1:10 Scale Ikea Strandmon-Inspired Wing Chair for Maileg Mice

Welcome to the world of miniature craftsmanship—where full-sized classics are reimagined as tiny heirlooms, like this mouse-sized armchair inspired by the iconic Strandmon.

This project is a tribute to the timeless IKEA Strandmon wing chair—redesigned at a 1:10 scale for a Maileg mouse. Built with precision and care, it brings together natural, sustainable, and recyclable materials: balsa wood for the frame, pre-felted wool for the padding, and fabric recycled from an old cotton shirt for the upholstery.

While creating this model, I found myself diving into how full-sized chairs are constructed. I’ve always dreamed of upholstering a real chair—just never imagined my first would be in miniature! The project quickly became a study in both structure and softness: the piping, buttons, base zigzag springs, exposed wood frame, and that irresistibly plush, mouse-sized feel.

From precision woodwork to hand-stitched upholstery, this project blends model-making, sewing, and felting techniques into one charming armchair—emphasizing slow crafting, thoughtful detail, and eco-conscious design.

Whether you're a seasoned maker or curious beginner, I hope this project inspires you to create a tiny, cozy chair where imagination can rest its feet.

So pour yourself a warm cup of tea (like our mouse friend) and let’s begin.

Materials and Tools Overview

This section gathers all the tools and materials used throughout the tutorial, grouped by category for easy reference. Every item was chosen to support a hand-crafted, glue-light process using natural, sustainable, and detailed miniature methods.

Frame Construction (Woodworking)

1. 2 mm balsa wood sheet
2. 4×4 mm, 5×5 mm, and 6×6 mm balsa wood strips
3. OLFA art knife with angled, flat and curved blades
4. Ruler and pencil
5. Temporary glue tape (repositionable)
6. Wood glue or eco-friendly adhesive
7. Sandpaper or sanding block
8. Small clamps or popsicle stick with rubber bands

Sewing and Upholstery

1. Recycled cotton fabric (tight-weave, lightweight preferred)
2. Matching cotton thread
3. Pre-felted merino wool batting
4. Basting cotton thread
5. Sewing needles (short, thin, blunt, and curved/bent, huge)
6. Sewing machine (consistent settings throughout) or sewn by hand
7. Sharp fabric scissors and zigzag scissors
8. Pins and small tweezers
9. Iron with silk organza or cotton gauze for pressing
10. Felting needle (for fine shaping of wool)

Upholstery Foundation

1. 100% cotton watercolor paper (acts as a stitching base)
2. Hole punch (for anchor holes in the paper) or sewing machine
3. Needle and thread for creating anchor lines or sewing machine
4. Thick paper or card (for pressing fabric shapes)

Assembly and Final Details

1. Hand-shaped wooden dowels (for legs)
2. Pliers (for bending needles and shaping wire)
3. Black aluminum rod (for optional zigzag spring detail)
4. Small strips of cotton paper (to secure spring detail)
5. Natural wax, light wood oil, or stain (optional leg finish)

From full-sized to miniature: translating the design.

Bridging the gap between the real chair and its miniature version was a bit of a "gray area" for me at first. I had to choose the materials before modeling could begin, which shaped many of the construction decisions later. I knew I wanted the finished chair to feel sturdy and to hold its form over time.

That's why I chose balsa wood for the frame—it's gentle on tools, environmentally friendly, and ideal for delicate scale work. Balsa is also a favorite in the world of aeromodeling, where its light weight and availability in many sizes make it incredibly versatile.

Now, when we turn the finished chair upside down, we can admire the exposed wood—a quiet, elegant reminder of its structure beneath the softness.

The digital miniature frame of the Strandmon wing chair began.

💻 Why Use a 3D Model?

Since I was already familiar with 3D Max, it became a natural workspace for designing the miniature chair. It allowed for accurate measurements and thoughtful visual planning, keeping the final materials in mind. This ensured that all angles and dimensions matched the original chair as closely as possible.

Each part of the 3D model was translated into a 2D outline suitable for cutting from balsa wood. This transition from 3D to 2D was mostly accurate; however, small areas that require finer adjustment can’t always be captured in the simplified outline. These refinements are best addressed during the “dry fit” step, where you'll see where light sanding or trimming may be needed.

