(2000) F-250 Door Lock Actuator Repair
by TylerTsero in Workshop > Cars
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(2000) F-250 Door Lock Actuator Repair
Let's skip all the mumble-jumbo and jump right to the work. Lets go!
WARNING: If your truck is under warranty do NOT do this, as it will VOID your warranty.
you will need a good day or two to do this job. as it can be a hassle.
You'll need to begin by opening the doors up. There are 2 screws holding each door panel on. (9/32 socket will remove them)
The first screw is located under the "control panel" (the part with your window controls/lock controls), you remove this part by lifting the smallest end straight up. once the clip releases, pull up and out to remove the other side.
The red reflector can be removed with a flat head screw driver.
WARNING: If your truck is under warranty do NOT do this, as it will VOID your warranty.
you will need a good day or two to do this job. as it can be a hassle.
You'll need to begin by opening the doors up. There are 2 screws holding each door panel on. (9/32 socket will remove them)
The first screw is located under the "control panel" (the part with your window controls/lock controls), you remove this part by lifting the smallest end straight up. once the clip releases, pull up and out to remove the other side.
The red reflector can be removed with a flat head screw driver.
Once You Have Gotten the Screws Out
Next you want to remove the black column above the door panel. This will pull straight out
Removing the Door Panel
To remove the door panel, Simply Lift straight up. once the clips release, you can pull it away from the door itself. You can now set this aside
Getting the Actuator Out
Let me stop and apologize now. as i didnt have enough hands to take the pictures of everything as I went along. Hopefully I will be able to put it in typing, and you'll be able to understand it and follw the steps -
with the door panel removed, you'll notice a plastic like sheet stuck to the door with stickem's, peel this off, and set it aside sticky side up. From there you will want to remove the outter door handle, 2 nuts hold this unit in (I belive they're 12 mm). the top one can be done with a ratchet, but the other one will require you to reach inside the door with a wrench.
with the door panel removed, you'll notice a plastic like sheet stuck to the door with stickem's, peel this off, and set it aside sticky side up. From there you will want to remove the outter door handle, 2 nuts hold this unit in (I belive they're 12 mm). the top one can be done with a ratchet, but the other one will require you to reach inside the door with a wrench.
Getting the Actuator Out
Now to disconnect the outter door handle unit -
Push it out from inside the door. Then you want to fully disconnect the bars -
The green one requires you to push open a tab (use a flat head screwdriver, it'll make it easier.) Then you need to connect the other one (press both withe tabs in, and pull it out, or if the green tab one is removed, tilt the unit and get the other bar to pull out.
Push it out from inside the door. Then you want to fully disconnect the bars -
The green one requires you to push open a tab (use a flat head screwdriver, it'll make it easier.) Then you need to connect the other one (press both withe tabs in, and pull it out, or if the green tab one is removed, tilt the unit and get the other bar to pull out.
Getting the Actuator Out
Now the inside handle, theres two 9mm nuts holding it on, remove it and push the inside assembly through.
Now to remove the outside screws that hold the actuator in, you may need an inpact wrench to remove them, they use a torx bit (dont remember the size).
Once those are removed you release the wires (theres 2 yellow connectors holding those in, use some pliars to squeeze the outside of them, and push them through, the cable for the inside hadle has 2 of these as well.)
No reach in and get the actuator out, this is hard to explain, as each come out a little different, but work it out around the window guides.
Once it's out, disconnect the wires from it (the gray tab holding these onto the actuator needs to be pushed out, use a flat head screw driver to pry it out)
Now to remove the outside screws that hold the actuator in, you may need an inpact wrench to remove them, they use a torx bit (dont remember the size).
Once those are removed you release the wires (theres 2 yellow connectors holding those in, use some pliars to squeeze the outside of them, and push them through, the cable for the inside hadle has 2 of these as well.)
No reach in and get the actuator out, this is hard to explain, as each come out a little different, but work it out around the window guides.
Once it's out, disconnect the wires from it (the gray tab holding these onto the actuator needs to be pushed out, use a flat head screw driver to pry it out)
With the Actuator Out, Bring It Inside
With the actuator out, bring it inside, we will begine tearing it apart.
WARNING: The rivots will get HOT when drilling them out!
You want to begine by drilling the rivots out (drill them from the mushroomed side). You may find it easier to use some pliars like wirecutters to hold the rivot and casing.
WARNING: The rivots will get HOT when drilling them out!
You want to begine by drilling the rivots out (drill them from the mushroomed side). You may find it easier to use some pliars like wirecutters to hold the rivot and casing.
With the Rivots Out, Begine Prying It Open
using a flat head screwdriver, begin prying the casing open.
Remove the Motor
With the case now open, take the motor out.
Begin opening the motor by prying the tabs up with a small jewlers flat head.
Once the tabs are up, remove the pastic end.
Once the tabs are up, remove the pastic end.
Remove the Resistor and Bend the Tab
Once the motor is open, remove the resisitor (it's a rectangle shaped peice on the side)
You'll notice there was a copper peice behind the resisitor, and one on the front, with the jewlers screw driver, move the one that would be on the back, pry it so it will rest in front of the resisitor.
You'll notice there was a copper peice behind the resisitor, and one on the front, with the jewlers screw driver, move the one that would be on the back, pry it so it will rest in front of the resisitor.
Put the Resisitor Back In
Put the resisitor and make sure each conductor is touching the SAME side of the resisitor.
Put It All Back Together
Use a paper clip bent into a u-shape, and insert it into the holes to hold the brushes open to get the motor back together.
At this step, push the pins back down to hold the motor cap on, grab the outter shell that the motor plugs onto, put the motor on it, go to your truck, plug in the wire that fits that connector on that case part, and try the lock, make sure it spins. if it dosn't then go back and check your work!
Now you'll want to put some white lithium grease in the case, lube all the gears! (blaster brand works the best!).
you'll need to snip the posts down just a little (the ones we broke when opening it up)
Witht the post cut down, put the 2 cases together (being sure everything is lined up). Where those posts were use a small drill bit and drill (drill form the back where the holes are, it's easier!) a small hole through the posts, once they are drilled use #4 sheet metal screws and put the screws in the hole..
To reassemble the door work backwards from how you removed everything from the door, and work backwards to reassemble the ENTIRE door....
Hope this helps some of you!
At this step, push the pins back down to hold the motor cap on, grab the outter shell that the motor plugs onto, put the motor on it, go to your truck, plug in the wire that fits that connector on that case part, and try the lock, make sure it spins. if it dosn't then go back and check your work!
Now you'll want to put some white lithium grease in the case, lube all the gears! (blaster brand works the best!).
you'll need to snip the posts down just a little (the ones we broke when opening it up)
Witht the post cut down, put the 2 cases together (being sure everything is lined up). Where those posts were use a small drill bit and drill (drill form the back where the holes are, it's easier!) a small hole through the posts, once they are drilled use #4 sheet metal screws and put the screws in the hole..
To reassemble the door work backwards from how you removed everything from the door, and work backwards to reassemble the ENTIRE door....
Hope this helps some of you!