AA Batteries Holders That Aren't Boring V2. With Switch and Power Hub.

Hello! Looking for a customizable and practical AA battery holder for your DIY electronics projects? This is an updated design for 2, 3, and 4 AA batteries: https://www.instructables.com/AA-Battery-Holder/

This version solves common issues like limited power ports and messy wiring. With integrated switches, power hubs, and mounting options, these battery holders are perfect for powering multiple devices while keeping your setup organized.

The modifications:

The battery compartments have been enlarged, the separators between the batteries have been slightly thickened to make them more durable, and holes have been added to secure the battery holders to both the base and the lid, allowing you to hold other items you might need.

What's New:

One of the most common problems is that development boards have power ports for no more than 2 or 3 devices, using expansion or breadboard plates take up more space in our projects. The solution I found is the inclusion of a switch and connector pins on one of the side covers to power various boards or devices, avoiding overloading our development board. Two versions: pins facing up or down.

No supports required for 3D printing!

1. 3D printer (or 3D printing service)
2. PLA filament
3. Pliers
4. Fine steel wool or sandpaper; I used an inexpensive nail file
5. Brass paper clips
6. Soldering iron
7. 5 double male pins connectors for x2 AA
8. 6 double male pins connectors for x4 AA
9. 11 double male pins connectors for x4 AA
10. Double female headers (optional)
11. Switch
12. Screwdriver or similar tool
13. Vinyl tape

The design includes battery holders for 2, 3, and 4 AA batteries.

Each model includes: - 2 lid options:

- A simple lid.

- A lid with mounting holes. - 3 side covers:

- One with a switch and upward-facing pins.

- One with downward-facing pins.

- One simple cover.

Photos references:

1- Model with a simple lid.

2- Model with a lid with holes.

3- Parts:

a. Simple side lid. (PP-AAx2_side_lid.stl)

b. Side lid with switch or pins holder. (PP-AAx2_side_lid_hub.stl)

c. Body. (PP-AAx2_body.stl)

d. Simple lid. (PP-AAx2_lid.stl)

e. Lid with fixing holes. (PP-AAx2_lid-B.stl)

f. 5 double male pins connectors.

g. Power switch.

4- The pins and switch on the side lids.

5- The switch and cables connection.

a. Power switch.

b. Positive connector.

c. Negative cable.

d. Positive cable.

6- Side lids fixed to the body.

7- Body mounted with the side covers and switch.

8 / 9 / 10 / 11- The battery holder mounted on a robot.

For switch and pins mounting:

12- Connections for the switch and pin side lids. Simply pass the cables through the holes in the body to the back.

a. The leg of de (+ - ) connector. Don't forget to insulate it to avoid short circuits.

b. Wires passing through the body.

13- Bottom view, each wire soldered to each row of pins.

14- Body assembled with switch, pins and side covers.

Print files:

Photos references:

1- Model with a simple lid.

2 . Model with a lid with fixing holes.

3- Parts:

a. Body. (PP-AAx3_body.stl)

b. Lid with fixing holes. (PP-AAx3_lid-B.stl)

c. Simple lid. (PP-AAx3_lid.stl)

d. Simple side lid. (PP-AAx3_side_lid.stl)

e. Side lid with a switch and a pin holder on the bottom side. (PP-AAx2_side_lid_down.stl)

f. Side lid with a switch and a pin holder on the upper side. (PP-AAx2_side_lid_up.stl)

g. (+ -) Connector.

h. (+) Connector.

i. (-) Connector.

j. Power switch.

k. 6 double male pins connectors.

4- The side lids contain the pins and switch, with a cable running through the body.

5- Sides references.

6- Electrical parts:

a. Body.

b. (+ -) Connector.

c. (+) Connector.

d. (-) Connector.

e. Cable.

f. Power switch.

g. 6 double male pins connectors.

7- Rear references:

a. (+ -) Connector.

b. (-) Connector.

c. Cable.