Using 3D Max, the proportions of the original IKEA chair were recreated at a 1:10 scale. This digital model helped guide the construction, ensuring the charm of the full-sized piece was preserved.

Most importantly, this process resulted in a printable template for the wood frame—a satisfying bridge between digital modeling and hands-on making.

🖨️ Printable Template Available on Etsy

The 1:10 scale pattern used in this tutorial is available as a digital download to support the many hours of design and refinement behind it.

🖼️ Reference Images

Above is a set of screenshots from the 3D Max model, showcasing the IKEA Strandmon chair from multiple angles. These views help bridge the digital and physical process—providing a reference not just for proportions, but also for understanding how each element fits before cutting and assembling the frame.

🖥️ 📸 Image Descriptions

Here’s what each reference image shows in detail:

Image 1: Concept view of the real IKEA Strandmon chair in dark green. This full-scale reference sets the visual inspiration for the miniature version.

Image 2: Orthographic front, side, top, and bottom views with a 2 mm grid for scale. Also includes a small perspective view to give spatial understanding. You can print this as a reference while working.

1. Front view: Shows the thickness of the armrest, wings, and seat cushion, with accurate button and leg placement.
2. Side view: Reveals the curve of the upholstered piping flowing from the armrest to the top edge of the backrest. Also shows the cushion protruding from the frame, and the cone-like shape and height difference of the legs.
3. Top view: Highlights the T-shirt-like shape of the cushion and helps gauge the padding thickness over the backrest and side wings.
4. Bottom view: Useful for zigzag spring placement and the most accurate leg positioning.

Image 3: Orthographic view from 3D Max showing the fully assembled balsa wood frame.

Image 4: Exploded view showing how the chair’s base, back, and side parts separate into key components.

Image 5: Frame with internal stretchers added. These help support and elevate the cotton backing surfaces.

Image 6: Orthographic view from 3D Max showing the frame with 100% cotton paper covers applied to the back, front base panel, and sides. This helps visualize how the cotton backing is shaped and positioned before stitching lines are added.

📐 Tip:

Print Image 5 (the yellow orthographic views) to use as a clear, scaled reference while gluing your frame pieces. It’s especially helpful for positioning the legs and aligning the zigzag springs. Make sure your printer maintains 100% scale (no fit-to-page adjustments).

The hands-on process began here, working part by part. First came the backrest, followed by the bottom base, and finally the side panels.

🧰 Tools & Materials for This Step

1. 2 mm thick balsa wood sheet
2. 4×4 mm, 5×5 mm, and 6×6 mm balsa wood strips
3. (Tip: If you don’t have pre-cut strips, glue together layers of 2 mm balsa and sand or trim to size using a chisel or flat blade.)
4. Printable template (available on Etsy)
5. OLFA art knife with:
6. Pen-type angled blade (for curves and fine details)
7. Flat blade (for long, straight cuts and light chiseling)
8. Curved blade (for trimming)
9. Ruler and pencil
10. Small clamps or rubber bands
11. Temporary glue tape (repositionable)
12. Wood glue or eco-friendly adhesive

✂️ Cutting the Frame Parts

1. Cut the Template
2. Cut each shape from the paper, leaving a 2–4 mm margin around the edges for easier handling.
3. Attach the Paper to the Balsa
4. Apply small dots or strips of temporary glue tape to the back of each pattern piece. Gently press them onto the balsa sheet, aligning the long side of each shape with the wood grain where possible.
5. Cut the Balsa Pieces
6. Use the OLFA art knife to cut around each template shape:
7. Use the angled blade for rounded corners and detailed curves

🪚 Tip: Start by scoring across the grain in multiple light passes before cutting along the grain. This reduces tearing and ensures cleaner edges.

🧩 Assembling the Frame

1. Dry Fit the Parts
2. Arrange all the cut pieces loosely to test the fit. Adjust the edges to ensure clean angled joints by trimming small bits of excess wood with a straight and curved blades knife.
3. Glue the Frame Together
4. Apply wood glue to the connecting surfaces. Use small clamps or rubber bands to hold the parts together as the glue dries. Take care to maintain proper angles—this will impact the shape and symmetry of the final chair.

