1/10th 3D Printed Trophy Truck

I really wanted to start this project just because im kinda cheap. I was looking to get a RC trophy truck but all the options like a UDR, a Kyosho Outlaw Rampage or any other RC trophy trucks are way to expensive. So i decided to build one myself. I'm still will be making it better and stronger the longer i have and whenever a part breaks. Its a really fun project and i have been making it a bit easer to build so this will be more available to anyone with a 3D printer and about 200$ on hand for parts. All the parts are 3d printed excluding the electronics, drive train and the hardware. Those i bought from AliExpress this allowed my to keep the prices low. Sadly i don't have much pictures of the process of me building it but you having the model in fusion 360 as a .F3Z file while help you see how the trophy truck is constructed.

My Youtube channel is JetSlayerJ, there i will post videos of the trophy truck.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqAUqqckCDk54x9eeR1-JEg

1. 3D Printer

First thing you need is a 3d printer, I'm using my Elegoo Neptune 4 that i got pre owned from there website. Its been extremely reliable after me printing with it almost everyday so far making different parts for my trophy tuck and upgraded parts.

2. Electronics

I stuffed in there a Surpass Hobby 60A T Brushless ESC with a Surpass Hobby 3660 4200KV 3.175mm motor. The receiver and controller is a LDARC CT01, connected to that is a generic metal 25kg servo. I added a surpass hobby dual fan heatsink on the motor built that was not really needed because the motor stays surprisingly cool. And the fan is way to loud. Im using Zeee 5200Mah 2s 80c batteries to power it all.

3. Suspension

In the front there is 2 110mm Blue Injora Shocks and a 110mm Injora Mountain shocks. In the rear i put a 2 120mm Blue Injora Shocks and 2 RC Run 123mm Piggyback Shocks. The piggyback shocks are pretty hard to put together good and get the air out of the shocks but they are worth it with there adjustable rebound. I wish i put those on the front too. The rear sway bars are a generic Metal set for the Axial RR10 Bomber, instead of the lower link that comes with it i used a 70mm blue internal shock for a bit of flex.

4. Drivetrain

There is a Generic metal rear axle for a SCX10, connected to that is a 115mm-165mm drive shaft that directly drives into the RC4WD LCG Metal Transmission with the 1:5.9 High speed gearing in it. The rear axle needs 30mm 12mm hex extensions on it. The front of the car has some Steel Front CVD axles for the Traxxas Slash and some other Traxxsas. The wheels all around are some Ysido 6960sc2 110mm tires.

5. Others

For the screws you will need a very big set of m3 screws of varying sizes, for the roll cage some short M1.4 ones around 4mm. You need 10x15x4, 5x10x4 and 6x12x4 bearings. M3 tie rods are needed for the steering system and suspension links. A soldering Iron is also definitely recommend to lightly melt some of the parts to make it stronger.

Main Chassis And Front Suspension

First you should start printing the front suspension with the steering system, main chassis and some mounts for the electronics. The Truck is only 2WD like many real trophy trucks, so you wont have to worry about the front drive system. Both steering knuckles will need the 10x15x4 bearings and 5x10x4 bearings. The front CVD axles can have the main body of it taken off because we only need the hubs to connect to the wheels through the steering knuckles. In the 2 pivots the 6x12x4 bearings will be put into both sides. After this everything else is really just print and screw put together. Also while at this point its good to put in the LCG transmission and motor, including the servo for the steering system.

Rear End And Main Support.

Now for this you will print out the main rear suspension components. all the 3d printed parts will mount onto the main chassis. The suspension links will just secure the tie rods to be screwed in them and the shocks mount. The sway bars can also be installed with the 70mm shocks for dampers to allow for a bit of flex. You don't need to add the dampers for the sway bars bit it will help it look a bit mor realistic. But for pure performance the shocks might dampers might not my needed, or to maybe use smaller ones. With the rear suspension all sorted out the 3d printed chassis brace will help hold the front and rear suspension together so there would be less flex. This will also allow the front suspension to be mounted.

The roll cage is just printing and putting together the cylinders and joints together, i used a soldering iron to melt the screw into the joints so it will hold together properly.

On many parts of this trophy truck i also used a soldering iron to lightly melt some areas of different components like the front suspension links to make it even stronger. It doesn't look the best yet but im continuing to make it better. Its best to follow and to see how the RC looks and would work on hand when looking at it in Fusion 360. The application will allow you to get a part and print it easer because it what i designed the Trophy truck in and all the info you need will be there. If you have any recommendations for i to make this better please tell me in the comments.

I decided to just post this after i seen that there was a competition for making something that moves so on a whim i tried to type this out as best as i can. I never knew this when i was in the beginning stages of building this trophy truck, so i wasn't the most prepared and don't have some of the progress pictures. I'm not the best at explaining things step by step in this format but i hope this guide helps and other people find this to also be able to make a budget trophy truck to have fun with. And maybe get a high enough place to compensate for the money i put into this build.

Enjoy!