3D Milling a Wooden Cup...

by Christian Knuell in Workshop > Woodworking

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3D Milling a Wooden Cup...

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My local hardware store recently offered cheap spruce boards.
Well... most of the stuff was actually unusable but the price was too tempting and one of the boards showed a nice grain pattern. After sifting throug the rest of the pallet I finally found 3 boards I liked and decided to try a Finish "Kuksa"...

Modelling...

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  • The cup is modeled in Alibre Design. Quite simple and done in just a few minutes...
  • If you like you can download the model and all other files in the "Projects" section at www.estlcam.com.

Cutting and Glueing Blanks...

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  • To save material and cutting time I've decided to cut slightly oversized blanks rather than machining a rectangular block...
  • The cup is about 85mm high so the best five 18mm blanks are selected and glued together...

Alignment Template...

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  • To make alignment easy the cups outline is cut into the spoil board...
  • Then the whole block is glued to the spoild board with 5 minute expoxy resin...
    Bad Idea??? Well wait until later ;-)

Machining the Upper Side...

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  • The tool I've used for roughing is acutally not long enough to cut down to the bottom.
    But it is long enough to clear the inside and reach a level deep enough to pass the largest dimensions in the X/Y plane so it doesn't matter because we can later flip the part and machine the rest from the other side...
  • Finishing is done with a ball nose end mill...

Releasing the Cup...

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  • So how do we separate the cup from the spoil board?
    Well... many fast curing epoxy resins are heat sensitive and will get soft at temperatures above 100°C. If you put them into the oven and wait a few minutes the cup will just fall off... But check your resin first - I've used "Krick 5 Minuten Epoxy" and "Uhu Sofortfest" will also work but some will not...
  • Another solution is non-waterproof wood glue...

Machining the Other Side...

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  • This time precise placement is absolutely crucial.
    If you're off by 0.1mm you'll have to sand a lot and if you're off by 1mm you can throw the part into the bin...
    So again I've cut a snugly fitting template to align the cup automatically with perfect precision...
  • My template cut is 5mm deep. To get the correct shape I've just created a temporary cut view where the topmost 5mm are removed...

Roughing and Finishing the Other Side...

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And Finally the Handle...

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  • Again a template is cut to align the handle perfectly...
  • For the handle hole I've created a separate STL file showing just the hole and put the origin into its center...

Final Steps...

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  • After machining the cup is sanded to remove the remaining glue and get a nice surface finish...
  • Finally I've applied walnut oil to highlight the woods grain (use only walnut or linseed oil - most other vegetable oils will spoil)...