinking the holes is optional but gives a cleaner, more professional result. Secure each shelf using at least four 2-inch wood screws, ensuring it sits flush and level before moving on.

4) Cut 2x4 Beams

Throughout this build, you’ll see repeated references to “beams.” In this project, beams are simply 14" long sections of 2x4 lumber that span between the two plywood side panels. They set the width of the station, tie the sides together, and provide strong mounting points for internal components like the motor, bearings, and covers. Think of them as the internal ribs of the station.

Each beam is cut to 14 inches long, which establishes the overall internal width of the station. This dimension was chosen carefully: it provides enough clearance for the widest internal element-the rope as it wraps around the drum-while keeping the structure compact and rigid. The top station uses twelve of these beams in total, but only two are needed for this step. You can cut all twelve now for convenience or cut them as needed as the build progresses.

Cut the beams from standard 2x4 lumber using a miter saw for fast, square cuts. A circular saw or hand saw will also work if you take your time. Accuracy matters here: each beam should fit snugly between the plywood sides without forcing or looseness. Consistent beam lengths will help keep the station square, strong, and easier to assemble in later steps.

5) Attach Beams To Shelves

Position the two plywood trapezoid panels upright and 14 inches apart, with the shelves directly across from each other. Clamping them to sawhorses or another stable surface helps hold everything in place while you work. Take two of the previously cut 14” 2x4 beams and place them directly on top of the motor support shelves, running horizontally between the side panels. Once aligned, drill pilot holes into the shelves and secure each beam with two 3-inch deck screws per side. These beams form the motor platform; combined with the shelves beneath them, this creates a very strong and rigid structure that supports the motor’s weight and keeps it properly aligned with the rest of the system.

The next step is installing the pillow block bearings, which support the spinning shaft and allow it to rotate smoothly under load. These bearings handle several critical jobs at once: they resist the tension from the rope, support the weight of the shaft and drum against gravity, and keep everything aligned with the gearbox. To keep the system simple and consistent, all rotating components in this project use a 5/8” shaft, including the motor, gearbox, shaft collars, tires, sprocket hub, and these bearings. The pillow block bearings used here are pre-lubricated, self-aligning, and designed for high loads, making them well suited for this application. Each station uses two bearings, one on each end of the shaft, to provide stable and reliable support for the spinning drum.

1) Mark Bearing bolt Holes

Each pillow block bearing is pre-mounted to a dedicated 2x4 beam, which makes installation and alignment much easier before the beams are attached to the frame. Start by orienting a 2x4 so it is taller than it is wide, matching how it will be installed later. Place a pillow block bearing centered on top of the 2x4; because the bearing is 5 inches wide, it can be centered by measuring 4.5 inches from either end of the beam. Once aligned correctly, trace the inside of the two mounting holes onto the top face of the 2x4. Then flip the beam over and transfer the same hole locations to the opposite face. Repeat this process for a second 2x4 so both have the same markings on both sides.

2) Drill Bearing Bolt Holes

Using the markings, drill the mounting holes into each beam. On one face of the 2x4, drill 2 inches deep using a 1-inch bit to create a recessed pocket for the nut. Flip the board over and drill all the way through using a 1/2-inch bit, keeping the drill as straight as possible so the holes align cleanly. The smaller through-hole allows the bolt to pass through, while the larger recessed hole provides space to tighten the nut and keeps it hidden inside the wood. A drill press works best for this step, but a handheld drill is perfectly acceptable if you take your time and drill carefully. Repeat this process for both bearing beams, making sure all holes are straight and aligned.

3) Bolt Bearings To Beams

Attach each pillow block bearing to its corresponding 2x4 beam using 1/2-inch bolts and lock nuts. Insert the 2" bolts through the bearing mounting holes so the bolt heads sit flush against the bearing, with the nuts seated inside the recessed pockets. Tighten the hardware using a ratchet wrench until the bearing is firmly secured and does not wiggle or shift. Once both bearings are mounted, you should have two identical bearing-and-beam assemblies ready to be installed into the frame.

4) Install Beams With Bearings

Using the diagram as a reference, position both beams 2.5 inches in from the edge of the top base (the dotted reference line). One beam should sit flush with the very top of the trapezoid panels, allowing a roof panel to be installed flat later, while the second beam is positioned 10.5 inches below the top. Clamp each beam in place to hold alignment while you work. Before securing anything permanently, visually confirm that a straight shaft would pass cleanly through both bearings without binding-this quick check can prevent headaches later. Once aligned, drill pilot holes and secure each beam using 3-inch deck screws, installing two screws per side. Tighten everything firmly, then recheck alignment to ensure the bearings are square, level, and directly in line with each other.

Before selecting a motor or gearbox, I first determined what rope speed would actually feel right for a backyard rope tow. After measuring my hill (about 90 feet long at an average 5° incline) and timing several uphill walks, I found that a comfortable but efficient pace was 12–14 seconds, or roughly 4.5-5 mph. To keep the ride smooth and non-jerky, I intentionally targeted the lower end of that range.

