3D Printed Spinning Top

Let's have some fun! Embrace the inner child, and make some beautiful high-performance tops! Using the unique properties of our metal Pasta we have developed a High-performance top that spins for over 4 minutes with a strong spin, not only does it work great but looks amazing as well! The finishes displayed above include the raw print, a polished top, and a patina'd top our using brass and copper filaments.

• Layer height: 0.15mm (more detailed prints quicken the finishing times quite a bit)
• Perimeters: 4
• Top/Bot layers: 3
• Infill type: Concentric 40%+
• Nozzle: 0.4 mm standard brass & 0.4 mm wear-resistant (a couple of tops shouldn't do much damage to a standard nozzle)

Starting off with the printing procedure we suggest printing with 4 or more perimeters as this is the biggest factor in the final spin time. Printing with the right infill is fairly important as well, using an infill such as rectilinear for instance will distribute the weight inconsistently and make the top wobble violently, we used Prusa's 'Concentric' infill with great success at 40%. As you'll need to completely remove the layer lines for the polished finish, a highly detailed print with a layer height of 0.15mm or less is recommended.

Don't oxidize for a perfectly shiny part, however mixing the two finishes does help hide the layer lines where you're unable to polish effectively.

Tools Needed:

• 150 grit sandpaper or coarse wire brush
• Vinegar
• Hydrogen peroxide
• Table salt
• Spray bottle
• Rag
• Top STL File

Steps:

1. Solution - To oxidize the surface we tried three different solutions starting with a 50/50 vinegar and hydrogen peroxide mixture saturated with salt but found that it tended to lift off the oxidation before drying. Next was a mixture of 3tbsp tap water, 1tbsp white vinegar, and 1tsp iodized salt, this worked, but it was quite slow, we'd recommend trying this method if you want a consistent green rather than the build-up found using this last solution. For our final solution, we decided to substitute hydrogen peroxide for the tap water and it made all the difference, the reaction is quick and noticeable, once it evaporates the finish is splotchy and looks natural (this is the solution used in the last picture).
2. Oxidizing prep - Before we get to the fun part of oxidizing the top we have to do some prep work. The metal flakes are suspended in an HTPLA matrix so we have to expose them using an abrasive. Using the wire brush or sandpaper, agitate the surface until shiny flecks appear. Wipe off the top using a rag and proceed to oxidizing!
3. Oxidizing - The fun part! Place the top halves outside on a flat surface, in the sun or somewhere warm is preferable as it quickens the process of drying, we put them in the oven between squirts at 170F (77C) as it wouldn't let us go any lower, but this is over the glass transition temp so be wary of how long you leave it in or find another way of drying it. Squirt the parts using the mixture, anything that gets hit with it will begin to oxidize. We'd recommend playing with how you cover it as well, having little droplets makes it dry quickly and leaves little individual stains, while soaking it pools up the oxidation and gives a larger stain, but moves around and alters the previous stains. You should see the mixture foam a little as it reacts with the metal. Let it dry and repeat until satisfied.
4. Assembly - You're almost there! You may need to sand down the flat parts of the halves to get a perfect connection without gaps, just rub it on a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface. Clear the female hex holes of debris and push the hex connector into the upper top half, push it on a hard surface to fully seat it. Grab the other half and firmly press the two together. It should be a friction fit but if it seems too loose use a bit of hobby super glue to secure them together.

Don't oxidize for a perfectly shiny part, however mixing the two finishes does help hide the layer lines where you're unable to polish effectively.

Tools Needed:

• Sandpaper 120 - 320 grit
• Polishing Paper 400 - 8,000 grit (Proto-Pasta polishing papers)
• Microfiber cloth
• Acrylic clear coat spray

Steps:

1. Sanding - Starting with the 120 grit, sand down the surface to remove all the layer lines. This is VERY important because we won't be able to get a perfect finish if they aren't gone, it will result in a dull sheen.
2. Polishing - We will use the 6 polishing papers included in Proto-Pasta's, Polishing Kit. Thoroughly work through all 6 grits in order from 400-6,000, buff and clean the surface using a microfiber cloth, the 8,000 grit may smear the surface but your mileage may vary.
3. Assembly - Clear the female hex holes of debris and push the hex connector into the upper top half, push it on a hard surface to fully seat it. Grab the other half and firmly press the two together. It should be a friction fit but if it seems too loose use a bit of hobby super glue to secure them together.