Air Rainbow Generator

Our family has enjoyed the sun light and how it bounces off objects. We race to the windows to see real rainbows after a rain. I notice all the reflections of objects in the house and how the colors travel around the rooms with the movement of the sun.

This is how I came to making the AIR RAINBOW GENERATOR by combining Candlestick holder with interchangeable toppers - doorknobs and marbles.

I made a stand and holders along with a homemade fan blade.

Using the airflow from the furnace floor register to spin a fan, which in turn spins the toppers to shoot out the sun’s rays from the window in all colors of the rainbow.

I designed it to change out the topper to change the color and patterns.

This creates a compound movement of colors and shapes as the sun moves across the sky the topper is also spinning.

Glorious colors

Supplies

Candle holder glass - with crystal leaves
Door know handles glass - with cut bevels
Marbles
blue
red
clear
in side leaf
#10 - 24 thread rod - 36 inches
#10 - 24 thread rod connector
3X Nuts #10 - 24 thread
4X washer 3/16 inner diameter
1/4 inch OD with 3/16 ID steel tube - used automotive brake line need approximately 4 inches
7/16 inch OD steel rod for down rod 48 inches
3/8 inch OD steel rod for cross rods 2X to 12 inch lengths
2X - 3/8 and 1/4 outside diameters adjustable swivel rod holders CLAMPS
2X - 3/8 and 7/16 outside diameters adjustable swivel rod holders CLAMPS
Wood 8 by 8 by 2 inch - I used mahogany
Blue tape
Adjustable feet
Oil - I used clock oil on the contact points
towels paper
ISP Isopropyl Alcohol
Sheet aluminum cut to 10 inch by 10 inch
Aluminum - Trim coil used for house siding (thickness - nominal 0.022 or 0.024 inch)

Downloads

air rainbow generator.pdf

TOOLS

Design and layout tools
Steel ruler
Compass
drawing pencil
black marker - I use sharpie
blue glass metal marker
Micrometer
tape measure
45 degree drawing angle guide
24 inch level beam
Power
Cordless Drill
Power hand grinder
Drill press - optional
Hand Tools
2 1/2 inch bench vise
Drills
7/16 - drill the base for down rod
3/16 - open up the steel tube after cutting
1/2 - first hole for marble holding
13/16 - taper for first hole for marble holding
5/16 - for base adjustable feet
3/16 - glass cutting
2X adjustable wrench small
2X small pliers
Large pliers to hold items while drill or working on
hammer - metal face and a soft face for installing the plastic inserts for adjustable feet
file for metal
tin snips - metal cutters
Awl for hole marking - see my instructable on how to make
razor knife
pipe cutter
metal hack saw
deburring knife
T handle reamer for cleaning the tube holes

Cut Stock to Size

Rod and tube
#10 - 24 thread rod - 36 inches NO CUTTING REQUIRED
1/4 inch OD with 3/16 ID steel tube - used automotive brake line need approximately 4 inches
Using tube cutter
cut 3X pieces to 1 inch in length
drill out holes because of the tube cutter pushes material inward
use t handle reamer to put a slight chamfer in the each end of the tube pieces
7/16 inch OD steel rod for down rod 48 inches NO CUTTING REQUIRED
3/8 inch OD steel rod for cross rods 2X to 12 inch lengths
using hack saw
cut 2X pieces to 12 inches in length
file off burrs
Wood - 1X
suggest a hardwood because of its weight and strength - I used mahogany
8 by 8 by 2 inch -
the 2 inch height was good,
I would suggest a 8 by 12 inches to offset / counter balance the spinning shaft and fan weight
Sheet aluminum 1X
cut to 10 inch by 10 inch
Aluminum - Trim coil used for house siding (thickness - nominal 0.022 or 0.024 inch)
See the step on making the fan for further cutting of aluminum

Drill the Candle Base

Drill The Candle Base

To mount the candle base on to the spinning shaft a 3/16 hole will need to be drilled.

I blue taped the leaves to protect from damage

I used glass carbide spade bit in my drill press at low speed and used with lots of oil

the cup for the candle worked well to collect the oil.