The motor spins at 1725 RPM, which is far too fast to drive a rope directly. To reduce speed while increasing torque, I chose a 10:1 worm-gear gearbox, bringing the output speed down to roughly 173 RPM. This approach is simpler and more compact than a chain-and-sprocket reduction while providing excellent torque multiplication. Final rope speed is set by the drum diameter: two 10-inch pneumatic tires acting as a friction drum result in a rope speed of about 4 mph under load, which closely matches the original target. After many hours of real-life use, this speed has proven to be smooth, predictable, and ideal for a rope tow.

1) Attach Gearbox To Motor

Bolt the gearbox directly to the motor using the included hardware. Both components use a 56C frame, so they align and bolt together perfectly, and the motor shaft fits cleanly into the gearbox input. Install the gearbox so the output bore points straight upward, with the wider side of the gearbox facing the same direction as the motor’s wiring box (refer to the image). This orientation ensures proper alignment with the shaft and bearings.

2) Align Motor & Gearbox With Bearings

Place the motor-and-gearbox assembly onto the platform created in the previous step. Rather than relying on measurements, temporarily slide the shaft through the two pillow block bearings and into the gearbox output. This guarantees perfect alignment and removes guesswork. Once aligned, use a pencil to trace the motor base and mark the four mounting holes. The motor will sit slightly off-center on the platform, which is normal due to the gearbox output not being centered on the motor body.

3) Drill Mounting Holes

Drill the four marked holes using a 5/16-inch drill bit, making sure they go completely through the supporting 2x4 beams. Accuracy here is critical-misaligned holes will force the motor out of alignment and make it difficult or impossible for the shaft to spin freely through the bearings and gearbox.

4) Bolt Down Motor

Replace and bolt the motor to the platform using four 5/16-inch, 2" long bolts and lock nuts. Because of the motor’s base geometry, the bolts must be inserted from underneath, with the nuts on top. Tighten everything securely, then perform a final check by sliding the shaft through the bearings and gearbox. The shaft should pass through smoothly with no binding; if it doesn’t, slightly loosen the motor and adjust until alignment is perfect before fully tightening.

A note on hardware: I initially purchased bolts that were slightly too long (3") and used wooden spacers as a workaround. This isn’t necessary, simply use the correct length bolts (2”) for a clean installation. I am mentioning this so if you see four wooden circles underneath the motor platform it's not confusing.

The drums control how the rope is guided, tensioned, and-at the powered station-driven. In this design, each drum is made from two pneumatic tires stacked on a shaft, forming a natural groove that keeps the rope centered while providing excellent grip. Both drums guide the rope along the correct path and help maintain consistent tension, but only the active drum transfers power from the motor and gearbox into rope motion.

This tire-based drum design is simple, forgiving to minor alignment errors, and highly effective. The tires used here are inexpensive, grippy, and the correct diameter to produce the desired rope speed. Functionally they are very similar, with the key difference being that the active drum includes a hub that locks it to the shaft, while the passive drum spins freely to redirect and tension the rope.

1) Remove Bolts From Tire Rims

Each tire has four bolts securing the metal rim. On all four tires, remove two bolts that are directly opposite each other. These removed bolts will be replaced with longer hardware that clamps the tires together. Discard the bolts, but keep the washers, as they will be reused during assembly.

2) Assemble Passive Drum

Align two tires so they face the same direction and the empty bolt holes line up. Using two 6-inch-long 5/16” bolts, clamp the tires together through the empty holes. Install a washer and nut on each bolt and tighten them evenly and firmly. The tires should be pressed tightly together to form a solid drum; this ensures the rope sits securely in the groove and prevents it from slipping between the tires.

3) Assemble Active Drum

Assemble the active drum in the same way, but also run the bolts through the sprocket hub. This hub has a keyway, allowing it to lock onto the shaft and transfer rotational force to the drum. Install the hub on the side of the drum without the protruding valve stem cylinder, as shown in the images, where it seats cleanly against the rim. Tighten the bolts firmly so the hub and tires are clamped together into a rigid assembly.

Once complete, you will have one passive drum and one active drum, ready to be installed onto the shaft in their respective stations.

The shaft carries rotational force from the gearbox to the active drum while being supported and aligned by the bearings. In this step, the shaft is cut to length, keyed, and assembled so all components work together smoothly and stay locked in position.

1) Cut The Shaft

Cut the 5/8” keyed shaft to 14.5 inches for the top station. The original 24” shaft supplies both stations; the remaining 9.5-inch section will be used later for the bottom station. The top shaft is longer because it must pass through the gearbox in addition to the drum and bearings. A hacksaw with a metal-cutting blade works well for this. After cutting, file the ends smooth to remove sharp edges and avoid cuts.