🧷 Tip: When gluing angled joints, use a support block (a small balsa wedge or jig) to create flat surfaces for clamping.

1. Let it Dry Completely
2. Allow the glue to fully cure before handling the frame further. Once it sets and the structure feels stable, you're ready to move on to the next magical layer—adding the foundation for soft wool padding and cotton-backed stitching.

🖼️ Images for This Step

Image 1: The printable paper pattern for the back frame, cut and ready to be glued onto balsa wood.

Image 2: Cutting along the printed template lines with an OLFA knife—paper is lightly glued to the balsa sheet.

Image 3: Two thin balsa strips glued together to form a thicker piece. This helps reach sizes like 5×5 or 6×6 mm.

Image 4: Clamped balsa strips drying after gluing to reach custom thickness.

Image 5: An alternative clamping method using hand pressure for quicker adhesion of layered strips.

Image 6: Cut parts for the back frame, with a wooden jig used for supporting angled gluing.

Image 7: Back frame assembled and dry-fit to test alignment before gluing.

Image 8: A close-up of the back frame being shaped with a precision knife for trimming the back access wood before final assembly.

Image 9: Finished base part of the frame, showing layered construction and accurate corner curves.

Image 10: Both side panels cut and laid out flat, showing internal support strip placements.

Image 11: Side panels flipped to show interior side; support strips are being glued using simple clothespin clamps.

Creating secure holes and stitch bases for a smooth upholstery finish.

This step introduced one of the most essential innovations in the project. In full-sized furniture, upholstery is often secured with staples or pins—but balsa wood is far too delicate for such force. So I designed a softer alternative: "anchoring holes and stitched lines," allowing the upholstery to be sewn directly onto the chair by hand.

These anchors are created by punching small holes into 100% cotton watercolor paper, which is then glued to the balsa wood frame. This paper is much stronger than typical pulp-based paper and offers a reliable, flexible base for attaching both wool padding and fabric without damaging the structure. You’ll find it in the watercolor section of most art supply stores.

Be sure to leave all joining surfaces clean and free of cotton paper or stitching—this is essential to ensure secure gluing during the final assembly.

🧰 Tools & Materials for This Step

1. 100% cotton watercolor paper,
2. Needle, matching to fabric cotton thread
3. Hole puncher
4. Sewing machine or tracing wheel tool (wheel with sharp spikes)
5. Basic sewing tools.
6. Wood glue
7. Small clamps or popsicle stick with rubber bands

🔍 Different Approaches for Each Part

Each of the four main frame sections—the bottom, back, and two sides—has slightly different needs (it will be easier to understand this step from the images):

1. Bottom Part: The stitching lines here are straightforward, running along the top side of the frame and on the front panel with the angled corner.
2. Backrest Part: This section includes both punched holes for the wool batting and stitched anchor lines that follow the subtle contour of the backrest. I added the stitch lines only on the back side, because the front-facing fabric is sewn directly to the thick wool batting. It’s easier—and tidier—to stitch the final upholstery onto these anchoring lines instead. Don’t forget to include a line of holes for the future button tufting.
3. Side Parts: The most challenging because of their curves and corners. It’s important to glue the paper in the exact position, leaving clear wood areas where other parts will later be attached.

This separate approach for each part ensures that the final upholstery is neat, secure, and properly fitted—even on these tricky small-scale details. It blends beautifully with the wool padding, achieving a professional finish in the miniature version without relying on staples as in real-life upholstery.

By completing this step, you've laid down the invisible but essential framework that will hold the wool and final fabric beautifully in place. It’s a quiet craft—delicate, detailed, and deeply rewarding.

