Adjustable Strap Messenger Bag With Upcycled Denim

This is a medium sized sturdy messenger bag with an adjustable strap that uses a mix of upcycled jeans and accent fabric. The finished bag is about 10 1/2" tall by 11 1/2" wide and 3" deep.

The bag is a hybrid of two different tutorials I liked but didn't quite suit me as was. One I had trouble with the order of information and couldn't find the right elements, the other I really liked but realized the creator was a lot smaller, shorter, and less busty. Her adjustable shoulder to crossbody strap was not mine! It was also little too small to fit all the things I wanted while walking in the woods. So I mixed up the two and swapped to heavier weight fabrics to better cope with lugging a good size camera and water bottle.

The original tutorials:

https://pinoyinoz.blogspot.com/2008/07/tutorial-messenger-bag-with-zip-top.html

https://notimetosew.wordpress.com/2011/12/05/messenger-bag-tutorial/

• sewing machine and denim weight sewing needle
• fabric scissors
• (rotary mat and cutter is optional but super helpful)
• pins
• a pair or two of jeans ready for dissection (or about 2/3 yard mid-heavy weight main fabric)
• 1/2 yard mid-heavy weight accent fabric
• coordinating thread
• 1 yard cotton muslin or quilting fabric (add at least 1/2 yard if you choose something directional)
• heavy weight fusible interfacing, about 1 yard (I used pellon 808 and 809)
• small fleece scraps
• two 1 1/2" rectangular rings, or two 1 1/2" D rings (I got my rectangular rings on ebay, my local craft stores only carry D rings)
• one 1 1/2" slider
• 1 1/2" webbing material for the shoulder/crossbody strap (I'm 5' 10" and needed just under 2 yards)
• one set 3/4" magnetic snap
• 7" zipper

From the jeans cut:

• two pieces 11" high by 12" wide for the front and back
• one piece 14" high by 12" wide for front pocket
• two pieces 4" long by 3 1/2" wide for shoulder strap attach points

From the accent fabric, cut:

• one piece 11" high by 12" wide (for the flap)
• one piece 34" long by 3 1/2" wide (for the gusset)

From the lining fabric, cut:

• three pieces 11" high by 12" wide
• one piece 34" long by 3 1/2" wide
• one piece 8" long 3 1/5" wide for the gusset pocket
• one 10" by 16 inch rectangle for the interior zipper pocket
• one piece 14" long x 10" wide for the large inside patch pocket
• one piece 7 1/2" long x 4 1/4" wide for short add on patch pocket
• one piece 10" long x 3 1/2" wide for long add on patch pocket

(Assume all of these should be ironed first. It's also probably fair to assume I avoided that where possible!)

For the outside front, fold the 14x12 piece in half width-wise, wrong sides together. Topstitch 1/4" from the folded edge. This will be the pocket.

Put fusible interfacing on the back of the front piece.

Line the bottom edge of the pocket and the front piece up (I put the leg seam of the pocket facing inward so it won't be visible), and baste along the bottom and sides.

Use a cup to trace a curve along the bottom corners and cut. (On light fabrics I use a pen, and on dark a white chalk pencil)

Stitch down the center of the front pocket to divide it into two.

Measure 6 3/4" down from the top center and mark. Attach the back of the magnetic snap right below this spot.

Hold the snap washer where you want to put the snap. Mark through the two holes so you have it lined up. Carefully snip these open with sharp scissors. Also mark and snip on a 2" square scrap of fleece. 

Put the back half of the snap with the prongs though the fabric and the fleece. Put the washer on. Bend the prongs out from the washer. 

If you have pliers, they can be really handy here. Even a dull butter knife can be helpful pushing it flat without hurting your fingers.

Iron an extra strip of fusible interfacing over the washer/fleece/fabric sandwich.

I prefer to patch the back together to include a pocket salvaged from the jeans and then add a piece of interfacing to the whole thing once I get to 11"x 12". It's not faster, I just like the look! Plus the tiny pocket is good for eye drops and lip balm.

Deconstructing the waistband and leg seam gets a little more fabric to work with. Carefully use a seam ripper to separate this piece from both, and remove the belt loop too.

If you want to make a deeper pocket, cut the bottom of the pocket lining straight. Then sew scraps of cotton fabric on both flaps of the dismembered pocket. Sew around the outside to close it back up.

Sew lengths of denim from trimming the front pieces to get this one to 11" x 12"

If you prefer, you can also follow the same instructions as the front if you want a symmetrical pocket. It uses more fabric but takes less time!

Again, trace a curve on the bottom edges and trim after you've added the interfacing.

You'll need the 11"x12" accent rectangle and one of the 11"x12" lining rectangles. Put fusible interfacing on the back of both pieces.