2) Cut The Shaft Key

The shaft key is the skinny square piece of metal. It is 3/16" x 3/16" which is the same size as the square cutout on the shaft, gearbox, and sprocket hub, everything is on the same page. Sections of the shaft key are needed whenever torque must be transferred to or from the shaft. The gearbox must transfer its rotational force onto the shaft, this piece must be 3.25". The second section of shaft key is 1.25" and needed to transfer torque from the shaft to the sprocket hub, which is part of the active drum. Use the same hacksaw and metal cutting blade used for the shaft to cut these pieces.

3) Assemble Shaft Components

Refer to the diagram during this step as it can get confusing. First, slide a shaft collar onto one end of the 14.5” shaft and tighten it firmly. Insert the 3.25” shaft key into the keyway and position it against the collar. This collar prevents the key from sliding out of the gearbox. Slide the shaft upward through the gearbox, aligning the shaft key with the gearbox keyway.

Next, install the remaining components onto the shaft between the bearings in this order: shaft collar → active drum (sprocket hub on the bottom) → shaft collar. Slide the shaft through the top bearing and tighten the set screws on both bearings to lock the shaft vertically. Insert the 1.25” shaft key into the sprocket hub, the shaft collar below will keep it in place. Position the drum about 1 inch below the top bearing, then tighten the shaft collars above and below the drum so it cannot move up or down.

With the mechanical components in place, this step returns to framing. The additional 2x4 beams added here make the station extremely strong and provide points to attach ratchet straps later. Building the frame incrementally avoids lumber getting in the way during motor and shaft installation.

1) Attach Bottom Beams

Attach two 14-inch 2x4 beams to the very bottom of the station. Position the first beam 5 inches in from one edge of the bottom base, resting flat on the ground. Clamp the plywood sides together to hold alignment, then secure the beam using two 3-inch deck screws per side. Repeat this process on the opposite side so both bottom beams are mirrored and evenly spaced.

2) Attach Bottom Side Beams

Install two additional 14-inch beams flush with the sloped sides of the trapezoid panels. Each beam should be positioned 5 inches from the bottom of the slanted edge, measured along the slope, not vertically from the base. Clamp in place and secure with two 3-inch screws per side.

3) Attach Upper Side Beam

Install a final 14-inch beam at the top of the station on the rope in/out side, as shown in the diagram. This beam sits flat against the slanted side of the trapezoid and is positioned directly next to the bearing beam on the opposite side of the motor. When installed correctly, only one corner will lightly touch the roof panel later. Clamp in place, drill pilot holes, and secure with 3-inch screws.

This step adds a static rope support that redirects and carries the weight of the rope before it reaches the drum. This allows the drum to focus solely on driving the rope, reducing wear and improving reliability. The pipe shown is ABS, but the exact plastic type is unimportant; the 6” diameter provides a gentle bend and sufficient strength.

1) Cut Pipe To Length

Trim the pipe to 14 inches, measuring in multiple spots to ensure accuracy. Cut with a hacksaw and smooth the edge with sandpaper to prevent cuts.

2) Split Pipe Lengthwise

Mark a straight line down the length of the pipe and cut it in half using a hacksaw. Each half will form one rope support per station.

3) Cut Plywood Supports

Trace the inside curve of the pipe's semicircle shape onto 3/4” plywood and cut out six identical semicircles. On each piece, trace and cut a centered 2x4 notch along the flat edge so it can slide over a beam. A jigsaw works best for these intricate cuts.

4) Attach Plywood Supports To Beams

Grab two more 14" long 2x4s. Spread out three plywood semicircles per 14” beam: one centered and one on each end. Apply wood glue in the cutout, clamp, drill a pilot hole through the top of the plywood, and secure with a single 2” screw per piece.

5) Attach Pipe To Wooden Structure

Fit the plastic pipe half over the plywood supports. Drill pilot holes through the pipe into the plywood at the ends and secure with 2” screws. For the center support, drill from the top and use 3” screws. Do this twice to create 2 identical pipe supports.

6) Draw Reference Lines

Extend a vertical reference line up one side of the beam, then draw a diagonal line from the top of that line to the opposite bottom corner of the pipe support. This diagonal line is the important one, it'll be used to position the support in the station. Mirror this layout on the other side so the lines are parallel. Draw reference lines on both pipe supports.

7) Attach Pipe Support

Position one of the pipe supports between the trapezoid walls of the top station, just in front of the drum. Align the diagonal reference lines with the angled sides, the bottom corner of the pipe should just be touching the edge of the plywood. The top of the pipe should sit 5.625 inches down the slope so that there is a gap of 2.125 inches for the rope to pass through. Secure with three 3” screws per side.

8) Save The Other Support

Set the second pipe structure aside. It will be installed in the bottom station later.

The electrical system for this rope tow is straightforward, but it is one of the most important parts of the build. The motor is powered from a standard household outlet and supplied through a heavy-duty extension cord sized for the distance between the top station and the nearest outlet. Measure this distance first and buy the shortest cord that comfortably reaches, since longer and heavier-gauge cords get expensive quickly. Power runs directly to the motor, with the hot line routed through a Decora style switch for easy on/off control. Even though this system runs on household voltage, electricity can still be dangerous, so always work with the power unplugged and double-check that all connections are secure and fully insulated before turning it on.

