Animated Wooden Water Fountain With LED & Water Flow Patterns

Welcome to this unique DIY project, where artistry meets technology in the form of a pattern-driven animated wooden fountain. This project showcases the creative use of dynamic LED patterns to control water flow, bringing together light, motion, and structure in a mesmerizing display. Built from old pine wood and featuring a walnut harp centerpiece, the fountain combines natural materials with modern tech to create constantly changing, captivating water animations.

In designing this project, I set out with two primary goals. First, to craft a beautiful fountain from old wood using simple tools I have, and second, to realize an innovative use of animated LED patterns that could control water flow. The patterns designed for addressable LED strips synchronize with 24 mini water pumps, where each pump mirrors the brightness of specific LED pixels, producing a seamless and flowing water effect. The harp at the center features strings made from water streams, with animated lighting adding a unique touch.

With WLED’s customizable patterns, the fountain never looks the same twice—every adjustment to colors or patterns produces a new visual experience. In addition to the visual impact, the project is WiFi-controlled, integrates with smart home systems, and supports scheduling, making it both a dynamic and adaptable addition to any space.

The video is about the process of making

Animated Wooden Water Fountain with LED & Water Flow Patterns

#fountain #DIY #wooden #ESP32 #WLED #LED #Animation #water #PWM #Woodworking #woodcraft #lasercutting

GitHub Link

Components

1. Pine board: 200 x 30 mm and 100 x 20 mm
2. Pine timber: 40 mm
3. Walnut veneer, planed: 4.5 mm
4. Walnut veneer, planed: 2.5 mm
5. Screws: 3.5 x 65 mm
6. Plastic bolts M8, 30 mm, and nuts
7. Titebond 3 wood glue
8. CA gel glue (Akrifix 705) + Activator
9. CA liquid glue (Akrifix 702)
10. UV epoxy resin, viscous
11. Epoxy resin, 16-hour gelation time (fluid) 3L
12. Epoxy resin, 1-hour gelation time (viscous) 3L
13. Green pigment for epoxy resin
14. Glossy acrylic spray lacquer
15. Copper tube for AC systems, D = 9.52 mm
16. Copper tube for AC systems, D = 6.35 mm
17. Capillary copper tube, D = 2.5 mm
18. PVC tube 6x9 mm (for condensation drainage)
19. Painter’s tape
20. Teflon plumbing tape
21. Hot glue sticks
22. Sandpaper
23. “Coral” grinding disc for angle grinder

Electronic Components

1. 1x ESP32-WROOM-32 controller
2. 2x PCA9685 16-channel PWM controller
3. 1x PCF8591 ADC/DAC module (optional)
4. 1x DFPlayer mini MP3 module (optional)
5. 1x INMP441 microphone (optional)
6. 1x Metal speaker, 8 Ohm, 2W (optional)
7. 24x 390 Ohm resistors
8. 24x PC817 optocouplers
9. 24x 0.1 µF capacitors
10. 30x Terminal connectors
11. 24x FR207 diodes
12. 1x FR607 diode
13. 24x TA6586 motor drivers
14. 1x MOSFET module with optocoupler
15. 2x Prototype PCB board, 90x150 mm
16. Shielded multi-core wire
17. Colored and hookup wires
18. WS2812b addressable LED strip, 60 LEDs/meter
19. 24x Mini silent submersible pumps, 5V, 120L/H
20. 1x Brushless mini submersible pump, 12V, 4L/M
21. 2x 40-pin male-to-female connectors
22. 1x XL4016 DC-DC step-down module
23. 12V gel battery
24. 5V 3A power bank

Tools

1. DIY laser cutter/engraver, 520x520 mm, 5.5W
2. Disc sander
3. Hand router with 10 mm round-over bit, 12x50 mm straight bit, and 50 mm flattening bit
4. Hot glue gun
5. Soldering iron
6. ST-369 manual pipe bender, 180° (1/4”, 5/16”, 3/8”)
7. Capillary scissors for copper tubes
8. Copper tube cutter
9. Gas torch
10. Dremel tool
11. Metal wire brush for texturing
12. Screwdriver
13. Angle grinder
14. Hand saw

1. Mark and cut the boards for the base. I designed the fountain to be 60 cm in diameter, so I added a margin of 3-5 cm on each side.
2. Cut the boards to size using a hand saw.
3. Next, we need to level the surface and ensure a consistent thickness.
4. I used a simple rail setup made from particle board (chipboard) and a hand router.
5. For routing, I used a 50 mm flattening bit.
6. To secure the boards to the table, I used hot glue.

