Adapt a Bra for Nursing

A lot of women struggle to find "the best nursing bra", and what I tell friends is to start with a bra you love and adapt it for nursing. It sounds intimidating to a lot of people, especially if you have a screaming infant and no time to learn a new skill. This project requires only beginner-level sewing skills, and I'll show you how to get a clean, professional result!

What bra should I start with?

I am not a doctor, so this is not medical advice -- but a well-fitting bra, with an underwire and/or band that sits in the appropriate place on your anatomy and not on top of breast tissue, is imperative to help avoid plugged ducts and infection. You can read more about an appropriate bra for breastfeeding mothers from a legitimate authority like La Leche League or KellyMom's recommended resources.

Materials:

• 1 well-fitting bra
• 1 pair of nursing bra clasps (1 pair = 4 pieces; 2 upper clasps & 2 lower clasps)
• ~20" elastic (your exact length will vary, see Step 3)
• Thread

Note: You'll accomplish the most professional-looking results if your notions match your bra's colorway.

Tools:

• Scissors
• Ballpoint pins or fabric clips
• Stretch or ballpoint needle, machine or hand-sewing
• Sewing machine fitted with zipper presser foot (recommended, a regular presser foot will also work)
• Marking pen, marker, or chalk (optional)
• Seam ripper (optional)
• Seam gauge (optional)
• Measuring tape (optional)

Note: My photos utilize all of the optional tools listed.

The trickiest parts of this project are: (1) making sure each clip is sewn into the correct spot, in the proper direction; (2) if machine-sewing, going slowly to avoid a rat's nest of thread.

It helps to take your time and go through the first strap step-by-step as detailed below. After you've taken your time with the first one, the second one will go much faster!

We're going to start by swapping out the existing hardware between the shoulder strap and the bra cup with the nursing clasp. If your bra doesn't have hardware, you'll simply use scissors to separate the strap from the cup and attach the nursing clasp using the same process.

Measure a 1" allowance and fold the fabric over your clasp, pinning or clipping in place. Fasten the clasp to ensure all the clasp pieces are facing the right direction - this will save you from extra seam ripping!

Sew on your machine or by hand, using either a short, straight stitch, or a narrow zig-zag. A narrow zig-zag will give your seam more stretch, but might be harder to stitch depending on how thick your fabric is.

This can be done with a standard presser foot, or you can use a zipper or cording foot to stitch right up next to the clasp, and then add a second row of stitching at the end of the allowance to tack down the extra fabric.

Try on your bra after attaching 1 clasp to make sure everything looks good so far.

Also at this time, measure from the bottom of the clasp to the bottom of your bra cup. This measurement + 1" will be the length of elastic to cut for the retaining strap. TIP: write this measurement down, so you don't forget!

The retaining strap will sit behind the bra cup and ensure your shoulder strap doesn't fall behind you while the nursing clasp is in-use.

Measure a 1" allowance on the end of your elastic, and thread the elastic through the bottom of the shoulder nursing clasp, pinning or clipping in place. Affix the other end to the base of the bra cup where you chose in the prior step while measuring. TIP: make sure the elastic is not twisted before stitching!

Sew in place as you did previously.

Repeat the process all over again for the other side of the bra. Double-check that the clasps are facing the right way and that the elastic isn't twisted while doing your assembly.

That's it! Now you can easily convert all of your favorite bras into your favorite nursing bras!