1) Cut Electrical Box Opening

Start by preparing the blue electrical box, which will house the on/off switch. Remove the mounting nails and plastic clips that hold them, since they are intended for interior wall mounting and just get in the way here. Use pliers to twist out two adjacent wire ports on the back of the box, which will allow wires to pass through later.

On the plywood trapezoid closest to the motor wiring box, draw two reference lines: one horizontal line 27.75 inches up from the bottom base, and one vertical line 8.25 inches in from the angled side (refer to the diagram). Position the electrical box so it sits above the horizontal line and to the left of the vertical line, then trace the outside of the box with a pencil. This places the switch directly opposite of the motor wiring box so everything is contained in the same location.

Drill large holes at the corners of the outline so a jigsaw blade can fit through, then carefully cut along the lines. The opening should be snug so the box cannot move. Press the box into the opening until it sits flush with the plywood; a rubber mallet works well for this.

2) Prep Extension Cord

Cut the female end off the extension cord using wire cutters or a pipe cutter. This cord will be wired directly into the system, so only the male plug end is needed. Using a wire stripper or utility knife, carefully remove 4-5 inches of the black outer jacket to expose the internal wires. Take your time here and avoid cutting into the insulation of the inner conductors.

Next, strip 0.5-1 inch of insulation from the end of each internal wire using a wire stripper or utility knife. This exposes enough bare copper to make solid electrical connections. Once stripped, the cord is ready to be routed through the station and wired to the motor and switch.

3) Secure Extension Cord

Wire clamps are small metal fittings with two screws that tighten around the cord once installed, preventing movement. These protect the delicate electrical connections from coming out if the cord is accidentally yanked.

Start by drilling a 1-inch hole in the angled rear beam of the top station. This hole should be centered in the width of the 2x4 and located about 1 inch up from the bottom. Thread a wire clamp into this hole from the inside of the station. Next, drill a second 1-inch hole straight down through the motor platform shelf, positioned right next to the motor’s wiring box. Install another wire clamp from below the shelf. Feed the extension cord through the rear clamp first, then up through the shelf clamp. Pull the cord through until about 1 inch of the black outer jacket is visible above the shelf. Once positioned, tighten both wire clamps with a screwdriver until they are snug. Do not over tighten, as you do not want to crush the insulation. Finally, tug firmly on the cord to confirm it is securely held and does not move.

4) Wire The Motor

Open the motor’s wiring box and follow the 115V wiring diagram (Included above). Connect the white (neutral) wire from the extension cord to motor terminals T1, T3, and T8. Twist these wires together and secure them with a wire nut, which holds the wires together and insulates the exposed metal.

The wiring diagram labels T2, T4, T6, T7, and T9 as INS, meaning these wires are kept together inside the wiring box and not connected to any external wires. Twist them together, cap them with a wire nut, and leave them neatly inside the box.

Next, connect the green (ground) from the extension cord. Inside the motor wiring box, there is a small grounding screw threaded directly into the metal motor housing, at the back of the wiring box. Wrap the bare copper end of the green wire around this screw and tighten it securely. This ground connection provides a safe path for fault current and should not be skipped.

At this point, only the black (hot) wire from the extension cord and T5 from the motor should remain unconnected; these will be routed through the switch in the next step.

5) Connect The Switch

A switch is used to interrupt the hot line so the rope tow can be turned on and off quickly without unplugging the whole thing. This is both safer and more convenient, especially in cold conditions. A Decora-style switch was chosen because it is easy to flip, even while wearing ski gloves.

Route the black hot wire from the extension cord and T5 from the motor into the blue electrical box through the rear wire ports that were opened earlier. Hold the Decora-style switch directly outside the box while making the connections. Attach the black wire to one screw terminal on the switch and T5 to the other. For this type of switch, the order does not matter. Wrap each wire clockwise around its screw and tighten firmly so the wire cannot pull free. Leave the green ground screw on the switch unused.

Carefully fold the wires into the electrical box, secure the switch into the electrical box using the included screws, and install the cover plate so it sits flush against the plywood and helps keep moisture out.

6) Test

Plug in the extension cord and flip the switch. The motor should start smoothly and spin with a steady humming sound. Rotation should pass through the powertrain and the tires should be rotation steadily without wobbling. Watch for excessive vibration, sparks, or unusual smells. If everything looks normal, the electrical system is complete.

Attached is a video of my first test at this stage of construction.

During early testing, the rope began to wear into the plastic pipe support due to friction, particularly at the top station where the rope enters at a steeper downward angle. To make the design durable long-term, the pipe is covered with a thin sheet of metal. This metal layer protects the pipe from abrasion, while the plastic semicircle underneath maintains the correct shape and structural support.

Any thin, flexible metal such as aluminum or tin can be used for this purpose. After adding this covering, no further wear issues occurred—the metal is durable and the pipe beneath holds it in the proper curved shape. This modification is only necessary on the top station, since the rope experiences greater downward force there compared to the bottom station, where it exits on an upward path.