Now that both surfaces of boards are prepared, it’s time to join the boards together.

1. I straightened the side edges using a hand router with a 50 mm straight bit, using any available material as a guide.
2. To ensure a strong structure, I made side holes for dowels. I created a simple template from a piece of wood and drilled all the holes using it.
3. A helpful tip is to protect the boards that will press the panel after gluing by covering them with tape.
4. Apply waterproof glue to the edges of the boards, insert the dowels, and clamp the boards together.
5. I used strap clamps along the length and additional pressure clamps to level the boards vertically.
6. Once the glue dried, I scraped off any excess glue with a scraper and sanded the surface with 100 grit sandpaper.

I was concerned that the base of the fountain might bend or warp under the water pressure, so I decided to strengthen it with an additional layer of boards. I repeated the same steps as in the previous process, with a few adjustments. For this layer, I used 100 x 20 mm boards.

1. Measure and cut the boards to match the dimensions of the main panel.
2. Level the surface of each board using an electric planer.
3. Important! Attach the second layer perpendicular to the boards in the first layer to increase durability.
4. Smooth the surface and remove any excess glue with the electric planer.
5. Sand the panel using a 100-grit sanding disc.

To cut a circle, I used a hand router with a 50 mm straight bit. I attached a wooden guide to the router and marked the distance on it to match the radius of the desired circle.

1. Mark the center of the wooden panel and drill a hole for the screw.
2. Measure the distance from the center to the router bit and attach the guide to the center of the panel.
3. Slowly move the router along the circle, lowering the bit depth with each pass.
4. For the final pass, move carefully to avoid chipping the edges.

For the edge of the fountain, I used old 40 x 40 mm beams (or so I thought initially!).

1. Level the sides with a hand router or electric planer.
2. Cut the beams into shorter pieces, each 130 mm in length.You will need 49 pieces in total (initially, I planned for 48, but after processing, the size decreased by 2-3 mm).
3. Smooth the top and bottom surfaces of each piece using a hand router with a 50 mm straight bit.
4. Sand the edges with a 100-grit sanding disc.

At this stage, it’s necessary to prepare the area and attachment points for the fountain’s edge. I glued the pieces with waterproof wood glue and added extra security by fastening them with 3.5 x 65 mm screws.

1. Measure and draw a circle with an offset from the edge of the base equal to the thickness of the edge pieces (in my case, around 38 mm).
2. Apply painter’s tape inside the drawn circle to prevent glue drips. Trim the tape along the circle.
3. Mark the spots where each edge piece will be attached. I used a caliper to step along the circumference evenly.
4. Mark the centers where each edge piece will be secured.
5. Drill holes for the screws through the base at the center of each marked spot.
6. Chamfer the holes on the underside of the base and set the screws so they slightly protrude.
7. Drill a screw hole at the center of the edge piece.

First, I positioned all the edge pieces along the base to ensure that my markings were accurate. I worked in small batches to prevent the glue from drying too quickly.

1. Apply glue to the surface edge of the base.
2. Place each edge piece so that the slightly protruding screw aligns with the hole in the piece.
3. Tighten the screw to secure the piece to the base.
4. After setting each batch of pieces, adjust their alignment along the base’s circumference.

Initially, I had planned for the edge pieces to be a bit thicker, so I expected the gaps to be minimal. But, working with what I had, I used a thick, two-component epoxy resin with a 1-hour gel time to seal the gaps. To make the pouring process easier, I placed the fountain frame vertically and worked in sections (about five gaps at a time). After 4-6 hours, when the resin thickened, I rotated the fountain frame and repeated the process. In total, this took about 3-4 days.

1. Thoroughly tape the gaps on the inside of the fountain frame with plumber’s tape.
2. Mix the two-component resin according to the instructions.
3. I added a bit of dark green pigment, as the fountain will be placed in my mother’s garden!
4. Stir the resin thoroughly.
5. Pour in small batches until all gaps are sealed.