🖼️ Image Note: The following images illustrate key steps:

1. Image 1: The back side of the cotton paper backing with punched holes for stitching.
2. Image 2: Front view of the backrest, showing punched cotton paper aligned with the balsa frame.
3. Image 3: Close-up of the front base corner with stitched cotton paper, unglued.
4. Image 4: The stitched cotton front panel fully glued to the base frame.
5. Image 5: Front panel stitched but not yet glued in place.
6. Image 6: Top strips of the base section stitched and prepared for future fabric upholstery.
7. Image 7: Dark wool batting is pinned to the backrest over cotton paper with pre-sewn anchoring stitches.
8. Image 8: Inner side of the chair side panel with neatly stitched and glued cotton paper in place.
9. Image 9: Outer side of the same chair side panel, showing how stitching contours follow the curved edge.
10. Image 10: The cotton paper is glued on one side only to leave space for future alignment.
11. Image 11: Clamping the glued cotton paper into place using clothespins.
12. Image 12: Wet glue applied to the inside of the frame, ready to attach cotton paper.
13. Image 13: Layout of individual stitched paper components ready to be glued onto the wooden side panel.

5. Wool Padding and Hand-Stitched Upholstery

Shaping softness: Building form and applying fabric in one seamless step.

With your stitch lines and anchoring structure securely in place, it's time to begin padding the chair—turning hard angles into gentle contours—and directly applying the upholstery. This step combines wool padding and fabric stitching, working hand-in-hand to shape and smooth each section of the miniature chair.

The piping came first—it was the detail that sparked the entire upholstery process. I knew it would add realism and became a defining feature of the chair’s design. I began by adding it to the cushion, using it as a test run before working directly on the frame. Personally, I feel the cushion turned out a bit too large—it doesn’t quite match the proportions I was aiming for. In future versions, I’d consider trimming it slightly to better fit the chair’s scale.

A note on material choices: Fine merino wool was chosen for the batting because it offers a wonderfully soft, plush feel. It also repels moisture—helpful for keeping the wooden frame dry and preserved over time.

For the upholstery, I initially grabbed an old shirt without much thought. But I’ve since learned that a lightweight fabric would have been a better fit. The mid-weight fabric I used was a bit tricky, especially around small corners and curves.

🧶 Materials & Tools

1. Pre-felted wool batting (preferably natural fine merino wool)
2. Recycled cotton fabric (thin, tight-weave)
3. Matching cotton thread
4. Sharp scissors, zigzag scissors
5. Sewing needles (thin, middle, huge and angled)
6. Felting needle (for final wool shaping)
7. Pins and tweezers
8. Basting thread and silk organza (optional for pressing)
9. Sewing machine (same settings for all the project)

🪡 Strategy by Frame Section

Each major frame part—the back, bottom, and sides—should be padded and upholstered as a separate unit before final assembly. This ensures precision, allows for hand-stitching along anchor lines, and keeps glue-free joinery clean.

🔖 Important: No glue is used for wool or fabric. All materials are secured with stitches alone. When joining the cotton paper to the fabric, a blunt needle works best—it slips between threads without catching the fabric weave. For very shaped areas, a bent needle is helpful. I made mine by bending a standard needle with pliers (and broke a few in the process—cheaper ones are easier to bend and sacrifice).

📏 Back Panel

1. Cut wool into a rectangle that matches the shape of the back in layers.
2. Stitch wool into place using pre-punched holes in the cotton anchor paper.
3. Needle-felt the surface lightly to refine bulk.
4. Cut fabric slightly larger than the back shape. Sew the piping and add a stitching line around the pattern. This will be used for tucking the fabric to the anchoring stitching line.
5. Pin the fabric to the frame.
6. Sew in the buttons with a huge needle(knots from around 7 strands of thread).
7. Sew the fabric to the wool using small hidden stitches along the anchor thread.
8. Pull gently to smooth fabric, adjusting tension stitch by stitch.

📦 Bottom Part

1. To help form the initial contours of the fabric, you can use a thick piece of paper to press and guide the shape before stitching.
2. Use one layer of thin batting.
3. Finish the corners with blanket stitch.

Zigzag Spring Detail (Optional):

For added realism, tiny zigzag springs can be made by bending a thin aluminum rod into wavy shapes. I used two metal crochet hooks for this, or you can use special pliers. The zigzags are glued in place using small strips of cotton paper across the top side of the base part. Once dry, the upholstery fabric is sewn directly over them, creating the illusion of internal support.