1) Cut Metal To Size

Cut two identical rectangular pieces from your metal sheet, approximately 6 inches wide by 9 inches long. This length is half the circumference of a 6-inch diameter circle. Thin aluminum or tin can often be cut with scissors, but thicker material may require a hacksaw.

2) Mold Metal To Pipe

Carefully bend the metal pieces around the plastic semicircle support until they naturally hold the same curvature. A close fit makes final installation much easier.

3) Drill Pilot Holes

Clamp each metal piece in place over the plastic support. Drill pilot holes at the corners, going through the metal, pipe, and underlying wood. Drilling holes first prevents the thin plywood from splitting.

4) Fasten With Screws

Secure the metal sheets with 2" screws, making sure the covering stays flush to the pipe and doesn't move. Once installed, the rope should only contact metal, not plastic.

This step completes the top station by adding the final structural beams and enclosing the frame with plywood and acrylic panels. These beams were added last to keep the electrical work accessible. The covers protect the system from weather while maintaining clean cable routing and rope clearance.

1) Install Final Beams

Using the diagram as a reference, Attach the last two beams at the top corner of the frame. One beam sits flush across the top base, positioned 2.5 inches from the edge. The second beam mounts on the angled side, 2.5 inches down the slope. Secure both using clamps, pilot holes, and 3” screws.

2) Cut Back Cover

Cut a rectangle measuring 15.5 inches wide by 35 inches tall from 3/4” plywood. The width comes from the 14” internal spacing plus the two 3/4” plywood side walls. This panel will close off the back of the top station while allowing the extension cord to pass through cleanly.

With the panel oriented vertically, mark 7.25 inches in from both sides along the bottom edge. From each of these marks, draw a vertical line 2 inches tall. Between these two vertical lines, drill a 1-inch hole so that the top of the hole is exactly 2 inches up from the bottom edge. This hole forms the rounded base of the cord slot. Use a jigsaw or hacksaw to cut upward along the two vertical lines until they meet the hole, creating a smooth slot for the extension cord.

Next, mark 4.75 inches in from both sides and draw vertical lines 4 inches tall. From the tops of these lines, draw horizontal lines out to the side edges of the plywood, matching the shapes shown in the diagram. These relief cuts allow the ratchet straps to wrap around the 2x4 behind this cover. For a cleaner, more professional look, drill 1-inch holes at the inside corners before cutting, which creates rounded corners instead of sharp angles. Cut along all marked lines using a hacksaw or circular saw.

Finally, cut a 10° angle along the top side (opposite the cord slot). This angled cut allows the panel to sit flush with the roof even though its attached to an angled side. When cutting, position the saw so only the angled portion is removed, preserving the full panel height.

3) Attach Back Cover

Align the back cover so the top and sides are flush with the station frame. The bottom edge should sit about 5 inches above the base, with the cord slot aligned to the entry hole. Clamp in place, drill pilot holes into underlying 2x4s, and secure using four 2-inch screws, two into the upper beam and two into the lower beam.

4) Cut Front Cover

Using a circular saw, cut another rectangle measuring 15.5 inches wide by 35 inches tall from 3/4” plywood. This panel will form the front face of the top station and includes the opening where the rope enters and exits.

With the panel oriented vertically, mark a horizontal line 3.5 inches down from the top edge. From that line, measure 8 inches downward and draw a second horizontal line (this puts the lower line 11.5 inches from the top). These two lines define the vertical height of the rope opening. Next, draw two vertical lines between them, each 3/4 inch in from the left and right edges of the panel. The rectangle formed by these four lines is the rope pass-through opening.

To give the opening a smoother, more professional shape, drill a 1-inch hole in the top-left and top-right corners of the rectangle. The bottom corners should remain square. Drill a hole in this cutout in order to fit a jigsaw blade, then cut out the shape.

Finally, just like the back cover, cut a 10° angle along the top. This angled cut allows the cover to sit flush against the sloped top of the station.

5) Attach Front Cover

Align the front cover with the top and sides of the station and clamp it in place. Mark screw locations spaced along the upper and lower beams behind the panel, drill pilot holes, and secure using 2-inch screws.

Note: Some of the picture for this part show two white coverings over the black pipe support, disregard these. This was something that I decided to change after I took pictures of this step.

6) Cut & Attach Acrylic

While optional, the acrylic roof allows a really cool look inside the top station while keeping snow and moisture out. A 1/8-inch thick acrylic sheet is ideal because it is strong enough to span the opening but thin enough to cut with simple tools.

For the best fit, place the acrylic sheet directly on top of the station and trace the outer edges of the frame onto the protective film. This is more accurate than measuring, since small variations in the frame can add up. Clamp a straight piece of wood along the cut line to act as a guide, then score the acrylic repeatedly with a utility knife. This process takes time, but repeated passes will create a clean cut. Once scored deeply, snap the acrylic along the line. Repeat for the remaining edges until the panel fits flush on all sides.

