3D Altered Cards

For those who do not mind the destruction of cards for the creation of a sculpture, 3D card alteration might be for you. I have added an altered golem card as an example of a more extensive sculpture, but this Instructable will go over a simpler variation. At the end, an explanation of the Golem will be given in depth because it actually use two different cards.

Remember that for all projects we are balancing effort and payoff. Spending hours to be perfect on something that will be covered up may not be the best use of time.

WARNING: SHARP OBJECTS WILL BE USED AND CAN BE DANGEROUS IF NOT PROPERLY USED.

1. 6-10 of the chosen card(s)

2. scalpel or other sharp cutting tool

3. Cutting mat

4. adhesive (glue stick, super glue, wood glue, etc.)

5. Black colorant (I prefer acrylic paint, but I have found whiteboard marker works for edges.)

6. Some way to press the cards (clamp and blocks, books, cinderblocks, ect.)

When choosing a card the key is to look for depth in the art, and features of the card that you can deicer as being closer and further. You will also need spacer cards that are just boards no image to exaggerate the depth effect. The number of spacers needed is (layers of depth minus 2), for the spirit you will need four spacers.

The spirit Card I broke into 6 layers

1.background solider

2.foreground solider

3.torso of the spirit

4.shoulders and right arm

5.head and sword

6.faceplate (no image just boarder)

The Squirrel card could be broke down into 5 layers

1.the tree

2. feet and tail

3. lower body

4.upper body

5.faceplate

(Note that cards that have images that are translucent like the spirit will be more difficult to create the depth effects, so choose a card that you are comfortable with.)

When cutting out portions of the card you will only leave sections that are from the layers above. As seen in the image the back portion of the card (background solider) will not be touched, because there is no layer below it. Progressively parts are cut away to expose the further back elements of card. The key to a successful layer is that there is at least one or more points of contact with the boarder of the card. It is possible to have elements floating without touching the board but the process becomes more difficult.

The spacer Cards can be any card but you must cut out enough of the card to make sure it is not exposed. The spacers Shown here are left over from the golem alter, but will work none the less.

In culinary school my chef told me a bit of wisdom that holds true "The difference between a novice and a professional is that a professional knows how to hid their mistakes".

If you look at the edges of the cuts you will see white lines which will ruin the depth effect. The brain determines depth based on light and dark spaces. Using your colorant you will coat the edges until all white is covered up. If you use whiteboard markers it will absorb into the white edge and easily wipe off the front of the card. If you use acrylic paint it will easily scrape off the front of the cards when it drys. If you use other colorants you may need to be more careful to not accidentally get it on the front of the card.

You will also notice that I have painted over parts of each card except for the layer of the head and sword. We will paint over portions of each card that would cause the same image to be seen on multiple layers. The black paint will be interpreted as depth of the sculpture instead of ruining the illusion by seeing two faces. This paint does not need to be perfect as long as it covers up enough detail.

The third image you can see that I have painted black around the edge of the boarders. If you stack your layers and notice that you can see the other layers boarders you can either go back and cut the boarders away or if its just barely visible paint it black to hide it.

If you skip this step all the flaws that are present will be visible.

I start by test fitting the layers as seen in the picture of it in my hand. Remember that between each layer there should be a spacer except for the layer before the faceplate layer (seen in the second image). During assembly your choice of glue will effect how your project turns out. Glue sticks will allow you to manipulate the project for longer periods but the overall result will be less ridged. Super glue will make a vary ridge project, but you will have to work fast. I have found wood glue to be a great in-between, you will get manipulation time and the end result is solid. For best results no matter the glue, less is more. We want enough glue to hold it together but not so much it runs out from the boarders on to the image. If you are scared of the runoff make sure your glue drys clear.

After gluing each layer and giving it an initial press to catch any glue runoff, you will let the project dry under some kind of pressure. I used blocks and a clamp but any weight works.

Note I used wood glue and placed a paper towel between the project and wood incase I missed some runoff.

Optional last step is to apply a coating of glue to the edge letting it dry then paint it black to create uniformity on the edge.

Materials used:

4- full card art green land

6- golem tokens

9- spacers (one spacer is used as the face plate)

2- wood disks for base

glue stick for adhesive

acrylic paint as colorant

Layer:

1. An untouched land

2. Spacer

3. land that had all but the ground cut out also a portion of top boarder to allow it to be raised.

4. Full golem body but all background cut out. Back lag was also placed one layer back.

5. Spacer

6. Land with trees

7. Spacer

8. Golem without back arm or leg. ( I wish I would have added the bucket to this layer at the top.)

9. Spacer

10. Golem front arm and leg

11. Spacer

12. Golem front arm (minus a bit of shoulder)

13. Spacer

14. Golem elbow and hand

15. Spacer

16. Golem hand

17. Spacer

18. Land and only trees near the boarder

19. Faceplate