Pro Tip: If bubbles appear in the epoxy, spray a bit of alcohol over them. The alcohol dissolves the resin on the surface, making the bubbles disappear quickly.

Despite my best efforts to be careful with the epoxy, some of it still seeped through, so I needed to remove the excess and smooth both the inner and outer walls of the fountain. After a bit of research, I found a “Coral” grinding disc for the angle grinder—and I have to say, it worked wonderfully.

Important! Prepare for a lot of dust. Be sure to protect your eyes and respiratory system thoroughly.

1. Remove the plumber’s tape.
2. Use the “Coral” disc on the angle grinder to remove any remaining epoxy and round off the fountain wall surfaces.
3. Use a 100-grit sanding disc to remove any epoxy from the base.

Since LED lighting and pumps require electrical wiring, it’s essential to plan their placement in advance.

1. Drill 25 through-holes along the fountain wall using a 6 mm drill bit. These holes will be used for powering the 24 submersible pump and for the led strip.
2. In the center, drill two additional holes—one for the pump connected to the wooden harp and another for the addressable LED strip.
3. On the underside, use a hand router with a straight bit and guides to create channels for neatly routing the electrical wires in the future.

To enhance the aesthetics, I decided to round all the edges of the fountain frame, both outer and inner. For this, I used a 10 mm round-over bit and a hand router.

After the previous steps, the surface was still quite rough, so I decided to refine it a bit and add some decorative texture.

1. I smoothed the surface with a soft attachment and a 150-grit sanding disc.
2. Next, I added some texture using a metal wire brush.
3. Finally, I lightly scorched the wood with a gas torch to enhance the natural grain.

Caution! Avoid directing the torch flame onto the epoxy resin, or limit exposure time, as it can crack or ignite.

To waterproof the wood, I used two types of epoxy resin:

1. A very fluid epoxy with a 16-hour gel time, which absorbs well into the wood and allows for extended working time.

2. A thicker epoxy with a 1-hour gel time, which is more viscous and creates a durable protective layer.

A silicone brush is very handy for this step, as cured resin can be easily removed from it, allowing for repeated use.

1. Before coating the back of the fountain base, I covered all holes with plumber’s tape from inside.
2. Apply the fluid epoxy. Since it remains liquid for a long time, you can reapply multiple times a day. I applied 3-4 coats daily until the wood stopped absorbing the resin.
3. Allow the resin to cure (4-7 days). This soaking process makes the wood very strong, as most of the resin is absorbed.
4. Coat with the thicker epoxy to create a durable 1-2 mm layer. I mixed a small amount of epoxy to prevent overheating, as large quantities of this resin can cause it to boil. Aim to coat the surface within an hour, as it becomes very viscous after that. I applied two coats to the back of the fountain, with each layer curing for 2-4 days.
5. Seal all holes on the underside of the fountain with a hot glue gun (since not all holes were filled with resin, I wanted to ensure they were watertight).
6. Flip the fountain and place it on a stand.
7. Coat the fountain walls inside and out, repeating the steps with the fluid and thick epoxy.

Tip: While the resin is still curing, it may drip down the edges of the fountain, forming drops at the bottom. It’s easiest to remove these while the resin is still soft.

Before attaching the addressable LED strip, I soldered a flexible T-board with wires to it.

1. Drill a 3 mm hole in the base for the wires (just the center of the hole we made earlier).
2. Feed the wires through the hole.
3. Attach the LED strip to the inner side of the fountain wall, leaving about a 4 cm gap from the top edge.
4. Temporarily secure the wires in place with painter’s tape.
5. Firmly secure the wires using viscous UV resin and a UV lamp.
6. Seal the wire hole on the underside of the fountain base with UV resin.
7. Before coating the LED strip, I temporarily connected it to the ESP32 controller to ensure it was working.
8. Coat the inner side of the fountain wall and the LED strip with thick epoxy resin until the strip is fully covered. I repeated this process three times, allowing curing time between layers.

The mini pumps I used don’t have clear mounting points, so I designed wooden mounts using 4 mm-wide cable ties for secure placement.