Set the acrylic in place and mark four screw locations, two spaced along on each top beam, about 4 inches away from the beam edges. Drill small pilot holes through the acrylic using light pressure. Secure the panel using short screws with wide flanges, tightening slowly so the acrylic is held firmly without cracking.

The bottom station is built very similarly to the top station, but smaller and without any powered components. Its job is to keep the rope properly tensioned and positioned correctly while allowing it to turn freely. Because of this, the framing process will feel familiar, but the dimensions and beam placement are slightly different. The steps below walk through the process clearly without assuming you remember every detail from the top station build.

1) Cut Trapezoid Sides

Using 3/4” plywood, mark and cut two identical trapezoids with a 24” bottom, 14” top, and 40” height. Carefully lay out the shape so both panels match exactly, then cut them using a circular saw or table saw.

2) Cut Beams

Cut nine 14-inch-long sections of 2x4 lumber. These beams are the same size as those used in the top station and will be installed throughout the bottom station frame building process. Keep the cuts consistent so the structure stays square as it goes together. Cutting all at once is optional but can save time, only 4 will be used in this step of the frame assembly.

3) Attach Bottom Beams

Space the two trapezoid panels 14 inches apart and flip them upside down so the bottom base is facing up for easy access. Support them securely using sawhorses or a workbench. Position one beam 5 inches in from the left edge of the bottom base and a second beam 5 inches in from the right edge, both flush with the bottom of the panels. Clamp, drill pilot holes, and secure each beam with two 3" screws per side.

4) Attach Side Beams

Attach two more beams to the angled sides of the plywood panels, placing each beam 5 inches from the bottom base along the slope. Fasten them firmly with four 3" screws each so the frame remains rigid and square.

This step installs the pillow block bearings that support the passive drum on the bottom station. The process is nearly identical to the top station, with only a minor difference in spacing due to the shorter shaft length.

1) Prepare Bearing Beams

Create two bearing beams by repeating parts 1–3 of the top station pillow block bearing step. Each beam should have a pillow block bearing centered and securely bolted in place. These assemblies will be installed directly into the bottom station frame.

2) Install Bearing Beams

Install the two bearing beams between the plywood sides of the bottom station. The upper bearing should sit flush with the top base of the trapezoids and be positioned 2.5 inches in from the edge. The lower bearing should be placed 7.5 inches below the top and also 2.5 inches from the edge, measured from the same dotted line shown in the diagram. Make sure both bearings face inward and are level, then secure each beam with two 3-inch screws per side.

The bottom station shaft assembly supports the passive drum, which freely rotates to guide and tension the rope. Unlike the top station, no torque is transferred here so the sprocket hub and shaft keys are not required.

1) Insert Shaft

Take the 9.5-inch section of keyed shaft cut earlier and slide it upward through the lower pillow block bearing. Only push the shaft a short distance above the bearing so there is still enough exposed length to install the drum and collars.

2) Add Drum & Shaft Collars

Following the diagram, slide a shaft collar onto the shaft between the two bearings. Next, place the passive drum onto the shaft, the orientation does not matter. Finally, slide a second shaft collar onto the shaft above the drum. Once all components are in place, continue sliding the shaft upward through the top pillow block bearing. Lock the shaft in place by tightening the smaller hex bolts on the bearings.

3) Set Drum Height

Adjust the position of the drum so it sits approximately 1 inch below the top pillow block bearing. This height keeps the rope clear of both the roof and the pipe support. Once positioned, tighten the lower shaft collar with a hex key to support the drum from below, then tighten the upper collar to prevent upward movement.

The bottom station uses the second pipe support constructed earlier to guide and bear the rope. While the installation process mirrors the top station, this support does not need a metal covering because the rope leaves the bottom station on an upward path, resulting in significantly less friction.

1) Install Pipe Support

On both trapezoid sides, mark a point 5.625 inches down the angled edge (2.125 inches down from the 2x4). Place the support between the trapezoid sides like any other beam. Rotate it until the diagonal reference lines on the support are parallel with the angled sides of the trapezoids. Adjust the height so the top of the pipe lines up with the marks on both sides and the bottom of the pipe sits flush with the angled edge.

Once aligned, drill pilot holes and secure the support with three 3-inch screws per side.

This step continues building out the bottom station frame by adding the remaining 14-inch 2x4 beams. These beams complete the structural layout and tie the sides together, using the same clamping, drilling, and fastening process as before.

1) Install Upper Rope-Side Beam

Mount a 14” beam along the top of the angled side nearest the bearings. Align it flush with the slope so the upper corner lines up with the top of the frame. Secure it using pilot holes and 3” screws.

2) Attach Upper Back Beam

Attach the final beam on the back angled side of the station. Measure 8 inches down from the top, position the beam flush with the plywood, and clamp it in place. Drill pilot holes and secure it using 3-inch screws, just like the previous beams.

The bottom station is enclosed using plywood covers cut from the same material as the rest of the build. The process closely follows the top station covers, but without an electrical pass-through and with a wooden roof instead of acrylic (though you could do either).

