7ft Chucky Box Photo Booth (Collapsible & Swappable Design)

I wanted to build a life-size 7-foot-tall toy box photo booth for people to take photos in and enjoy.

My goals for the build:

1. Collapsible & portable – easy to store and transport.
2. Weather-resistant – durable enough for outdoor displays for a month or two.
3. Swappable “skins” – easily switch themes, like a Chucky box for Halloween or a Turboman box for Christmas.
4. Fully enclosed – looks like a solid toy box from the outside, with hidden entry doors on the sides.
5. Seamless panels – no gaps between sides for a clean, professional look.
6. Removable top – adjust lighting based on location.
7. Lightweight but sturdy – strong enough to stand up to weather and use, but still manageable to move around.

I accomplished all of that — and even made the vinyl prints available in my Etsy shop if you’d like to make one yourself. Check that out here: https://travisderose.etsy.com/listing/4401977349/7ft-tall-chucky-box-photo-booth-diy-kit

With some basic tools and a few hours, you can make one for your holiday display, movie theater, photo booth, boutique shop, convention booth, or anywhere you want a fun statement piece.

Let’s get into it!

1. (7) 8 ft long 2x2s
2. 3mm thick clear acrylic sheet: https://signworldamerica.com/products/cast-acrylic-clear-4-x-8-x-3-0-mm-1-8
3. Cut to 84" tall x 44" wide
4. I purchased mine from Sign World. They made it easy because they cut it to size for me and delivery was free since I’m within 50 miles of their SoCal location. I’d highly recommend using them or finding a sign company to cut your panels since cutting acrylic can be tricky.
5. 4mm thick corrugated plastic panels: https://signworldamerica.com/products/intepro-corrugated-plastic-silver
6. I chose gray because I thought it looked best as the backdrop inside the box but choose any color you’d like
7. Cut to:
8. (2) sides: 84" tall x 24" wide
9. (1) back: 84" tall x 44" wide
10. (1) top: 44" wide x 24" deep
11. I purchased mine from Sign World and had them cut them to size as well.
12. Vinyl graphics: https://travisderose.etsy.com/listing/4401977349/7ft-tall-chucky-box-photo-booth-diy-kit
13. You can make these yourself and have them printed, or grab my ready-made ones on Etsy
14. Velcro strips: https://www.homedepot.com/p/VELCRO-10-ft-x-1-in-Black-Industrial-Strength-Extreme-Tape-91843/205185844
15. Magnetic catch: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-4-4-lbs-Magnetic-Catch-White-1-Pack-9235997/303007626
16. Extra wide duct tape or Gorilla Tape: https://amzn.to/4p4vJiD
17. Adhesive pull knobs: https://amzn.to/47ENUFP
18. Spray paint to match your corrugated plastic color (gray in my case)
19. Adjustable feet: https://amzn.to/3XhmBuZ

Start by using a knife to cut out the window in the Chucky box vinyl graphic. Use a straightedge for the straight parts and freehand the curves.

If your corrugated plastic and acrylic panels weren’t pre-cut, cut those now:

1. Clear acrylic front panel: 84" tall x 44" wide
2. (2) Side corrugated plastic panels: 84" tall x 24" wide
3. Back corrugated plastic panel: 84" tall x 44" wide
4. Top corrugated plastic panel: 44" wide x 24" deep

If you want fewer reflections on your box, you can use another piece of corrugated plastic for the front instead of acrylic. Just cut the window out of it after applying the vinyl. If you do that, you may want to reinforce it with an extra cross member of 2x2 wood since corrugated plastic isn’t as sturdy as acrylic.

I tested a few hinge ideas but ended up using the simplest and cheapest one possible: duct tape. It worked great and is plenty strong for the lightweight corrugated plastic side panels to swing open like doors.

Use extra wide Gorilla tape. Start by applying half the tape to the long side of the clear acrylic panel. Then place the side corrugated plastic panel next to it where it would fold and apply the tape to the long side of that panel. It’s important to do it this way so there’s enough room for the tape to reach fully when the panels are folded up. Repeat for the other side.

Next build the front wood frame that attaches to the acrylic panel. Even though the box is collapsible, the wood for the front frame stays permanently attached.

You’ll make a frame of 2x2s around the acrylic, leaving a little space at each corner for the 2x2s that go toward the back. I made the frame slightly less deep and shorter than the panels (about 3/4 of an inch) so from the front view you don’t see the top edge of the back panel.

Attach the wood to the acrylic using screws from the front. Countersink them slightly so they’ll be hidden under the vinyl later. Go slow when drilling so you don’t crack the acrylic. I used 2 screws on the top and bottom and 3 on each side. Then add a small block of 2x2 in each corner for extra strength.

Now cut the wood pieces that connect the front to the back. Make them slightly shorter (about 3/4") than the actual length of the side panels so they stay hidden from the front.

Attach them to each corner with one screw each since these are what you’ll remove when breaking it down. That’s plenty strong.

Next, build the back frame the same size as the front and attach it. Then do a quick check with the back and side panels in place to make sure everything aligns well.

Paint the frame to match your corrugated plastic color. Mark where each piece goes before taking it apart so reassembly is easy.

Start by applying the front vinyl graphic. I recommend having three people for this step: two to hold the vinyl while the third applies it.

A firm squeegee or even a credit card helps a ton to smooth it out. Work slowly, pressing from the middle out toward the sides, laying down a little at a time. If you get bubbles, try pushing them out or poke a tiny pinhole to release the air.

I designed the vinyl graphic sheets a bit larger than the panels so they wrap around the edges for a clean finish and to reinforce the duct tape hinge.

For the sides, align the front edge of the vinyl right up against the hinge. Wrap the back edge around the exposed edge of the corrugated plastic panel. Apply slowly and use a squeegee again. Two people is fine for the sides.

Use Velcro strips to make a clasp that keeps the side doors closed when folded up. It’s helpful for moving or storing the box.

Attach adjustable feet to the bottom so you can level it out on uneven surfaces and raise it slightly off the ground if needed.

Stick on the adhesive pull knobs inside so people can close the door when taking photos. Place them far enough in so the sides can still fold in for storage.

Use Velcro strips to attach the back and top panels. Just a small strip at each corner works fine.

For the sides, attach two magnetic catches on each door. I just duct taped over the metal plates instead of gluing which worked well and made the magnets a little less strong, which helps keep stress off the panels when opening.

You now have a 7-foot-tall Chucky Box Photo Booth!

To collapse it for storage, fold the sides over the front (this also protects the vinyl graphics), then lay it down on its face and remove the top and back panels. Unscrew the wooden back frame and side edges (just 8 screws total). It can be disassembled or reassembled by one person and stores fairly flat.

Adding a small LED light strip to the inside top makes a big difference with lighting and reflections, or you can leave the top off for more natural light.

My plan is to make more toy box versions like Turboman or Woody from Toy Story. You can reuse most of the frame and back panels, just remake the front and side panels.

If you make one, I’d love to see it. And if you have suggestions for improvements, let me know.

You can find me at @travisderose on Instagram, YouTube, and TikTok for more projects like this!

-Travis