ATmega328P Corgi Arduino

by hugoyhu in Circuits > Soldering

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ATmega328P Corgi Arduino

IMG_4387.jpg

The Corgi Arduino with the 328P, also known as the Corginator 9000, is a low cost design with a classic and easy-to-use chipset.

It has easy-solder components such as TQFP32, SOIC16, and 0603 components.

It features an onboard USB-serial converter, Nano Pinout(with VIN support), ICSP header, and a 16MHz clock.

Designed by myself and CrazyBlackStone.

Supplies

Corginator PCB

0603 LEDs- 4

10K resistors 0603- 1

1K resistors 0603 - 6

100nF 0603 - 4

4.7uF 0603- 1

22pF 0603- 2

16MHz crystal- 1

ATMega328P TQFP-1

CH340C-1

Button(Tactile)- 1

AMS1117- 1

SS12F- 1

USB-B Socket-1

1x15 headers 2.54mm- 2

2x3 Headers 2.54mm- 1

Schematic: Setting Up USB

Screen Shot 2021-03-25 at 11.15.46 AM.png

This section of the schematic is simple: USB, diodes, and mappings.

This is the USB-B socket, 5V power(with diode prot), and the data connections to the conversion chip.

USB to Serial

Screen Shot 2021-03-25 at 11.15.39 AM.png

The corginator is meant as an entry development board, which makes a lack of onboard USB a poor choice for the board.

Thus, a low-cost CH340 is used.

The CH340C is extremely simplistic to use. It requires only two 1K resistors on RX and TX, and 2 100nF decoupling capacitors on 3.3V and DTR.

There are also RX + TX LEDs attached.

In addition the CH340C itself provides 3.3v output.

VIN Voltage Regulator

Screen Shot 2021-03-25 at 11.15.43 AM.png

An AMS1117 is used for 7-12V input down to 5V. It's quite low cost.

The circuit is rather simple. Input power and output decoupling.

ATmega328P Pinout

Screen Shot 2021-03-25 at 11.15.34 AM.png

This is just assigning pins to all the pins on the chipset.

Screen Shot 2021-03-25 at 11.20.51 AM.png

Lastly, this is assigning the Nano Pinout and ICSP header.

Routing the PCB

Screen Shot 2021-03-25 at 4.03.22 PM.png

Now the schematic is done, we shall make the PCB!

This is how it was routed.

Fabricating PCBs and Assembling the Board

IMG_4387.jpg

I had the PCBs made with a white soldermask and black silkscreen. HASL finish.

I sourced the components(listed earlier), and soldered the components on. My iron isn't particularly good and I managed to solder most on without difficulty. However, some parts were harder and lead to faulty connections.

In addition, the first variant lacked the 100nF capacitor and I was forced to "boodge-wire" the capacitor.