Adjustable Book Rack

by danny.zawacki in Workshop > Woodworking

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Adjustable Book Rack

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Are you like me and you want to keep a select few cookbooks at arms reach so you can quickly grab them when needed, but you do not need your entire cookbook collection at the ready? Do you also need a good way to hold those cookbooks so that you are not always propping them back up? Finally, do you want to change your mind on how many cookbooks there are and ultimately change the space those cookbooks take up? If so, then this project is perfect for you!

This really is a simple woodworking project, great for a beginner. It would be easy to knock this project out in an afternoon and it only requires a few basic tools to complete.

Please note: This project would should not be limited to cookbooks only!

Supplies

Materials Needed:

  • 2 - 1x6x8 in. hardwood boards (End boards)
  • 1 - 1x6x5 in. hardwood boards (Sliding Support board)
  • 6 - 3/8x16 in. dowel rods
  • Glue

Tools Needed:

  • Saw
  • Drill
  • Router (optional)

Cut & Shape Boards

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BookRackEndBoards.jpg

Using a saw, and really any kind of saw will work for this including a handsaw, table saw, circular saw, or chop saw, trim each board to its correct length. The dimensions are in the attached photos, or up in the Materials List. While not entirely necessary, you can chop off the front corner of the boards for added pizazz.

Once the boards are cut to their final size, you can route a profile on all of the boards. I chose to add a slight chamfer to the edges to help soften all the edges. Plus, I think it looks better. However, this step is completely optional.

Drill Holes

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Next, you will want to layout where to drill the holes on one of the Ends. The positioning isn't exactly important, however, for the bottom row I chose to place them 3/4 in. up from the bottom. The outside holes were drilled 1 in. from the front or back, and then the inside holes were two inches in from each of the outside holes. The back holes are drilled 3/4 in. from the back, and 1 in. from the top and then 3 in. from the top.

The next step is to clamp all of your boards together, or tape them if you do not have clamps. Make sure the End boards are held together, and the Sliding Support is on the bottom of the stack and should be positioned so that the bottom-middle two holes go through it. Your top board should have your layout for the holes to drill. Now, as straight as you can (use a drill press if you have one) drill 3/8 in. holes to fit the dowels.

Adjust Sliding Support Holes

To make the Sliding Support easier to slide, you will want to widen the holes in it ever so slightly. For me, I kept sizing up my drill bit and testing with my dowels until it slid smoothly over the dowels, but it still had some resistance. This is where the magic of this book rack comes from. The Sliding Support can be moved, but only when there is no tension on it. As a result, it holds books upright, and adjusts to the amount of books you have in it.

Cut Dowels

This next step is easy, cut all of your dowels to a consistent length.

The measurements above specify 16 in. lengths, but really you can make this any length. Keep in mind, the longer you make them, the more chance there is that the dowels will start to sag under the weight of the books.

Glue Up

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Another easy step, and we're just about finished!

Place a dab of glue in the holes of one of the End pieces and tap a dowel in each hole. Next, slide the Sliding Support onto the center two dowels. Finally, repeat the gluing process with the other End piece.

Follow the glue's recommended drying time.

Apply Finish

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While not necessary, I recommend applying some finish to your book rack before you put it into commission. Once it's loaded with books and holding them upright, you won't want to take it apart to add finish.

Since the tolerance on the Sliding Support can vary, your best bet it to not use a film finish like polyurethane. Instead, apply an oil finish that will seep into the wood.