TAKE YOUR TIME AND USE OIL

I removed the bit several time and put oil on the bit to cool

Drill BASE for Downward Shaft / Feet (install) / Marble Holders

ON WOOD BASE - Drill BASE For Downward Shaft / Feet / Marble Holders

I used my awl to start all the drill holes

Drill BASE For Downward Shaft

TOP SURFACE
7/16 - drill the base for down rod / shaft
blue tape for depth indicator
2 inches from edge and in the center at 4 inches use awl
drill down 1 3/4 inches deep
use micrometer to check if needed

Drill BASE For Feet

BOTTOM SURFACE
5/16 - for base adjustable feet
blue tape for depth indicator
used ruler to draw cross X on bottom of wood
measure 1 inch from each corner on cross line
use awl to mark drill points
drill down approximately 3/4 inches deep
use micrometer to check if needed

Install plastic feet inserts

small in first
Hit with hammer to seat inserts into wood
Screw legs in inserts
I screwed them all the way in to start
adjust to level after final assembly

Drill BASE For Marble Holders

TOP SURFACE
3 inches from edge
approximately 1 inch apart
1/2 - standard drill holes for marble holding 1/2 inch deep
Use tape for depth optional
13/16 - bevel/taper drill bit for holes for marble holding

Make the Fan Blade

Make The Fan Blade

Using a Glass/metal type pencil Draw from corner to corner to find the center of the 10 by 10 aluminum
Poke hole in the center of X
Place compass on the center point draw around a 10 inch circle
find and mark points every 45 degrees and draw lines
create a 2 inch circle in the center
using awl, make marks where the 45 degrees cross the 2 inch circle
Cut out the 10 inch circle
File outer edge then deburr
Drill holes using 3/16 drill bit
Drill center with 3/16 drill bit
Make blades - cut the lines from the outside and stop at each hole
With disc laying flat, bend each blade ONE SIDE ONLY to 45 degrees
use 45 degree gauge
Clean off metal pencil marks
towels paper
ISP Isopropyl Alcohol

I really like making a fan blade - it was very rewarding

Assembly

This does not really have a wrong or right way to put together since it is so adjustable.

Down bar/shaft into base
I do recommend to put the 7/16 rod down shaft in the base (7/16 inch OD steel rod for down rod 48 inches)
It was a friction fit - no glue
Cross Bars to downward shaft
About 30 inches apart put 2X - 3/8 and 7/16 outside diameters adjustable swivel rod holders CLAMPS
on down rod/shaft
Put 3/8 inch OD steel rod for cross rods 2X to 12 inch lengths
In each clamps
the direction should be opposite of the base
Cross Bars to downward Rotating shaft
Put on the opposite end of the 3/8 rods 2X - 3/8 and 1/4 outside diameters adjustable swivel rod holders CLAMPS - one on each cross bar
Put the 1/4 inch OD with 3/16 ID steel tube - used automotive brake line need 1 inch each
in each clamp
Rotating shaft Lower half
#10 - 24 thread rod - 36 inches
Install fan
Put Upper Nut #10 - 24 threaded
Washer 3/16 inner diameter
FAN BLADE WITH BLADES POINTING DOWN (CUP OF BLADES WILL FACE DOWN)
Washer 3/16 inner diameter
Put Lower Nut #10 - 24 threaded
Tighten upper and lower nut to pinch fan blade
Put second lower Nut #10 - 24 threaded This is the jam nut to secure fan blade and so it does not twist off in rotational motion
Install thread rod up the lower clamp
install thread rod up the upper clamp
Rotating shaft Upper half
On the upper part of #10 - 24 thread rod - 36 inches - above the upper clamp
Put 2X washer 3/16 inner diameter
Put 1X Nut #10 - 24 thread down
Put #10 - 24 thread rod connector ONLY THREAD TO HALF OF THE CONNECTOR - THE OTHER HALF MUST RECIEVE THE THREADED DOOR HANDLE
tighten nut to the rod connector - jam nut

Light oil the contact points of the rotating shaft especially at the top clamp point of two washers.

This should not be a pinch between the upper and lower points of the rotating threaded rod.

Place candle holder on top of the connector the put the door handle threaded rod thru hole and tighten

Adjustments

Light oil the contact points of the rotating shaft especially at the top clamp point of two washers.

There should not be a pinch between the upper and lower points of the rotating threaded rod.
a modest gap between the lower clamp and the fan - should be present

PLEASE NOTE THIS IS A FRICTION SHAFT (NO BEARINGS) SO SOME PLAY IS GOOD

USING A LEVEL CHECK THAT THE TREAD ROD IS STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN

ADJUSTMENTS TO ALL THE CLAMPS WILL NEED TO BE DONE.

I FOUND THAT HAND SPINNING THE THREADED ROD TO OBTAIN THE SMOOTHES ROTATION.

WHEN YOU FIND THE SWEET SPOT THE FAN WILL SPIN FREELY AND COME TO A GRADUAL STOP.

2X - 3/8 and 1/4 outside diameters adjustable swivel rod holders CLAMPS
2X - 3/8 and 7/16 outside diameters adjustable swivel rod holders CLAMPS

Also note why I put adjustable feet on the bottom, balance is important, so you might need to move the feet to be level and so the base does not rock on the floor.

I USE THE DOWNWARD 7/16 STEEL ROD TO MOVE AND NEVER THE TREADED ROD.

MOVE SO THE FAN IS OVER THE FLOOR REGESTER.