8- Front references:

a. (+ -) Connector.

b. (-) Connector.

c. Cable.

d. Use vinyl tape to insulate the (+ -) connector to prevent short circuits.

e. Double 6-pin male connectors soldered to the cable and switch.

9- Bottom and top views.

10- Side lids in place.

11 / 12 / 13- The battery holder mounted on a robot.

Print files:

Photos references:

1- Model with a simple lid.

2 . Model with a lid with fixing holes.

3- Parts:

a. Body. (PP-AAx4_body.stl)

b. Simple lid. (PP-AAx4_lid.stl)

c. Lid with fixing holes. (PP-AAx4_lid-B.stl)

d. Simple side lid. (PP-AAx4_side_lid.stl)

e. Side lid with a switch and a pin holder on the bottom side. (PP-AAx4_side_lid_down.stl)

f. Side lid with a switch and a pin holder on the upper side. (PP-AAx4_side_lid_up.stl)

g. (+ -) Connector.

h. (+) Connector.

i. (-) Connector.

j. Power switch.

k. 11 double male pins connectors.

4- The side lids contain the pins and switch.

5- Sides references.

6- Electrical parts:

a. Body.

g. (+ -) Connector.

h. (+) Connector.

i. (-) Connector.

k. 11 double male pins connectors.

7- Rear and front references:

g. (+ -) Connector.

i. (-) Connector.

j. Power switch.

k. 11 double male pins connectors.

l. Use vinyl tape to insulate the (+ -) connector to prevent short circuits.

m. Wire that connects the switch to the pins.

9- Bottom and top views.

10- Side lids in place.

11 / 12 / 13- The battery holder mounted on a robot.

Modifying the Connection Pins

First, I tried soldering tinned wire to the shorter legs of the pins, but the problem is that it's quite frustrating to solder the wire to the legs without unsoldering the others. The most practical solution I found was to bend the legs and then solder them together.

In these steps a x4 AA battery holder pins was used as an example, it is the same process for the others.

Photos references:

1- Double male pins connectors.

2- We need:

a. 11 pairs of pins will be used in the 4 AA battery holder.

b. 6 pairs of pins will be used in the 3 AA battery holder.

c. 5 pairs of pins will be used in the 2 AA battery holder, using one side cover to hold the switch and the pins on the other.

3 / 4- To bend and try not to damage the connectors, I used female pin strips as a guide and support. I didn't have double ones, so I used two simple ones side by side, with the whole assembly held in a vise.

5 / 6 / 7 / 8 - To bend the legs, I used a flat screwdriver wide enough to bend two legs at once. It's better to start at one end, bending them outward, and continue with the rest, overlapping the ends with the bend of the previous ones, as shown more clearly in the photo.

9- Now we solder, being careful that they don't make contact between rows to avoid short circuits.

Connecting

First put a small piece of tape to isolate the intermediate connectors from the battery holder.

Connect:

Row 1 → Switch → Battery positive,

Row 2 → Battery negative

Remember well which row corresponds to positive and to negative.

We can use the interior separators of the cover as well as the side of the battery holder itself as reference for positions and distances between the switch and the pins.

Test the continuity of each row and make sure there are no shorts between them.

If you want pins pointing down use the alternative side lid version.

Photos references:

1.1- Cleaning brass paper clips with the electric nail file.

1.2- a. The brass paper clips before polish.

b. After polishing.

1.3- h. Positive connector (+).

i. Negative connector (-).

g. Positive - negative connector (+-).

2- References of the holes in the body for the connectors.

g*. Slightly bend the leg of the (+-) connectors before attach to the body.

3- References for fixing the connectors and the holes.

4- The connectors in their holes.

5- Slightly bend the connector legs again to straighten them.

6- The connectors fixed in their holes.

This improved battery holder design makes powering your projects simple and reliable. With customizable lids, a built-in power hub, and a clean finish, it’s perfect for robotics, prototyping, or any electronics build.

Enjoy building, and share your own modifications!