1. Cut the template on a laser cutter; I used planed veneer, 4.5 mm thick (layout attached).
2. Glue the parts together with superglue as shown in the image.
3. Insert the cable tie into the slots.
4. For a polished look, I spray-painted the mini pumps with copper-colored waterproof acrylic paint.
5. Cut approximately 150 mm of 6.35 mm diameter copper tubing (typically used for AC systems).
6. Bend the tube at a 135-degree angle using a manual tube bender.
7. Make a 45-degree bend in the tube, securing it at the end of the previous bend.
8. Trim any excess length that was used to grip the tube in the bender.
9. Cut a 25-30 mm piece of PVC tubing.
10. Connect the copper tube to the pump using the PVC tube segment.

Repeat these steps 24 times.

Since the mounts will be submerged in water, they need added durability. I prepared 160 ml of fluid epoxy resin and fully submerged the mounts, allowing the wood to absorb the resin. I first dipped the top, then the bottom, making sure part of the cable tie was not covered in resin so that the locking mechanism remained functional.

After coating, I hung the mounts to let excess resin drip off, securing them using the same cable ties.

Before attaching the pump mounts to the inner side of the fountain, I drilled 3 mm holes for the wires. I drilled these holes at the center of the existing 6 mm resin-filled holes. My idea is that the edges of these holes won’t touch the wood, preventing water from entering the wood through capillary action.

1. Drill 3 mm through-holes for the wires.
2. Drill 12 mm hole, 1-2 cm deep in the center, using a Forstner bit. This hole will be used for the plastic bolt that holds the harp.
3. Attach the mini pump holders, leaving a 5 mm gap from the base (to allow for water intake). I used super glue with an activator for temporary attachment. Then, I secured all mounts firmly with UV resin.

1. Feed the wires of the mini pump through the hole in the base.
2. Place the pump into its mount.
3. Tighten the cable tie to secure the pump.
4. Trim off any excess length of the cable tie.

1. Drill two 3 mm holes at the center; these will be used to power the harp pump and the LED strip.
2. Secure the plastic bolt with super glue.
3. Feed the wires of the mini pump through the hole.
4. Use a PVC tube to attach the pump to the plastic bolt.
5. Thread four wires through the hole, leaving about 30 cm outside (these wires are for the LED strip in the harp).
6. Secure the wires at a distance from the base.
7. From the underside of the base, seal the wires in the holes with hot glue and secure them within the channel.

Prevent epoxy from covering the pump and wires when pouring the base.

1. Place the fountain on a level surface to ensure the resin spreads evenly.
2. Mix the epoxy resin components according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
3. Pour the resin into the base, ensuring it fills all uneven areas.
4. Wait for the resin to fully cure

Be careful during this process to avoid getting resin on the pumps.

This process is simple but requires careful handling to avoid breaking anything. Insert the copper tube into the PVC tubing attached to the pump, and secure the top of the tube in the holder.

I noticed that almost every fountain has something interesting at its center, so I decided to create a wooden harp. To enhance its visual appeal, I designed the harp strings as water streams with animated lighting.

1. Cut the parts using a laser cutter. I used planed walnut veneer, 4.5 mm thick (template attached).
2. The side section is glued in a “sandwich” format with four layers, using waterproof wood glue. I used small clamps to secure it during drying.
3. The top section is assembled in a similar way. As shown in the image, the top includes a slot for the water flute.
4. The main section is assembled like origami, following the order in the image. I used painter’s tape to hold the pieces together since the shape is complex.

I wanted the harp to look less like it was made on a laser cutter, so I aimed to soften the rough edges and joints by rounding them.

While it’s possible to do all the work manually, I decided to speed up the process using a sander and a Dremel with a 100-grit cylindrical sanding attachment.

1. Sand all faces of the parts to remove any burn marks from laser cutting, using the sander.
2. Round off all edges of the parts with the Dremel and sanding attachment.

I designed the harp so that all its main parts have slots for easy assembly. The process is straightforward: apply glue to the slots and insert the parts into place. The side section is glued to the top section through a wooden adapter.

For the harp stand, I decided to use a piece of acacia log I found among some firewood. Acacia is a dense wood, so this took a bit of effort.

I wanted to keep the bark on the log, even though it had started to come loose. To preserve it, I treated part of the bark and log with ultra-thin CA glue.

