BH-1 Mobile Work Station

This work station address two main issues that makers face while at fairs and conventions.  1. Lack of work space at events because your table is taken up by your display items, and 2. Lack of power at the display.

The BH-1 gives you plenty of storage space for tools and parts, a 16 x 30 work surface, a 500 watt power inverter, battery storage, battery charger for when power is available, and a power strip with cord storage.

Cut List for Step 1 - 4: Exterior Box and Sliding shelf lid
All 0.5" material unless Otherwise noted
1 Top = 16 x 16
2 Sides = 15 x 15
1 Front = 16 x 15.5
1 Back = 16 x 15.5

2 Shelves = 14 x 9
2 Carry handles = 1 x 2 x 14
2 Shelf Stop = 0.5 x 0.75 x 12
4 Shelf Guides = 1 x 1 x 5 notched 0.5 x 0.5 (“L” shape)

2 Bottom Trim 0.75 x 2 x 17.5
2 Bottom Trim 0.75 x 2 x 16

Center the two shelf stops along one end of each shelf (long edge). Secure with glue and screws. Set aside. Locate the shelf guides 0.5" in from each corner and edge of the top as shown below, be sure to place the notch inward. These will hold the shelf in place.

Once Secure, Test fit the shelves. They should slide easily. If they are tight, sand the shelf's a bit until the fit is good. Round Out side corners.

Assemble the Exterior Box as shown using the Sides, front and Back pieces. Use glue and screws as needed.

Test fit the top but do not secure at this time. We will do that later

The Handle pieces are made of 1 x 2 pine. Sand the edges and round the corners of one side of each end. I added a cove to the underside of the handle as well for a finger hold.

Apply glue to the handles and clamp in place on the short sides of the exterior. Secure with screws from the inside of the box.

The handles will also serve as added Shelf support.

Apply the bottom trim around the perimeter of the box. Glue and clamp each piece in place and secure with screws from the inside of the box, just like the handles.

Cut list for steps 5 – 12: The inside box
All 0.5" material unless Otherwise noted
1 Top = 15 x 15
1 Bottom 15 x 15
1 Sub Bottom 15 x 14
2 Sides = 15 x 13.5

1 inside back = 14 x 13
1 Shelf = 14 x 10
1 Shelf Front = 2 x 14
2 Shelf Supports = 1.5 x 0.75 x 10

8 Drawer guides = 0.5” x 0.75” x 10 Aluminum angle
1 – 3 15/16" spacer
1 – 2 15/16" spacer
1 – 1 15/16" spacer

Attach the bottom (15x15) to the Sub bottom (15x14), be sure to review the pictures before assembly. Be sure the grain runs the opposite direction of each other during assembly. Apply ample glue to both boards. Sandwich the two board’s together, center the shorter sub bottom on the 15x15 bottom, leaving a 0.5” on two of the edges. Screw threw the bottom (15x15) into the sub bottom (15x14) piece.

Attach the side walls to the bottom as shown. Note the first picture shows the box upside down.

Pick one side or the other to be the back of the box. From the back edge, measure 4.25” in and mark a line from top to bottom as in the picture above. Drill and countersink 4 screw holes along this line on both sides. Note that it is important the screw heads do not protrude above the surface of the wood.

Before completing this step, look ahead to step 11. A router will be needed to cut a notch in the Inside Back. If you do not have a small router, you may want to cut this notch before assembly.

Glue and insert the inside Back piece in between the two sides. Space the Inside back 4” in from the back edge of the box. Secure with screws in the holes drilled in the previous step.

Glue and secure inside shelf supports as shown.

Lay the box on the side. Using the spacers, line up the drawer guides as shown. Secure the Aluminum guides with 0.5” screws. Repeat for opposite side.

Secure Shelf to shelf supports as shown and screw threw inside back wall into shelf edge.

Use a router and a flush cut bit to notch out the inside back wall. The notch will be as wide as the router base will allow and 1.5” deep. This provides access to the cubby from the back side.

Secure the 15x15 top to the Box and attach the Shelf Front. This will create Power cord storage accessible from the back. Now place the External box over the internal box. The Larger box should slide over the smaller box easily. If things are tight, pull apart and sand the walls of the inner box some to relive the snugness.