Measure 1 1/4" up from the bottom center of the lining piece. Mark and put the front half of the magnetic snap above this spot. Do the same with the fleece and extra interfacing. (You don't really notice the thickness but it makes it sturdier.)

Pin the two pieces right sides together. Mark the curve and trim.

Now stitch the flap with a 1/4" seam allowance.

Clip notches out of the curves, turn right side out. Press and top-stitch 1/4" from edge.

(If you're stitching with the protruding snap bit down, lift it slightly so it doesn't catch on the sewing machine and through your top stitches out of whack...)

Add a 3 1/4" strip of iron on interfacing to the 3 1/2" strip of accent fabric.

Pin that length of accent fabric around one panel, right sides together. Line up one side even with the top, then pin along carefully. Go slowly around the curves and use lots of pins.

Sew with 1/4" seam. Again, go slowly around the curves! Unpin and make sure you're pleased with how the curves turned out. Once you are, trim the extra fabric and clip the curves. Stitch on the other panel.

Baste the flap to the back of the bag, right sides together.

Sew one side of the two 3 1/2"x4" small rectangles of your main fabric on the long side. Turn right side out and press so that the seam is in the middle of one side.

Slide on a rectangular or D ring and fold in half lengthwise, hiding the seam. Sew under the ring to secure.

I do a kind of N that turns into an X with two straight lines on either side. It starts as a straight line, then a diagonal, then a straight line, then a diagonal going up to meet the first straight line.

Sewing a box and putting an X in the middle is fine too. You just want it secured in multiple directions.

Tack one onto the middle of the gusset on the left side of the bag.

Loop one end of the shoulder strap around the center of the slider. Sew the loop with an X pattern.

One that's secure, bring the free end of the strap through the left D ring anchor and back out and through the slider again, going over the secured end.

And time to try it on. Make sure it hangs comfortably at it's most extended length. Test the length by sliding the end of the strapping though the other D ring and pinning both the anchor and strap in place.

Once it works, sew the end of the strap in a loop around the D ring and then tack the other strap anchor onto the bag.

Take the remaining two 11"x12" pieces of lining fabric, use the cup to mark the curve and trim.

Fold the patch pocket pieces in half then sew around the three sides with a 1/4" seam, leaving a 1" gap to turn them right side out. (I use two red pins in a row to remind me to stop.)

The smaller patch pocket dimensions are my usual go to sizes: one taller one for pens and one smaller/shorter for painkillers.

Once they're right side out, press.

Arrange the smaller patch pockets on the large one and sew them on. Use slightly under 1/4" from the edge of the pockets, that way you catch the seam and make them a little sturdier.

Once your pockets are attached to the large patch pocket, sew it onto one of the lining pieces about 2" from the top of the lining piece. Use the same just under a 1/4" seam here and make one large pocket. (You can also sew a line down the middle to divide it into two pockets.) 

For the gusset pocket you just need to sew the bottom. You'll have a wide tube. Flatten it with your fingers so the seam is open and just above the bottom. That way you can turn it around and the seam won't be visible at all. Press. 

Pin to one side of the lining gusset fabric with the top about 2" from the top of the fabric. You just need to sew a line 1/4" from the bottom of the pocket. The sides will be taken care of when we assemble the lining.

(It's not as bad as it sounds. It scared me too.)

Draw a centered rectangle on the wrong side of the pocket piece 1" down from the top. It should be a 1/2" wide and 7 1/4" long.

Center this piece right sides together with the lining piece, 1 1/4" from the top. Pin.

Sew along the box you drew using very small stitches. I used 12 stitches per inch for the long sides and 15 stitches per inch for the short sides and going around the corners.

Carefully fold the piece down the middle, lining up the box you sewed. Snip the center to open it a little. Cut along the center of the rectangle until you're about 1/4" from the ends. Then snip a V shape to open up the corners.

Pull the pocket piece through the lining piece to turn the pieces right side out. Finger press to try to get it as even as possible, it may help to pin all along the opening. Press.

Pin the zipper centered behind the opening you made.

Top stitch about 1/8" around the opening to hold the zipper in place. I'd suggest some vertical and some horizontal pins. You can sew right over the vertical, but they don't hold the zipper tape nearly as well as the horizontal ones.

I don't have a zipper foot, so I just stitched as close as I could and would stop with the machine needle down to move the zipper out of the way when needed.

Fold the bottom of the pocket flap and line it with the top, sew along the three sides, being careful not to accidentally catch the lining fabric as you go. I tend to overfill pockets, so did back-stitching at the corners and used 12 stitches per inch for this bit.

Move the lining fabric back so it's removed from the pocket lining seams as much as possible so you don't catch it by mistake.

