1964 Barracuda Taillight Lens

The tail lights for the 64-65 Plymouth Barracuda are very hard if not impossible to find in good non-cracked condition. So we designed, printed and finished these to look like original OEM parts. Using our Creality LD-002H resin printer.

MACHINES :

Computer

Resin printer- Creality LD-002H

UV curing box- Sovol 3D

Water fed grinder- (stain glass grinder)

PAINTS

Rust-Oleum - Clear UV spray, High Gloss

Rust-Oleum - Mirror effect spray

Testers- Metal Silver

RESINS

UV non-yellowing resin- Resione G217 Clear Resin

UV Red resin- Elegoo standard photopolymer resin

TOOLS

Flush cutters

Micrometer

3mm Drill bit

Sand paper (220, 500, 1200)

Screwdriver

Dropper

Paint brush

Flat knife

CHEMICAL

Alcohol Inks- DecorRom inks

Isopropyl alcohol- Vaxxen Labs 99% USP-NF grade

MISCELLANEOUS

Stock screw

Paper towels

Micro SD card and USB adapter

With the completed STL all finished I opened the file in a program named Chitubox. In this program I oriented the part for the printer, supports were added using the auto-support function. l also used a program named Lychee slicer just for fun to see which slicer worked best. (about the same/Lychee is a more stable program) Both files were then loaded on a micro-sd card and ready to print.

Before doing anything shake up the resin, make sure it is mixed very well. The G217 clear resin is very thick so making sure it is mixed is important. The Elegoo standard photo polymer Red is thinner so less shaking is needed. Once I am sure the vat is clean and dry, the resin is poured up to the halfway mark, then the cover is put back on. (When color matching the red, add the Alcohol Inks to the resin in the vat, stir carefully not to scratch the bottom, check color using drop test on a paper towel). Insertthe micro-sd card it to my Creality LD-002H resin printer, scroll threw the menu and select the file to print and watch the magic.

Once the printer is finished (7.5hrs for clears)(6hrs for reds) using latex gloves I unscrew the print bed and use a flat knife to pop the print free of the bed. I am very carful so I don’t break the part or scratch the bed surface . I use a lot of paper towels and Isopropyl Alcohol to keep the resin mess to a minimum.

After I have wiped off and returned the print bed to the machine I’m ready to clip and clean my parts. First, using a flush clutter I carefully remove the supports one by one make sure not to pull them off as this can leave pits and not to nick the part with the tool, as that will leave scratches and gouges. When all the supports are removed I submerge the parts in 99% isopropyl alcohol and scrub with a toothbrush till all the excess resin has been removed, making sure to get into the corners and small spaces so no loose resin remains. Satisfied with the cleaning I place them on a paper towel to dry.

With the part all cleaned up it’s time to make the screw holes the right size by using the drill bit. I drilled each of the three mounting screw holes with the 3mm bit, drilling slightly deeper than the depth of the stock screw, making sure to keep everything straight. Once all the holes are drilled I take the stock screw and hand thread it with a screw driver till it is seated flush in the hole. Back the screw out and your left with a beautiful threaded hole a perfect match for OEM part. (Using Isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush remove any debris left in the holes)

At this point the part is ready to be shaped. The print bed leaves a flat edge support after printing so I use the wet grinder to profile the outer edge. I carefully grind the outer edge round to match the curve of the part (do not push hard, let the grinder do the work.) When I feel the profile is close to what is needed the hand sanding starts. First all sanding is done with CLEAN WATER, starting with lowest grade paper first (220, 500,1200), sand the ENTIRE part front and back before changing grades. When sanding take great care not to remove any of the details such as the serial number and lettering. Keeping your paper clean will make sanding easier. When I think is good I check the part by holing it up to a light, (not sunlight) to see any areas that need more attention. (Check corners and hard to reach spots, use a small sandpaper block to reach tight areas).

After close examination and determined that the part is smooth, round and looks great its time to cure. Making sure the part is clean, place in the curing box for 15-20 minutes no need to flip as it is clear, (flip the reds halfway through.)

When the parts are fully cured they become much stronger and harder, this is nice so they can be set on any surface to paint. (still, don't drop them on the floor) Started off giving the whole cured part a light sanding with the 1200, with water of course. The cured part will sand to a smoother finish after curing and the light sanding will help the part accept the paint better. First DRY THE PARTS I can't say this enough make sure the parts are all the way DRY before each coat of paint. Start with the metallic spray paint, spray it in the dropper and drop some in the center cone while rotating the part till it drys. (it is very runny) repeat on the inner ring with the dropper and keep turning the part till dry to avoid pooling. Let completely DRY. Use a fine detail brush to apply Testors silver paint over the metallic spray paint to give it some body. Let completely DRY. Using the UV-clear coat, spray both sides liberally, taking care to spray from all angles to cover all edges. Let completely DRY. Take the parts once more and give them a light second clear coat and they are done. Once completely DRY the parts snap together and are ready for the road.