Warning: CA glue fumes are highly toxic, so be sure to work in a well-ventilated area and protect your eyes and respiratory system.

1. Saw off any excess from the log. I made the stand 12 cm high.
2. Cut a 60 mm wide, 70 mm deep slot using a hand router. This slot will house the mini submersible pump for the harp.
3. Drill one through-hole and two 2 cm deep holes using a 12 mm Forstner bit. I used a laser-cut template of the harp base for alignment.
4. Secure two plastic M8 bolts in the holes with CA glue and an activator. The central hole will be used for the water supply tube, and the bolts will hold the harp in place on the stand.

We need to coat all wooden parts with epoxy to protect them from water. As before, I did this in multiple stages, starting with a fluid epoxy for thorough penetration. Carefully coat all surfaces; since it has a 16-hour gel time, you can reapply several times throughout the day. Next, I hung the harp on thin wire and wiped away any drips while the epoxy was still liquid.

After the previous step, some wood fibers lifted, especially along the edges. I sanded the surface with 200-600 grit sandpaper to smooth it out. Then, I applied a final layer of thicker epoxy, creating a durable protective coating on the harp and stand.

In the harp design, I included two slots specifically for the LED strip. Before adding the strip, I soldered the power and control wires to it.

1. Attach the LED strip inside the slot on the main part of the harp.
2. Attach the LED strip inside the slot on the side part of the harp.
3. Feed the wires through so they exit from the back of the main part of the harp.
4. Cover the LED strip with epoxy resin until the slot is completely filled. For the curved side part, I used thick UV resin (it cures well in direct sunlight), and for the main part, I used standard epoxy resin.

For added durability, I decided to coat the wooden harp with an automotive-grade acrylic spray lacquer. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions; I applied a thin layer, repeating the process three times.

Warning: Before applying lacquer to the epoxy resin, test for compatibility. Some lacquers containing acetone or alcohol can dissolve the epoxy, leaving a rough or blurred surface.

In my design, the harp strings are represented by water streams, so I needed to create a water flute that would direct small jets of water. Since I wasn’t confident I could drill precise holes for exact stream direction, I added small capillary tubes that can be adjusted to aim the streams as needed.

1. Laser-cut a template for the top of the harp (this helps with adjusting the tube bend).
2. Bend a 9.52 mm copper tube to fit the template shape.
3. Trim any excess tube length from the ends.
4. Polish the tube with fine sandpaper.
5. Solder a 6.35 mm diameter adapter to the tube.
6. Solder a piece of copper sheet to seal the tube (I made this from a tube section flattened with a hammer). My soldering iron was strong enough for this.
7. Mark and drill holes in the curved tube for the flute.
8. Cut 30 mm sections of capillary copper tubing.
9. Insert the capillary tubes into the drilled holes.
10. Apply solder (I used a 65W soldering iron to add a small amount of solder at the joints).
11. Apply flux at the connection points.
12. Heat with a gas torch until the copper tube reaches solder-melting temperature; the solder will flow and seal the gaps by capillary action.
13. Place the water flute in the slot at the top of the harp and secure it with UV resin.

This was my first experience soldering copper tubes with a gas torch, but it was enjoyable, and after a few attempts, I achieved the desired result.

1. Attach the PVC tube to the mini water pump.
2. Feed the PVC tube through the hole in the stand so that the pump sits in the slot.
3. Pass the wires from the fountain base through the same hole in the stand.
4. Place the stand onto the plastic bolt in the fountain base and tighten it (I glued a small wooden piece with a hole to the bottom of the stand using super glue and epoxy resin).
5. Position the harp on the stand and secure it by tightening two plastic bolts.
6. Attach the PVC tube to the end of the copper water flute tube.
7. Solder the wires from the fountain base to the wires of the LED strip in the harp, and insulate them with heat-shrink tubing.

The final version of the electronics took me about two weeks to complete, primarily due to electromagnetic interference (EMI) caused by the mini pumps. Here are some details…

At the start, I built a small proof of concept, connecting a few mini pumps through a TA6586 motor driver directly to the ESP32 controller, and everything worked smoothly.