Cut List for Steps 13 – 20

1 drawer fronts and backs = 24 x 14 (all fronts and backs will be cut from this board)
1 Drawer sides = 24 x 9.5 (all drawer sides will be cut from this board)
4 drawer bottoms = 0.25 x 9.5 x 13.5

Note that you want the grain running in the shorter direction

This step adds slots for drawer dividers. If you don’t want to be able to add drawer dividers to your drawers, then you can skip this step and go to step 14.
Cut a single blade width 0.25” deep length wise into the 24 x 14” board. This will be used for the fronts and backs of each drawer. Cutting the slots now will ensure that the divider slots line up when the drawers are assembled. First set the saw fence at 1.5” and make a cut, then reverse the board and make a second cut from the opposite side. Move the saw fence inward 1” and repeat. (Note: I cut both boards on accident, you only need to cut one)

Using the 24 x 14” Board cut the following sizes

1 Front = 3.9375” (3 15/16)
1 Front = 2.9375
2 Fronts = 1.9375
1 Back = 3.5”
1 Back = 2.5”
2 Backs = 1.5”

Use the other board to cut these sizes.

2 Sides = 3.5”
2 Sides = 2.5”
4 Sides = 1.5”

You should end up with parts to make 4 complete drawers. The Drawer fronts should be 0.5” taller than the sides and rear.

Cut a 0.25” x 0.25” notch out of each piece, be sure to cut from the inside of the drawer. Set the saw fence to 0.25” and set the blade height to 0.25”. With the inside of the drawer piece face down make the first cut.

Stand the piece up on edge and place the inside of the drawer against the fence and make the second cut.

Assemble the drawers so the sides are inside the front and back, and be sure the 0.25” x 0.25” notch on all pieces are inward. Note that the front piece is 0.5” taller than all the other sides. During assembly make sure all the bottom edges are flush.

Assemble the drawer Bottoms with glue and staples

Using a 5/8” or ¾” Fostner Bit, center and mark 2 holes about 2” apart. Drill 3/8” deep – not all the way through so parts don’t fall out of the holes.

The Box can become heavy so adding wheels is a good idea. I also wanted to be able to use a fold up dolly so I was sure to place the wheels so they do not interfere with the dolly bottom. Place the box on the dolly and mark where the openings are and mount the rear wheels. Then mount the front wheels.
Remember that the bottom is 1” thick so you can use a #10 Lag

In this version I will use ¼” pins to lock the box open and in the closed position. For this you will need 4 pins, 2-7/8"  long using ¼” Aluminum rod. On the handles added in step 3 and make 2 marks. One 2” from the front edge, 5/8” up from the bottom, and one 10” in from the front edge and 5/8” up from the bottom.

Transfer the vertical marks to the bottom trim using a square. And again 5/8” up from the bottom.

Slide the outside box over the inside box and drill a 0.25” hole through the handles into and through the inside box.

I used my 3D printer to print some nice knobs to put on the end of the ¼” rods.

Cut a piece of Galvanized steel 15-15/16" x 15-15/16". Use high strength spray adhesive, lightly coat both the Galv steel and the wood top. This will protect the top and give you something to stick magnets to.

Use 0.5" x 0.75" Angle Aluminum to trim out the top. Cut 4 pieces mitered 45 degrees, as shown.

Drill 3 holes along the length of the 0.75" edge. Counter sink the holes so the screw heads are flush.

Use double sided tape to hold the aluminum pieces in place. Place the top onto the box. I suggest not to glue this top, so the top can be removed later if needed.
Pre-drill the screw holes along the wall edges and screw the top to the box with #6 x 1.25" screws. Use #6 x 0.25" screw in the holes along the shelf edges so as not to screw the sliding shelf's closed.

Use some 0.5" x  0.75" Angle aluminum and attach it to the edge of the sliding shelf's to stiffen the shelf and serve as handles.

Trim the corners of the outer box with 0.75" x 0.75" and secure with Double sided tape

If you paint the box, keep in mind that thick paint could cause the box and drawers to stick. I simply used wood sealer and then wiped with furniture polish which makes the wood slide nicely.

File the tips of the pins down a bit to a bullet shape. This will help line up the holes with the pins.

Add a 1/2" Strip magnet to the inside edge of both sliding shelves. This will hold the shelves in the closed position.

Parts:
Stanly 500 Watt Inverter
Stanly Battery Charger
Power Strip w/ Cord
4  - 12 volt 5 Amp Hour Batteries

Mount the Inverter, Charger, and power strip as shown. Wire the components as described in the wire diagram. Tuck the power cord from the power strip up into the cord storage area. There should also be lots of room for an extension cord if needed.

When power is available, plug in the power strip and the charger will charge the batteries. If poser is not available, then turn on the Inverter and the batteries will provide enough power to run a small laptop, charge cell phones or even power a soldering iron or charge robot batteries.

any number of batteries can be used, but I recommend either 2 or 4. 4 Batteries does add some weight to the box.

Be sure to connect your hot and ground to the batteries from opposite ends as shown in the diagram, This will help insure that the batteries charge and discharge more evenly.

Use for:
Trade and Maker shows.
Add an easel and store art supplies to make a mobile art display.
Mobile work station for Robot competitions.
Store Lego's and instead of steel on the top, glue Lego plates to it and have a place to build.