Pin the 3 1/2" length of lining fabric around one panel. Line the side with the gusset pocket even with the top, then pin along carefully, go slowly around the curves and use lots of pins.

Sew with 3/8" seam. Again, go slowly around the curves! Unpin and make sure you're pleased with how the curves turned out.

For the second panel pin the gusset on, again, use a lot of pins to help control the curves. Once it's even, remove about 6" worth of pins from the bottom center. This is the gap that the whole bag will eventually be pulled through to turn it right side out. I usually double mark the stopping point with two red pins so I don't blow past them.

Sew from the top down the side, around the curve, to the stopping point. Back-stitch about a half inch. Start from the top at the other side and do the same thing.

It's going to look weird! The outside of the bag will be right side out, and the lining will be wrong side out. Put the outside inside the lining. It may take a little squishing since the lining is a hair smaller. Pin at the seams first to make sure they line up, then at the strap attachments, then the rest. Err on the side of a lot of pins, you don't want it slipping.

Sew around the top with a 3/8" seam allowance.

Carefully turn the bag right side out by pulling the outside of the bag through the hole you left in the lining.

Press, pin the top edge flat, and top-stitch 1/4" down from the top.

Sew the lining hole closed with a ladder stitch.

Time to pack it up and explore!

-On denim direction: generally it doesn't matter, however you need to patch it to make the right size is fine for the front and back body. It can matter a little more for the front pocket and the shoulder strap attachments. If you're using jeans with some stretch try to keep the stretchier direction horizontal for the large pocket and the shoulder strap anchors. That will allow the pockets some give and keep the strap attachments sturdy while making them easier to turn right side out.

-On my fabrics: For the example I used spoonflower twill in the design blue feet booby by Arty Peaches, who was sweet enough to change the background color to a more neutral one I thought my mom would like. For my other shown trial runs I used birch organics barkcloth Wrented, and spoonflower twill moth ball in slate grey by Rachel Quinlan. Downside of spoonflower is that you need to buy a yard since they don't do half yards, plus side is the way they print the fabric you can get more bags per yard if you're thinking gifts. And there's so many wonderful artists on there.

-On lining fabric: I opted for something plain and non directional so I didn't have to worry about right side up at all. If you want to go with a cute pattern, go for it. Dark fabrics can make it a pain to find things in a bag, I'd say stick with medium through light colors.

If you have lightweight cargo pants that also died, you can use them for lining and avoid the pocket making. I've found wrangler ripstop cargo pants not only do not stop rips, they shred. So I wouldn't use them for the outer body no matter how perfect the color, but they have potential for future linings!

-On cutting: If you don't have a rotary cutter and mat, you may want to tape two sheets of standard paper together to make a template complete with the curved edges rather than measure each time since you'll be making six 11"x 12" rectangles with curved bottom edges.

-On top-stitching thread colors: Keep in mind you're going to be top-stitching the base, accent, and lining fabric. I will say that if you're not the neatest at top-stitching, doing three colors and as low a contrast as possible is best. Every crooked stitch and slightly skewed line really stands out in my moth bag with the tan.

-On stitch length: I generally use 7 stitches per inch for top stitching the heavier fabrics or the whole bag at the end. For load bearing places I go 8 or 9 stitches per inch. And I'd say 9 for any of the lining elements, except for the pocket and zipper where I suggest going higher in the instructions.

-On strap length: if you already have a bag that's a good length for crossbody, measure it to get an idea what works for you.

-On strapping material: If you're using synthetic strapping material I'd suggest using a candle to melt the very end of the strapping webbing to keep it from fraying. You can usually tell if this will work by noting if the original end looked slightly melted when you purchased it. I prefer cotton or cotton blend when available, the texture is nicer and seems more comfortable, but I couldn't find it in any shades of dark blue (!?!) which I preferred for this project.

-On pockets: No rules. What do you tend to stick in your pockets? You can skip any or all of these or change them up. I bring my camera for bird photos and did that gusset pocket to have a fast 'stick my fingers in and grab the replacement battery' pocket. I also need to have my migraine medication available in a pinch, so made that teeny patch pocket just for them.

And a pocket modification- instead of a large patch pocket you can increase the width of the large patch pocket piece to 12" wide and just sew it right into the seams of the lining back if you prefer. It doesn't give that much extra space, but does save you a little extra stitching.

-I started added a key clip to my bags once I found ones that I liked. To do this use a scrap of the lining fabric 4" long by 1 1/2" wide and sew it into a narrow tube. Turn it right side out, finger press. Slip on key clip or carabiner clip. Fold it in half and pin it to the lining seam so it hangs where ever you want your keys. I usually put it over the open pocket so they'll go in there rather than dangle loose in my bag.