However, when I assembled the full setup with the PCA9685, it became very unstable (freezing every 5-30 seconds). High-speed diodes and filter capacitors for pump power helped somewhat but didn’t resolve the issue.

Next, I separated the logic power supply from the pump power supply using PC817 optocouplers. This improved stability but wasn’t perfect, as occasional freezes still occurred.

In a forum, I found that the I2C bus is highly sensitive to interference. So, I tried using shielded, grounded cables with very short lengths for power and data transmission over I2C. And just like magic, this worked! For added security, I included a ferrite core and looped the cable through it.

This setup requires two separate power sources: 5V for the logic and addressable LED strip, and 12V for the harp pump, which also powers the mini pumps through a 5V DC step-down converter.

A larger version of the circuit diagram is available on GitHub.

Instead of ordering a custom PCB, I assembled the components on a 90x150 mm prototype PCB board.

Some components are optional:

1. The PCF8591 ADC/DAC module can be used to connect multiple potentiometers if you want to adjust fountain parameters with them.
2. The INMP441 microphone can be used to create sound-responsive light and water effects, so the fountain could react to sounds like birdsong.
3. The DFPlayer mini MP3 module is an option if you want to add sound effects to the fountain’s animations.

These options are also available in the firmware.

I tested the microphone with the light and water effects, and the result was very interesting—I highly recommend trying it!

Later I added 2 x 40 pin connectors on the fountain side and electronic side for ease of assembly/disassembly.

For the firmware, I built upon my existing work from a previous project: Wooden Reactor Simulator Nightlight Desk Lamp Sound & Light Effects.

I made minor adjustments to account for the signal inversion caused by the optocouplers in the circuit, which I compensated for in the software.

The core of the firmware is based on WLED with a custom-developed Usermod specifically for the fountain.

This offers a variety of features and functionalities:

1. Numerous built-in effects
2. Control via WiFi, mobile app, and web browser
3. Smart home integration
4. Scheduled alarms
5. And much more.

Just imagine the possibilities! You can set the fountain to turn on and off according to a schedule, change effects based on external conditions, control it from your phone, and much more.

Unfortunately, WLED doesn’t natively support some components used in this project: the PCA9685 PWM controller, PCF8591 ADC module, and DFPlayer MP3 module. Therefore, I added support for these through my usermod.

The principle for controlling the mini pumps through WLED is straightforward. I created a reflection function that maps brightness from a “virtual” addressable LED strip to PWM, routed through the PCA9685 PWM modules. In the code, I only account for the brightness of the green color channel for each pixel in the “virtual” LED strip. So, if you want to use WLED’s default effects, select green or white colors in the palette.

The necessary WLED settings are shown in the image.

If you don’t want to configure them manually, you can download the cfg.json file and upload it in the editor:

http://your_reactor_ip/edit

For effect presets, use preset.json.

The first 24 LEDs in the virtual strip control the 24 mini pumps inside the fountain.

The 25th controls the harp’s water flute pump.

I won’t go into detail on compiling/loading the firmware here, as this is well-documented on the original WLED project site.

If you wish to compile it yourself, the source code is available in my GitHub repository.

I also uploaded a precompiled binary file to the repository.

Quick guides:

How to compile

How to install binary

I made this fountain for my mother’s garden. I placed the fountain body on a tree stump, which harmoniously blends into the design (I may look for a larger stump in the future). Currently, the fountain is powered by a 12V gel battery and a 5V 2A power bank, as I don’t want to run a dedicated power line to the garden.

This is also one reason I haven’t yet created a case for the electronic components. I’d like to add solar panels, but that’s a project for the spring. Right now, it’s October, and nighttime temperatures are close to 0°C, so it’s time to prepare the fountain for winter.

These past three months have been an exciting journey, and I’m thrilled with the result—it truly has that “wow” effect. Neighbors stop in their tracks when they see this blend of technical and artistic creativity.

I’ve left built-in options for enhancing the fountain, hoping others might want to recreate and improve upon it.

The video at the beginning and end of this guide demonstrates the fountain at different times of day (as well as I could capture on my phone) and includes a video tutorial of the build process (condensing 30 hours into 30 minutes to keep it concise).

You can find links to my GitHub, YouTube, and Instagram at the top of my profile, where I share source code and updates on my other projects.

Thank you for reading!