ATmega328P Corgi Arduino
![IMG_4387.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FW2/MFCA/KMOVX5YT/FW2MFCAKMOVX5YT.jpg&filename=IMG_4387.jpg)
The Corgi Arduino with the 328P, also known as the Corginator 9000, is a low cost design with a classic and easy-to-use chipset.
It has easy-solder components such as TQFP32, SOIC16, and 0603 components.
It features an onboard USB-serial converter, Nano Pinout(with VIN support), ICSP header, and a 16MHz clock.
Designed by myself and CrazyBlackStone.
Supplies
Corginator PCB
0603 LEDs- 4
10K resistors 0603- 1
1K resistors 0603 - 6
100nF 0603 - 4
4.7uF 0603- 1
22pF 0603- 2
16MHz crystal- 1
ATMega328P TQFP-1
CH340C-1
Button(Tactile)- 1
AMS1117- 1
SS12F- 1
USB-B Socket-1
1x15 headers 2.54mm- 2
2x3 Headers 2.54mm- 1
Schematic: Setting Up USB
![Screen Shot 2021-03-25 at 11.15.46 AM.png](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FZ2/LXTY/KMOVX60G/FZ2LXTYKMOVX60G.png&filename=Screen Shot 2021-03-25 at 11.15.46 AM.png)
This section of the schematic is simple: USB, diodes, and mappings.
This is the USB-B socket, 5V power(with diode prot), and the data connections to the conversion chip.
USB to Serial
![Screen Shot 2021-03-25 at 11.15.39 AM.png](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FVZ/FA2I/KMOVX60I/FVZFA2IKMOVX60I.png&filename=Screen Shot 2021-03-25 at 11.15.39 AM.png)
The corginator is meant as an entry development board, which makes a lack of onboard USB a poor choice for the board.
Thus, a low-cost CH340 is used.
The CH340C is extremely simplistic to use. It requires only two 1K resistors on RX and TX, and 2 100nF decoupling capacitors on 3.3V and DTR.
There are also RX + TX LEDs attached.
In addition the CH340C itself provides 3.3v output.
VIN Voltage Regulator
![Screen Shot 2021-03-25 at 11.15.43 AM.png](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/F3S/5TTB/KMOVX60H/F3S5TTBKMOVX60H.png&filename=Screen Shot 2021-03-25 at 11.15.43 AM.png)
An AMS1117 is used for 7-12V input down to 5V. It's quite low cost.
The circuit is rather simple. Input power and output decoupling.
ATmega328P Pinout
![Screen Shot 2021-03-25 at 11.15.34 AM.png](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FZ8/8R5O/KMOVX60J/FZ88R5OKMOVX60J.png&filename=Screen Shot 2021-03-25 at 11.15.34 AM.png)
This is just assigning pins to all the pins on the chipset.
![Screen Shot 2021-03-25 at 11.20.51 AM.png](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FSZ/9NKE/KMOVX60F/FSZ9NKEKMOVX60F.png&filename=Screen Shot 2021-03-25 at 11.20.51 AM.png)
Lastly, this is assigning the Nano Pinout and ICSP header.
Routing the PCB
![Screen Shot 2021-03-25 at 4.03.22 PM.png](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/F0Y/76GZ/KMP5BT49/F0Y76GZKMP5BT49.png&filename=Screen Shot 2021-03-25 at 4.03.22 PM.png)
Now the schematic is done, we shall make the PCB!
This is how it was routed.
Fabricating PCBs and Assembling the Board
![IMG_4387.jpg](/proxy/?url=https://content.instructables.com/FMY/WXPJ/KMP5BT8J/FMYWXPJKMP5BT8J.jpg&filename=IMG_4387.jpg)
I had the PCBs made with a white soldermask and black silkscreen. HASL finish.
I sourced the components(listed earlier), and soldered the components on. My iron isn't particularly good and I managed to solder most on without difficulty. However, some parts were harder and lead to faulty connections.
In addition, the first variant lacked the 100nF capacitor and I was forced to "boodge-wire" the capacitor.