Aesthetic Floor Lamp

by Tesalex in Living > Decorating

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Aesthetic Floor Lamp

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Hi! Today we will be building this beautiful corner lamp that can be used in any room to get an awesome ambience. It has multiple modes and multiple animations. It adds aesthetic to the room and looks very soothing too. The best part of this lamp is anyone can make this. You don’t have to be tech savvy, good at programming or even good at using a computer, because we won’t be using one. As an added bonus, not even soldering is required. The only thing that is needed is assembling a few parts which I think anyone can do.

This lamp is inspired by a product I saw online. It caught my eye at one glance, and I knew I had to make this. Also, it is being sold at around ₹6000 but I will show you how this can be built in less than half of that amount and get the same functionality. And of course, there’s this feeling of building something on your own.

Alright, so now that I have convinced you to build this lamp, let’s get into the details.

Supplies

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The brain of this lamp is SP108E LED controller. It is very easy to get and easy to use. It is targeted to be used on addressable LEDs which are also not hard to get a hold of. I went with WS2812B. Although if you are buying, do not buy less than 60 LEDs/m version as that won’t be enough LEDs to make our lamp look good. The number of LEDs depend on the height of lamp you are building. For reference, I am using 60 LEDs/m, and height of lamp is 5ft, so I needed 92 LEDs, around one and a half meter. To power all this we will need a 5V power supply, current rating of which again depends on the number of LEDs used. The thumb rule to calculate the current rating is by multiplying no. of leds with 60mA and buying the power supply with more than half of that current rating. I used 3A one for 92 LEDs.

To build the frame we will use a rectangular hollow Aluminium block which is very light and very easy to work with and also it fits the led controller very well. It can easily be bought at any hardware store. Some right-angled brackets and screws are required to hold the frames. We will be using a similar size wood block to add weight to the frame and also the screws get tighten on these blocks only.

The last thing we need are these Aluminium profiles which helps in mounting and dissolving of the LEDs with its included dissolver. Links to all the parts is below:

IN:

SP108E - https://amzn.to/3NTxVHY

WS2812B - https://amzn.to/3wTJuJ4

Profile light channel - https://amzn.to/3iYmh0g

Option 2 - https://amzn.to/3NIFFMM

Bracket with screws - https://amzn.to/3iVBBuo

Smaller brackets for stability - https://amzn.to/3iYEhY9

Power supply - https://amzn.to/3Dyb27U


US:

SP108E - https://amzn.to/3uHOEVO

WS2812B - https://amzn.to/3K2HQZb

Profile light channel - https://amzn.to/3LzmpPU

Bracket with screws - https://amzn.to/3NDTts1

Smaller brackets for stability - https://amzn.to/3uLPZuR

Power supply - https://amzn.to/3tXwGPT


UK:

SP108E Led Controller - https://amzn.to/3j0Fezo

WS2812B - https://amzn.to/3NFKNkP

Profile light channel - https://amzn.to/3v93rJx

Bracket with screws - https://amzn.to/3uOnxIK

Smaller brackets for stability - https://amzn.to/35yP48v

Power supply - https://amzn.to/3wZtgOz


Original lamp product page: https://www.smokeycocktail.in/collections/lights-lamps/products/vibrant-corner-lamp

Watch the Video!

Aesthetic Floor Lamp || DIY || SP108E || WS2812B

Please watch this YouTube video to get a better understanding of the project. More details are in the steps below.

The LED Controller

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Let’s first make sure our controller works. I connected the led strip to the controller using a screwdriver. Connection is straight forward, WS2812B doesn’t have any clock pin, so that remains unconnected. In the first power on it is possible that your LED strip don’t light up and it’s ok. Now make sure the LED in the controller is blue, if it is green, it is in STA mode.to change it, press the AP/STA button on the controller. Now that our LED is blue, we are in Access Point mode in which we can connect to the Led controller’s Wi-Fi and control the LEDs. The default password is 12345678. All this detail can be found in the user manual, link to which is provided in the description. Ideally it should work out of the box, but if it doesn’t, I am providing some links for troubleshooting as well.

User manual - https://www.ledbe.com/image/catalog/Sperll/sp108e-instructions.pdf

Troubleshooting guide - https://github.com/Spled/spled.github.io/issues/2

Building the Frame

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I already had the Aluminium block cut in sizes of 1ft, 2ft and 5ft. After that I started cutting 3 wood blocks of size around 8 inches. Then I kept the two smaller ones at right angle to each other and marked some holes to attach them using right angled brackets. They will act as the base of our lamp. Then I inserted the wooden blocks inside and started drilling with a drill bit smaller than the screws I am going to use. Once all the 4 holes were drilled, I started screwing the brackets and made them one solid piece. Make sure the screws are all the way through and has gripped the wooden block thoroughly, otherwise the Aluminium blocks might not work as one.

I followed the same procedure to attach one bracket at the bottom-center of the 5ft Aluminium block. I then kept it at a 45 degrees angle on top of the base we just made and made two markings for attaching the bracket to it. We are keeping it at 45 degrees so as to make the light really fall on the on the corner of the room and not just on any one wall.

I laid down the longer block, got one more wooden piece and inserted it from the top. After that I pushed it inside with the led controller. This wooden piece will act as a settling place for the led controller so that it doesn’t just hang with the wires but has a settling place instead. Once the led controller was completely settled, I extracted it, made a rough guess where the wooden block is and drilled and fixed it.

Finally, I got a matte black spray paint and painted all over the lamp. I later figured out I did not do a very good job. I should have made sure that the gravity cannot pull the paint down before letting it dry. So, if you’re planning on making this, keep this in mind. But this will work for me, so let’s move ahead.

Now we will prepare the LED profile. I cut a piece of the profile, 5ft in length, and started looking for a proper position to stick the strip. I decided to stick the strip on any one corner and not in the center so that I have space to make holes for screws which will be used to attach it to the lamp frame. I made three holes on the roughly on the top, middle and bottom of the profile, making sure there is enough space for the led strip. You can also do this after sticking the strip to the profile. I made corresponding holes to the profile in the Aluminium block making sure that the strip will be in the center of the Aluminium block after attaching the profile to it, and there is no wood block this time to hold the screws. After this I finally stick the strip to the profile and don’t worry as neither the back of strip nor the profile is conductive, so basically there will be no shorts. One important thing to note here is to make sure the no. of leds is even in number if you are planning to use the segment feature of the controller. I counted the LEDs and did a quick test; everything is working fine.

I attached the finished profile to the Aluminum block using screws. It's time to put the dissolver on top of the profile. Just a hiccup here, nothing a good old scissor can’t deal with, and we are done with the mechanical build.

Finishing Up

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I connected the strip to the controller and put the controller in its designated spot making sure the power connector is at the top. I applied the power, and it works beautifully.

I changed the wire that connects strip to the controller as previous wire was thin and was getting hot very quickly. Make sure you use a good quality wire to efficiently transmit power. Also, to make the frame more stable I added two brackets in the base as well. I couldn’t get two smaller brackets so I used bigger one, but I will replace it in the future and color it black, as it is not looking good.

That was all for this one. Now if you have prior experience with microcontrollers and want to make this build more budget friendly, I am working on a project just for you. So, make sure to subscribe and keep looking for my next Instructable. It’s going to be awesome!

If you enjoyed this project, make sure to like and share. Alright then, till next time.