🌀 Side Panels

1. The most complex: Create the piping from bias cut fabric, sew it to the anchoring sewing line on the side frame.
2. Baste the wool to the outer side of the fabric. Stitch wool into place in small sections, especially around tight corners.
3. Create the inner panel from three fabric pieces. Stitch gatherings at the armrest and top edge. Baste wool padding on the inside with seam allowance tucked in. Sew to the inner side of the frame, then along the piping.
4. Add a small padded panel to the front of the armrest and stitch in place.
5. Use tweezers to shape seams. Tuck or trim excess fabric as needed before final stitches.

🧸 Cushion

1. T-shaped cushion is sewn with two parallel pipings at the front.

By the end of this step, your chair will feel real—soft, shaped, and fully wrapped in miniature textiles, without a drop of glue.

🖼️ Images for This Step

Image 1: All Upholstered Parts Laid Out

All parts are shown upholstered separately: the backrest, side panels, base, cushion, and armrests. This overview gives a visual summary of how each unit is handled before the final assembly.

Image 2: Padding the Backrest with Wool

Three steps show the wool batting being laid in layers, shaped, and pinned. You can see how thickness is built gradually to match the ergonomic form.

Image 3: Drafting the Fabric Pattern

Shows a backrest beside its drafted paper pattern and outlined fabric piece—an essential planning stage before any stitching begins.

Image 4: Preparing for Piping and Contour Lines

This basting stage defines the contour lines and creates a base for the piping. It shows the fabric folded, marked, and hand-basted.

Image 5: Piping on the Backrest and Stitched Contour Lines Around the Piece

The same fabric after contour stitching is complete. The crisp line of the piping can be seen here, it gives the miniature the feel of a real piece of furniture.

Image 6: Wool-padded Backrest with Fabric & Buttons Ready

Shows the wool-padded backrest next to the basted seam allowances onto the cover and prepared threads for button tufting.

Image 7: Hand-Stitching the Buttons

Buttons (made from knotted thread) are stitched through the fabric and batting. Pins hold everything taut for alignment.

Image 8: Buttons Secured

A close-up of the backrest with all tufting finished and fabric tensioned smoothly into place.

Image 9: Rear Side Fabric Closed

The back panel is turned, hand-stitched, and closed with a neat seam.

Image 10: Sewing the Front Fabric to Batting

Fabric is basted and aligned around the side frame and padding, sewn to the padding.

Images 11–19: Additional Upholstery Steps

A full sequence of detailed images for the bottom part, piping, armrest covering, zigzag springs, and side panel stitching. These visuals support the written instructions and show the construction process from inside-out.

Next, we move to final assembly and attaching the legs—bringing all the upholstered parts together into a finished miniature wing chair.

Pulling it all together—legs, alignment, and the final miniature masterpiece.

With all parts now padded and upholstered, it's time to bring everything together into a single, cohesive chair. This stage requires patience and precision, as it's where the individual components take on their final form and character.

🪡 Assembly Strategy

1. Dry-fit all parts first to check alignment and ensure no tension distorts the form. Make sure no fabric covers any area that should be glued wood-to-wood.
2. Start by attaching the back panels to the bottom base. Apply glue only to wood contact points and clamp firmly.
3. Follow by attaching the side backrests, gluing them one at a time with careful alignment.
4. Insert the cushion last, gently and with minimal pressure. This prevents misalignment of the fabric or armrests and preserves the integrity of the delicate zigzag spring imitations beneath.

🪵 Making the Legs

The legs are crafted from small wooden dowels and hand-shaped into tapered cylindrical forms. Carve and refine them using a sharp blade or fine sandpaper. The front legs are slightly longer than the back legs to reflect the gentle backward tilt of the original design.

1. Once shaped, glue them into pre-drilled holes in the base. Refer to the underside orthographic image for accurate placement.
2. Ensure all legs are level before the glue sets.

🎨 Optional Finishing Touches

1. Apply a natural wax or light oil to the legs for a soft, satin finish.
2. Or stain the legs to match other miniature furniture or give them a custom tone.
3. Add a small felt pad or rug under the chair for a charming, realistic setting.

With this final assembly complete, your 1:10 scale miniature armchair is ready for its new home. Whether it joins a dollhouse, a collector’s shelf, or a cozy storytelling display, it’s a handcrafted showcase of traditional techniques—miniaturized with care, precision, and heart.