1) Cut Back Cover

Use a table saw or circular saw to cut a 15.5” x 35” rectangle from 3/4” plywood. Using the same diagram as the top station back cover, trace all reference lines except for the extension cord slot, which is not needed here. Drill 1” holes at the inner corners to round them, then cut the straight lines with a circular saw or table saw. Finish by cutting a 10° angle along the top edge so the cover sits flush with the roof.

2) Attach Back Cover

Align the back cover so the top and sides are flush with the station frame and the angled cut matches the slope. Mark screw locations in the middle of the upper beam, spaced 4 inches in from each side. Drill pilot holes and install two 2” screws. At the bottom, install two more 2" screws into the lower beam.

3) Cut Front Cover

Cut another 15.5” x 35” rectangle from 3/4” plywood. Use the same diagram as the top station front cover to mark the rope pass-through opening. Drill 1” holes in the top corners of the opening, then cut the remaining lines with a jigsaw or hacksaw.

4) Attach Front Cover

Place the front panel over the pipe support and align it so the top and sides are flush with the trapezoid panels. Clamp it in place, then attach it using four 2-inch screws, two into each underlying beam at the top and bottom.

5) Cut Top Cover

Trace and cut a 15.5-inch by 15.5-inch square from 3/4” plywood. This panel will sit on top of the bottom station. To match the sloped sides of the frame, cut a 10° angle on two opposite edges of the square. These angled cuts must not be parallel or on adjacent sides. They should be on opposite edges so the angled side of the station continues cleanly through the roof. When making these angled cuts, position the circular saw so that only the angled portion is removed, not any extra material from the panel’s length. The goal is to bevel the edge, not shorten the roof.

6) Attach Top Cover

Align the roof panel and fasten it to the single beam underneath using two 2" screws placed 4" in from each side.

At this point, the stations are fully functional, but there are a few optional finishing touches that can really improve how it looks and feels. I chose to paint the wooden structures matte white, which helps the build blend into the snowy environment, makes moving parts easier to see, and gives everything a clean, finished appearance. This step is completely optional, but taking a little extra time here goes a long way in making the project feel polished and intentional.

1) Prepare Stations

Take off all removable covers from both stations. On the top station, take off the front, back, and top covers, along with the light switch cover. On the bottom station, remove the front, back, and top covers. Use tape, cardboard, or paper to mask off anything that should not be painted, including the light switch, pipe supports, and extension cord.

2) Paint

Move the stations and covers to a well-ventilated, paint-safe area. Apply spray paint evenly to the trapezoid sides first, being careful not to spray into the interior of the stations. Next, paint all of the removed covers. I used Rust-Oleum 2X Coverage Matte White and needed three cans total. Use whatever color you think would look best.

3) Reassemble Stations

Once the paint is dry, remove all masking materials and reinstall the covers using the same 2-inch screws as before.

Because this setup runs outdoors and can stay powered for long periods, I added a simple 3D-printed vent to the back panel of the top station, directly behind the motor. This vent allows fresh air to flow through the enclosure while still keeping the motor protected from snow and debris. It’s not strictly required, but improving airflow can help the motor run cooler, especially during longer sessions or on warmer spring days. If you have access to a 3D printer, this is an easy upgrade that adds peace of mind with very little extra effort.

1) Print Vent

Use a 3D printer to print the provided vent file. Default print settings work fine, and no supports are needed. Choose filament that matches your station color if appearance matters to you.

2) Cut Opening

Position the vent on the back cover of the top station, measuring 10.5 inches down from the top and 4 inches in from the left side, as shown in the diagram. Trace the outline, drill a starter hole inside the traced area, and use a jigsaw to cut out the circular opening. This step can be done before or after painting.

3) Install Vent

Insert the vent so the flange sits on the outside of the panel. Drill pilot holes through the mounting points, then secure it using five 1/2-inch screws. Make sure the vent is snug but not overtightened.

In this step, the rope is cut to length and spliced into a continuous loop. I used 3/4” polypropylene rope because it is strong, waterproof, resistant to rot, and easy to grip with gloves. This rope is typically sold in 100-foot rolls, so I used two rolls instead of a single long one. That means making two splices instead of one, but it was noticeably cheaper. Either approach works, choose what makes sense for your budget and availability.

1) Cut Rope To Length

Start by determining the total rope length needed. Measure the distance of your ski area from bottom to top, double that distance, then add about 5 feet for adjustment and splicing.

For example, my slope is 90 feet long, so the calculation is:

90 x 2 + 5 = 185 feet

Since I started with 200 feet of rope, I removed 15 feet.

To cut the rope, a handheld PVC cutter works very well and creates a clean cut without fraying. A sharp utility knife also works if you take your time. Avoid using power tools like a miter saw or angle grinder, as the rope can catch in the blade and become dangerous. Once cut, keep both ends neat and ready for splicing in the next step.

2) Splice Rope

For the rope tow to operate continuously, the rope must be joined into a closed loop. This is done by splicing the rope rather than tying knots, which preserves strength and creates a smooth section that passes cleanly through the drums. Rope splicing can be difficult to explain clearly using text alone, so I'd like to share how I learned it: I followed a simple method demonstrated in a YouTube tutorial from WhyKnot. That video is linked below, and I recommend watching it once all the way through before starting.

For readers who want a quick explanation without leaving this page: this rope is joined using a short splice for three-strand synthetic rope. Because the rope is synthetic, the splice uses five tucks per side, with three rope diameters per tuck. Since this rope is 3/4” in diameter, each tuck requires 2.25 inches, for a total of about 11–12 inches per side. This is the length that should be measured and marked from the end of each rope before starting. A temporary constrictor knot is tied at this mark to prevent the rope from unraveling while working. The rope ends are unraveled and then married together so the strands from one rope sit evenly between the strands of the other. Each strand is tucked under the strand immediately to its left, then the weave continues using an over-one, under-one pattern. This sequence is repeated, rotating the rope after each tuck, until all tucks are complete on both sides. The excess strands are then trimmed, heat-sealed, and rolled in the hands to fair the rope, resulting in a strong, clean splice suitable for continuous load. Zip-ties can be used to secure the splice ends and prevent the braid from coming loose.

How To Splice 3 Stranded Rope Together - Youtube

Once the rope is tensioned, the two stations are constantly being pulled toward each other with significant force. That force is what keeps the rope straight and usable, but it also means the stations will try to slide or tip forward if they are not securely anchored. Because the rope wraps over the drums near the top of each station, the pull creates a tipping moment that wants to lift the rear bottom edge of the frame. To counter this, each station is anchored from the rear bottom corners, directly opposite the tipping direction. Heavy-duty screw-in ground anchors paired with ratchet straps make this setup extremely strong while still allowing easy adjustment of rope tension.

1) Choose Anchor Locations

Start by placing the top and bottom stations where you want them to live permanently. The rope path should be straight, close to horizontal, and slightly slack in the middle. Once the stations are positioned, mark the ground just behind each station. This is the strongest point to pull from and gives the best leverage against tipping.

2) Screw In Anchors

Each station uses three screw-in earth augers arranged in a triangle pattern. Two anchors handle the primary load, and the third is insurance in case additional tension is needed later. Push a crowbar or steel rod through the eye of each anchor and twist it into the ground until only the eye remains visible. Install them as deep as possible for maximum holding power. This is much easier when the ground is unfrozen, so install anchors before winter conditions set in. Once frozen, these anchors become extremely solid.

If you’ve made it this far, congratulations - you’ve built a fully functional rope tow from the ground up. The hard work is done, and now it’s time to set it up, flip the switch, and enjoy the ride!

1) Position Stations

Place the top station at the top of the hill and the bottom station at the bottom, facing each other. The rope path between them should be straight and free of obstacles, with both stations sitting flat and stable on the ground.

2) Wrap Rope Around Drums

Remove the top covers from both stations to access the drums. On each station, unbolt the top pillow block bearing and slide it off the shaft. Feed the rope through the front opening and wrap it around the drum so it sits naturally in the groove formed by the tires. Reinstall the bearing and top panel with their respective hardware. Repeat this process for the other station so the rope forms one continuous loop between the two.

3) Tension The System

Attach two ratchet straps from the bottom rear 2x4 of each station to the ground anchors installed earlier. Tighten the straps evenly, pulling the stations away from each other until the rope is mostly straight with a small amount of natural droop in the middle. The rope should stay off the ground and track cleanly on the drums.

4) How To Ride

This rope tow works great for skiers, snowboarders, and even sledders. Before turning it on, take a moment to check that the rope is seated properly on both drums, the anchors and straps are secure, and the path is clear of people and obstacles. Flip the switch and let the rope run unloaded for a few seconds to confirm everything is running smoothly.

To ride, grab the moving rope with a firm but relaxed grip and let it pull you uphill at a steady pace. Keep your arms slightly bent and your stance balanced. Do not wrap the rope around your hand or body. At the top, simply let go and ski away while the rope continues looping back down for the next rider. I've attached some videos of the tow rope in action below.

5) Storing The Rope Tow

When you’re done riding for the day, turn off the power at the switch and unplug the extension cord from the outlet. Coil the cord neatly and store it inside the top station or secured nearby so it stays dry and out of the way.

Next, loosen one set of ratchet straps and move the stations closer together until the rope rests on the ground with no tension. This relieves load on the rope, drums, and bearings while the system is not in use.

Both stations are enclosed and weather-resistant, so they can safely remain outside between sessions. When you’re ready to ride again, simply reposition the stations, re-tension the rope, plug in the cord, and you’re ready to go.

This rope tow took far more thought and iteration than I originally planned, but each challenge made the finished project stronger. Along the way, it became a lesson in mechanics, electricity, and trusting the design process. If you choose to build one, you’ll walk away with more than a machine, you’ll gain the satisfaction that comes from understanding how it works and knowing you built it yourself. Take your time, trust the process, and enjoy the ride.